Earlier this year, Extension started offering a one-hour webinar series for free! It is called the K-State Garden Hour and was offered weekly throughout the growing season. This fall, the program is slowing down to a monthly webinar hour. The webinar’s include a 45-minute presentation and 10-15 minutes for questions from live participants. Participants can register online to view the live sessions, but all sessions have been recorded.
Tag: Trees
What’s up with the Elm Trees?
Typically, around this time of year I will get a few phone calls regarding Elm Trees. Most folks believe their Elm tree is dying. As much as I would actually prefer our Siberian elms to go away, as they do offer plenty of shade, they are not dying! It pretty hard to really kill one of these trees, and you will typically find them growing just about anywhere! But back to why they appear to be dying this time of year. The culprit is the Elm Leaf Beetle.
The mature elm leaf beetle are approximately 1/5-1/4 inches in length and have a yellow to dull green appearance with a black strip on each side of the wing cover and one in the middle that extend the length of the body. In addition, there are two black spots on both sides of the thorax (middle portion), and two distinct short black lines just behind the thorax.
These insects feed on the leaves. Adults feed on the entire leaf, while larva feed on the underside of the leaving causing the leaves to appear brown to our eyes as the eat the green out of the leaf. Upon closer inspection, the leaves have a skeletonized brown appearance. Usually it is the second generation feeding where we can begin to notice the damage, unless the tree is heavily infested in the spring.
In most cases, the elm trees have plenty of time to photosynthesize over the summer and can afford to lose their leaves a little earlier than we would prefer. In the spring, the tree leaf out again and the cycle will continue.
In severe cases, or for those that want green leaves to the end of the growing season, insecticides can be applied. Systemic insecticides can be applied to the soil where they are absorbed by the roots and translocated to the leaves that will be fed upon by elm leaf beetle larvae and adults. Applications should be made in early spring before new growth emerges. Keep soil moist to increase absorption of the systemic insecticide by the root system, and promote translocation throughout the tree. Always read product labels carefully to determine those insecticides that can be used against elm leaf beetles.
Watering During a Drought: Trees & Shrubs
Many times I hear from clients “I water my grass, that’s enough for my trees.” Even in a year with sufficient rainfall, watering your grass is not enough water for a tree. Successfully established trees and shrubs have a moisture requirement just like any other plan. And yes, to some extent they can pull water from turf watering, but the overall health of these plants is at a higher risk.
Our past Office Professional, originally from Missouri, always commented on how much we liked our trees in Meade County and the extent a client was willing to take to keep a tree healthy in Southwest Kansas. She was right, it takes time and effort for a large tree, which cannot be replaced quickly.
First we need to consider the plants that serve a legitimate purpose as a landscape element by providing shade, privacy or curb appeal. Then look at outlying plants that probably don’t have as much importance, these may be allowed to stress more, even to the point of going into summer dormancy. But don’t overlook these plants, especially if they are not native.
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Devastation of Bagworms
These pesky little insects are usually found on evergreen trees and shrubs. If left untreated, the insect will increase in population each year, eventually causing the defoliation of the plant.
In May each year, bagworms are just beginning to emerge from their eggs that have overwintered. The larva will continue to hatch through early June depending on weather conditions. The larva feeds on the plant foliage. Once they are 3 to 6 mm in length, they will produce a strand of silk to hang from, to disperse them to other near-by hosts.
Deciduous Trees: Basic Maintenance Pruning
We love our trees in Southwest Kansas! Trees are an important part of landscaping and also add value to our homes. A healthy tree, that is properly shaped can help increase its longevity. Pruning out weak and dead branches can help the tree withstand strong winds and decrease the chances for insect damage and disease. In this blog post, we will be covering the basics on properly pruning trees that are do-it-yourself tasks. If you have large, older trees, it is recommended to hire a professional arborist for safety.
First off, let’s take some time to review the science within the tree. The main parts of tree are the roots, stem, branches and leaves. When looking at the stems and larger branches, the cross section includes the outer layer of bark, phloem, cambium, sapwood, heartwood, and the pith.
The important layers for pruning include the phloem and cambium. The phloem transports nutrients up the tree from the roots to the leaves. The cambium is responsible for healing deep wounds. Cambium cells should never be allowed to dry out. They are killed easily by tar, turpentine and creosote.
The most common error I see is improper location and angle of the prune cut. Just remember – Location, location, location! Cutting to close to the trunk could kill off parts of the tree because of excessive damage to the cambium. Cutting too far out, the callus (part of the cambium) will not be able to grow around the wound to heal it.
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