Rawlins County

Flooding Damage

Q: We have been getting more rain lately than we are used to, what potential effects is all the standing water having?
A: Waterlogged soils push out oxygen that roots need to survive. Some plants have mechanisms to provide oxygen to the roots even under saturated conditions but most of our vegetables and flowers do not. The longer these plants are subjected to saturated soils, the more likely damage will occur. Usually, as long as water drains away within 24 hours, the impact on plant health is minimal. However, shallow, stagnant water under hot, sunny conditions can literally cook plants, reducing survival time to as little as a few hours.

In regards to the safety of eating produce from a garden that has been flooded, standing water should not cause a safety problem as long as the aboveground portions of the plant remain healthy. Do not use produce from plants that have yellowed. Also, using produce flooded with water contaminated with sewage (lagoon) or animal manure can also be dangerous. The safest approach is to discard all garden crops that have been in contact with such water. Certainly, leafy vegetables should always be discarded. However, you may eat fruit from such crops as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, sweet corn, squash, cucumbers, and similar vegetables that develops after the waters have subsided as long as the fruit is not cracked or soft. Always wash vegetables thoroughly before eating.

Under the cool conditions of early spring, turfgrasses can often survive several days of flooding. However, during hot, sunny conditions with shallow, stagnant water, lawns may be damaged quickly. This situation often occurs when shallow depressions in a lawn allow water to pool. Note such areas and fill in with additional soil once the waters have subsided. Trees differ markedly in their ability to withstand flooding. Some trees have mechanisms in place to provide oxygen to the roots of plants with water saturated soils and others do not. However, most trees will maintain health if flood waters recede in 7 days or less. It also helps if water is flowing rather than stagnant as flowing water contains more oxygen. If the roots of sensitive trees are flooded for long periods of time, damage will occur including leaf drop, iron chlorosis, leaf curl, branch dieback, and in some cases, tree death. Try to avoid any additional stress to the trees this growing season. Ironically, one of the most important practices is to water trees if the weather turns dry. Flooding damages roots and therefore the root system is less efficient in making use of available soil water. Timely waterings are vital to a tree’s recovery.

Soils often become compacted and crusted after a heavy rainfall. This also can restrict oxygen to the roots. Lightly scraping the soil to break this crust will help maintain a healthy root system and therefore, a healthy plant. Be careful not to cultivate too deeply as shallow roots may be damaged. If you think the excessively wet weather will continue, bedding up the rows before planting even just a couple of inches, will improve drainage and allow for better aeration.

Straw Bale Gardening

Q: We have lots of community interest in straw bale gardening, so I did a little research and here is what I found!
A: What better place to try this than in Kansas where straw is so abundant. First, some pointers.
It is best to use the “small” straw bales that are about 2 feet high and 3 feet long. Place the bale on edge so the twine doesn’t rot. Bales can be placed anywhere including concrete or asphalt, just make sure there is plenty of sun and watering is convenient. Bales must be conditioned before use. Water the bales and keep them wet for 3 days. The bale will start to heat up as it breaks down. On days 4, 5 and 6, sprinkle fertilizer on the top of each bale with 1 cup of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) or ½ cup of urea (46-0-0). Water the fertilizer in. This speeds the decomposition process. On days 7, 8 and 9, continue to sprinkle fertilizer on each bale but cut the amount in half. Stop fertilizing on day 10 but keep the bale moist. Check for heat on the top of each bale for each day after day 10. When the temperature drops to below 100, the bale can be planted.
There are two methods of planting. The first is the Pocket Method. Make a hole for each plant several inches deep and fill with growing medium. You can also try the Flat Bed Method. Cover the top of the bale with 3 to 4 inches of growing medium. The growing medium can be well-aged manure, compost or potting soil. With either planting method it is possible to plant two cantaloupe, or two cucumbers, or three to four pepper plants, or two to three tomato plants.
Watering will be the most challenging aspect of management. The straw will dry quickly. A drip irrigation system on a timer can work well but may take some time to set up. Gardeners may also use soda bottles or milk jugs to water by poking drip holes in the lid, filling with water and then turning upside down next to the target plant. This information was taken from an excellent publication from Washington State University that includes much more detail as well as images. See http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/FS109E/FS109E.pdf .

Rabbits in the Garden

Q: Rabbits seem to be eating my freshly planted garden as fast as I can get it in the ground. What can I do?
A: Rabbits in gardens are a perennial problem because of the wide variety of plants they can feed on. This time of year, they gravitate to young vegetables and flowers. But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers, and some peppers. The question is how do you protect other, more susceptible plants? Fencing provides a quick and effective control method. The fence does not need to be tall; 2 feet is sufficient for cottontails. But the mesh must be sufficiently fine (1 inch or less) so young rabbits will not be able to go through it. Support for the fence can be supplied by a number of products, but electric fence posts work well.
Often fencing is not an acceptable choice because it affects the attractiveness of the garden. Other ways to control rabbits including repellents, trapping and shooting. Repellents are often suggested for control but often do not last long and require frequent reapplication. Also, many are poisonous and cannot be used on plants or plant parts destined for human consumption. Live traps can be used to collect and move the rabbits to a rural area several miles from where they were trapped. A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together with a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.
Another possibility is to use a motion-activated sprinkler. These are attached to a garden hose and release a short burst of water when motion is detected. Contech, Orbit and Havahart are suppliers and each is advertised as protecting up to at least 1,000 square feet. Shooting is another possibility when it is safe and legal to do so.

What’s Up With Rhubarb?

Q: Someone gave me a rhubarb plant, what do I need to know about transplanting, growing and eating this crop?
A: Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that is grown for its large, thick petioles or leafstalks. It is known for its acid flavor and used in sauces, jellies and pies, either alone or in combination with other fruits.
Rhubarb grows well in many soil types, but it thrives in rich, well-drained loam soils. In most Kansas soils, generous applications of organic matter should be incorporated before rhubarb is planted. Using 50 to 100 pounds of barnyard manure or a similar organic material per 100 square feet of garden area is beneficial. Because rhubarb is a perennial, it should be located to the side of the garden or in an area not disturbed by yearly tilling. An established planting should be fertilized each year using 4 to 5 pounds of 1-10-5 (or the equivalent) per 1,000 square feet broadcast over the plot and worked into the soil early in the season before growth begins. Adding 2 to 3 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 square feet over the plot after the spring harvest season will provide nitrogen for good summer foliage growth.
Rhubarb should be planted in the early spring. In Kansas, the suggested planting time is mid March to early May, about the same time as Irish potatoes. Rhubarb is propagated by planting pieces of older crowns or roots. The pieces are taken from dormant three-year or older crowns. The crowns may be purchased from garden dealers or seed dealers, or dug from a healthy, established planting during the dormant season. If you dig your own crowns, split them into pieces with each containing one large “eye” or bud. Each crown should produce four to eight pieces suitable for planting. Crowns should be kept moist until planted and should be solid, not spongy. Plant rhubarb in a shallow trench so each bud is about one half to 1 inch below the soil surface. Plants should be 2 to 3 feet apart in the row, and if more than one row is planted, 4 to 5 feet between rows. Fill in the trench to cover the crowns and firm the soil around them. Make sure there is not a “depression” along the row so excess water drains away quickly. Compared with most other vegetable crops, relatively few varieties of rhubarb are available. The two varieties that have been used most widely in Kansas are Canada Red and McDonald.
Rhubarb will lose productivity after 5-10 years, with very productive plantings requiring more frequent rejuvenation. Dig and divide crowns in the early spring by cutting older crowns into sections with a sharp cleaver or axe, leaving at least one bud or eye on a root section. Probably no other single factor affects home gardeners’ success with rhubarb more than harvesting too much or too long. Rhubarb is a perennial crop, and its vigor and strength depend on stored food reserves that it accumulates during the previous season. For this reason, it is good to limit harvest the first several years. Rhubarb should not be harvested at all the first year, and only a few stalks should be taken the second year to insure a well-established planting that will last for many years.
Some years, it is common for rhubarb to produce a large, yellow seedstalks during the growing season. Seedstalks should be broken off and removed as soon as they form. Removing seedstalks will cause more food to be stored in the crowns and roots encouraging more leaf growth.
CAUTION: Rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid that may cause lesions in the mouth if eaten, so only the stalks or petioles should be eaten. After harvest, rhubarb stalks should be stored in the vegetable storage area of the refrigerator and kept moist until used.

Proposed Changes to Private Pesticide Applicator Licensing

Q: I have heard of new rules for private pesticide applicators. What changes are potentially being made?
A: The EPA has proposed new rules for those getting Private and Commercial Pesticide Applicators licenses. The final set of rules will likely not take affect for some time, however the time to comment on the proposed rules is now until November 23, 2015.
Among the proposed changes, a few to note are:
• Establishment of a first time-ever nation-wide minimum age of 18 for certified applicators and persons working under their direct supervision. Currently there is no age limit for private applicators in KS.
• Requirement for all applicators to renew certifications every 3 years. Currently this is every 5 years for private applicators in KS.
• Requirement for additional specialized certifications for private applicators using high-risk application methods (fumigation and aerial). Currently there is no specialized certification for this in KS.
• Requires first time annual safety training and increased oversight for persons working under the direct supervision of a certified applicator. Private applicators will be required to pass a written, closed book-proctored exam for certification. Currently private applicators exams are open book in KS.
• The credit hours or CEU’s required for applicators will increase: Private applicators-6 general core CEU’s + 3 CEU’s per category of certification (currently no training is required for Private applicators in KS). Commercial applicators-6 general core CEU’s + 6 CEU’s per category of certification (currently 1 core hour is required +7 per category for most categories in KS)
To read more go to http://www2.epa.gov/pesticide-worker-safety/epa-proposes-stronger-standardspeople-applying-riskiest-pesticides. If you wish to comment, follow the link to docket number EPA-HQ-OPP-2011-0183.

Deep Cleaning Bakeware

Q: I am gearing up for lots of holiday baking, but have noticed a residue on my cookware. Any secrets to starting my holiday baking season with clean cookware?
A: Throughout the year, cooking certain types of food, such as recipes with cheese, gravies, eggs or pie fillings, can leave baked-on residue or food stains on your favorite dishes. In addition to having “recipe residue,” your non-stick cookware can also be susceptible to stains from minerals in water or excessive heat.
If you are using glass or ceramic bakeware, try soaking them in a solution of liquid dishwashing soap, a tablespoon of baking soda and water. You can use a plastic scouring pad with a mild abrasive cleaner or baking soda, but be sure to avoid metal scouring pads as these may scratch the surface.
If you are using non-stick cookware, plan on re-conditioning the pan with cooking oil or shortening after a deep clean and before its next use. Fill the pan with a solution of one quart water + one quarter cup coffee pot cleaner OR three tablespoons of oxygen bleach. Heat to simmering for fifteen to twenty minutes. Then wash, rinse and dry as normal.
For pots and pans, make a solution from one quart of water + two to three tablespoons cream of tartar, lemon juice or vinegar. Fill the pan and boil for ten to fifteen minutes. After cooling, scour the pan lightly with a steel wool soap pad.
Happy baking!

Will nitrates be a problem in winter feedstuffs this year?

Q: Will nitrates be a problem in winter feedstuffs this year?

A: Generally we associate the danger of high levels of nitrates in forages such as sorghum-sudangrass, forage sorghum, sudangrass, proso millet or foxtail millet with drought. During the normal growth process, the plant brings nitrogen in through the roots and uses it to create new plant tissue. If some type of stress prevents or severely slows that process, then the nitrate begins to accumulate in the plant. The stress could be from drought, fertility imbalance, hail or a freeze. This can be a temporary condition depending on the timing of the stressor and conditions that follow. The nitrate that is present at the time of harvest or a killing freeze will remain in the plant as it dries. If livestock consume enough of the high nitrate feed it can cause abortion or death.

It is hard to make any global statements about potential toxicity levels in these species this year because of the wide range in planting times, soil fertility, and timing and amount of rainfall received. It is a prudent management decision to check for nitrates every year before feeding since the cost of the test is so low compared to the consequences of dead animals or lost pregnancies.

When submitting the forage sample for nitrate testing also have it tested for crude protein and energy (TDN). Use the analysis of forage quality so that the highest quality hay can be used when the need is greatest (i.e., during lactation for cows) and that appropriate levels of supplementation can be provided as needed. If nitrate levels are high, forages can often be ground and mixed with a low nitrate hay to dilute the nitrate to a safe level. The saying ‘you can’t manage what you don’t measure’ certainly applies in this situation.

If you have questions about forage testing or nitrates in feedstuffs, contact Sandy Johnson, Extension Beef Specialist for K-State Research and Extension at 785-462-6281 or sandyj@ksu.edu.

Effects of A Freeze on Forages

Q: What are the effects of freeze on forages?

A: If you haven’t experienced a freeze yet this fall, you soon will. When plants freeze, changes occur in their metabolism and composition that can poison livestock. But you can prevent problems. Sorghum-related plants, like cane, sudangrass, shattercane, and milo can be highly toxic for a few days after frost. Freezing breaks plant cell membranes. This breakage allows the chemicals that form prussic acid to mix together and release this poisonous compound rapidly. Livestock eating recently frozen sorghums can get a sudden, high dose of prussic acid and potentially die. Fortunately, prussic acid soon turns into a gas and disappears into the air. So wait 3 to 5 days after a freeze before grazing sorghums; the chance of poisoning then becomes much lower. Freezing also slows down metabolism in all plants. This stress sometimes permits nitrates to accumulate in plants that are still growing, especially grasses like oats, millet, and sudangrass. This build-up usually isn’t hazardous to grazing animals, but green chop or hay cut right after a freeze can be more dangerous. A hard freeze, down close to twenty degrees, will cause alfalfa to react in two ways. Nitrate levels can increase, but rarely to hazardous levels. Freezing also makes alfalfa more likely to cause bloat for a few days after the frost. Then, several days later, after plants begin to wilt or grow again, alfalfa becomes less likely to cause bloat. So waiting to graze alfalfa until well after a hard freeze is a good, safer management practice.

Ground meat safety from pasture to plate

Q: I have seen several recalls on ground meats lately and I am wondering what to look for. Is ground meat still general safe?
A: While contamination is a possibility, responsibility in preventing foodborne illness should be shared by everyone involved in the production chain to the consumer’s plate. When grinding meats, the outside surface of the product—where contamination is most likely to occur—is mixed with the untouched inside. If any contaminants are mixed in, they have the potential to multiply quickly. Contaminants that could be found include pathogens such as E. coli and salmonella, among others.
Ground meats such as beef are tested throughout the processing and packing process to help ensure any meat that could be contaminated doesn’t make it to the consumer. Therefore, recalls that occur mean the industry’s system is working to protect consumers.
At the store, consumers should look for the “best by” date on meat products. The ‘sell by’ date would just be an indicator for the store when it should be sold. If it’s a ‘best by’ date, that’s the date that you as the consumer could say, ‘It’s getting close to that date; maybe I won’t buy that one if I can’t eat or use it before then. Make sure the meat package isn’t torn and that it feels cold. After deciding to buy a meat product, make sure to keep it away from other groceries in the cart to prevent meat juices dripping onto other foods. Make the meat counter the last stop at the grocery store and the grocery store the last errand before returning home.
Once home, get meat into the refrigerator or freezer as soon as possible. Check the temperature of the refrigerator to be sure it stays below 40 F. Bacteria such as listeria can grow at refrigerator temperatures, especially if the temperature creeps up to 50 F. It’s good practice to put raw meat into a plastic bag around the store packaging, so no juices drip into the refrigerator or onto other foods. Put meat on the lowest shelf in the refrigerator and ready-to-eat foods on the top shelves in case dripping occurs. Any other surfaces that raw meat products touch directly, such as countertops or sinks, should be cleaned and sanitized well.
The best way to thaw any meat is in the refrigerator. Do not thaw on the counter or in the sink, because the outside of the product could get up to room temperature while the inside is still frozen. Room temperature is a perfect environment for microorganisms to multiply. Consumers can also use the microwave to thaw meats, but be sure to cook that meat right away. Don’t thaw it in the microwave and try to put it back in the refrigerator. You can also thaw meat in cold water, just make sure the water is changed often and is staying cold. Don’t use hot water. Put a bag around the outside, so the package doesn’t leak and you don’t get water into your meat.
When cooking, always use a meat thermometer to ensure the product gets to the minimum temperature for doneness for the specific meat product. Color is not a good indicator of doneness, particularly for ground meats.

Tomatillo

Q: We had tomatillos growing in a community location, but they were ripped out early because it was thought they were poisonous prior to cooking. Are there precautions to growing tomatillos?
A: The tomatillo, otherwise known as the Mexican husk tomato, can be eaten both raw and cooked. It is a staple in Mexican cuisine, seen primarily in green sauces such as salsa verde. The tomatillo fruit is surrounded by an inedible, paper like husk. As the fruit matures it fills the husk, which turns brown and often splits open by harvest.
When planting your garden, it is important to note the tomatillos are highly self-incompatible, meaning it takes two or more plants for proper pollination. Isolated tomatillo plants will rarely set fruit. Several cultivars are available; sweeter purple and red varieties as well as more tart green and yellow varieties.
Ripe tomatillos will keep refrigerated for about two weeks, longer if the husks are removed and the fruit is placed in sealed plastic bags. They may be frozen whole or sliced.