We love our trees in Southwest Kansas! Trees are an important part of landscaping and also add value to our homes. A healthy tree, that is properly shaped can help increase its longevity. Pruning out weak and dead branches can help the tree withstand strong winds and decrease the chances for insect damage and disease. In this blog post, we will be covering the basics on properly pruning trees that are do-it-yourself tasks. If you have large, older trees, it is recommended to hire a professional arborist for safety.
First off, let’s take some time to review the science within the tree. The main parts of tree are the roots, stem, branches and leaves. When looking at the stems and larger branches, the cross section includes the outer layer of bark, phloem, cambium, sapwood, heartwood, and the pith.
The important layers for pruning include the phloem and cambium. The phloem transports nutrients up the tree from the roots to the leaves. The cambium is responsible for healing deep wounds. Cambium cells should never be allowed to dry out. They are killed easily by tar, turpentine and creosote.
The most common error I see is improper location and angle of the prune cut. Just remember – Location, location, location! Cutting to close to the trunk could kill off parts of the tree because of excessive damage to the cambium. Cutting too far out, the callus (part of the cambium) will not be able to grow around the wound to heal it.
Smaller twigs should be cut ¼ of an inch above a bud and slanted away from it. Short stubs left will never heal properly and encourage disease and insect infestations.
Smaller branches should be cut flush with the parent branch. Make sure to have someone hold branches to prevent bark stripping.
Larger branches that are too heavy to hold require three cuts to prevent bark stripping.
For maintenance pruning, the following areas should be targeted.
- Dead, diseased or unsightly branches
- Water sprouts, near the ground or on the trunk
- Branches that grow towards the center
- Branches rubbing causing damage to the bark
- Narrow V crotches (weaker joints)
- Central leader competition branches (on single stem trees)
- Branches getting near electrical or phone lines
- Lower branches for breezes, easy mowing, to gain light to grow grass or aesthetics
- Control size
- Overcrowding conditions
Take into consideration that each tree has its own shape depending on the species. Take the time to call the Extension Office if you are not sure of your tree’s natural shape. These natural growth habits increase the durability of the tree that mother nature gave it. Trying to re-shape a tree only causes more harm than good.
Personally speaking, pruning at any time is better than not pruning at all. Deciduous trees can be pruned at any time, but the most ideal time is during dormancy. However pruning while the tree is in leaf can give you the opportunity to better visualize the effect that it will have on tree shape. It is also easier to see when 1/3 or less of the tree has been removed. Removing more than 1/3 in a year could severely injure or kill the tree.
Hopefully this gives you a basic understanding on maintenance pruning. A novel could and likely has been written on pruning trees. I also hope this discourages you from also topping trees. Check out this post from Johnson County Extension on tree topping. If you have more questions, give me call at the office or check out K-State Research & Extension publication called “All About Pruning” that covers more in-depth details on all pruning.
