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Wild West District Extension Blog

Tag: Gardening

Making Pumpkins Last   

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Making Pumpkins Last

By Nancy Honig

Cooler Fall temperatures seem to bring out the pumpkin decorations for front porch displays. Unfortunately, they can begin to rot and turn that cute fall display into more of a Halloween nightmare. Here are some simple ways to keep your pumpkins longer.

Carved or whole, however, any jack-o-lantern will quickly lose quality if the pumpkin isn’t fully ripe. Before buying, try sticking your thumbnail through the rind.  If you can, shop further.  If you can’t, the pumpkin has set, so it isn’t likely to dry out so fast. Make sure there is no surface damage, bruises or signs of rotting. Select one that seems almost too heavy for its size.  A stem on top is important/

It can also be helpful to remove bacteria and molds before carving or painting a jack-o-lantern.  Simply wipe the surfaces with a household disinfectant or a solution that combines one part bleach with 10 parts water.

Things to avoid that contribute to deteriorating include setting your pumpkins where they can get damp at the base; multiple items sitting together; being outside in elements; staging them with other organic matter like hay or resting between two items. A well-drained area will prolong the life of the pumpkin, whether it’s carved or whole. Pumpkins last a fairly long time off the vine, but the post-harvest life depends on where you get them, how long they’ve been sitting and how they are displayed.

If you choose to cut up your pumpkin to display it know that it will deteriorate fairly quickly. A few ways to slow the process is to spread petroleum jelly on all the cut surfaces. This seal will keep the pumpkins moist and create a barrier to bacteria. Coat any exposed surfaces including the inside and the cut-out sections.

A great alternative to cutting pumpkins is to paint them. This will ensure your pumpkins last longer and still provide kids with a fun and safe activity. Sealing your pumpkin before you paint it is optional, but it helps to give you a good surface to paint on. Choose an aerosol or brush sealant and cover your pumpkin. It won’t necessarily preserve the pumpkin itself, but it can help with paint application. Use an acrylic paint to paint the pumpkin. You can spray it again with the sealant when you are done.

Herbs

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Herbs

By Kristin Penner

Tired of eating the same bland meals over and over?  Well one way you can change it up is to start adding herbs into the meals you cook and also in your drinks.

What are herbs?  Soft-stemmed plants where the leaves, flowers, roots or seeds are used to flavor foods or beverages.

Herbs have been around for many years.  They were originally used in food less for their flavor, and more for their digestive and preservative properties.   The anti-bacterial properties were also important in preserving food before refrigeration came along.

It is now more common to use herbs for seasoning dishes and drinks than for health benefits.

When cooking with herbs start slowly.  Each herb has its own subtle and individual flavor.  Each herb’s flavor compliments a particular companion food.  When trying to decide what herbs to add to a dish here are some pairing recommendations

  • Beef- Sage, Thyme
  • Chicken- Oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme
  • Pork- oregano
  • Corn- parsley
  • Green beans- dill, oregano, thyme
  • Potatoes- Dill, parsley, sage
  • Sumer Squash- Rosemary, sage
  • Tomatoes- Basil, dill, oregano, parsley

Fresh vs. dried- both are great ways to add flavor to your meals.  Dried herbs tend to have a deeper, spicier flavor than fresh herbs. For that reason, you can add less dry herbs than you would fresh. It is better to start with small amounts and adjust so you don’t overpower your meal with flavor.  For best results when cooking add the less delicate herbs (such as dill seed, oregano, thyme) earlier in the cooking and more delicate herbs (such as basil, chive, mint) later or just before serving.

Herbs can be a fun, inexpensive way to add a new twist to your favorite recipes or experiment with your own creations.  Herbs do not have any calories, fat, or carbohydrates but are plentiful in healthful antioxidants and pigments.

Onions Which one is Right?

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Onions Which one is Right?

By Nancy Honig

Did you know that the onion is part of the related to the lily and in my opinion is one of the most important vegetables out there! Onions are members of the allium family, a genus of pungent plants that also includes garlic, leeks, chives, ramps, and hundreds of other species. Even among onions there are many, many different types, each with its own special qualities. There are two main classifications of onions- green (also called scallions) and dry onions, which are simply mature onions with a juicy flash covered with dry, papery skin. Dry onions come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and flavors.

When you are at the grocery store and see the variety, it can be overwhelming. Here are some basics to help you understand which onions are best for which dishes.

Yellow onion – The typical onion most are familiar with is the yellow onion. It is the workhorse of kitchen. They can be used in savory dishes either raw or cooked, they hold up well in soups, stews, and sauces. The yellows hold up extremely well over that process of caramelizing because it is a long, slow heat.

Sweet onion – Among the sweet varieties the most common in our area is the Vidalia. These are large, pale-yellow onions that are exceedingly sweet and juicy. They are typically in season from May through July but can usually be found year-round. They are great for onion rings, roasting and grating. The Maui onion (from the island of Hawaii) are sweet mild and crisply moist. These sweet onions have a pale-yellow skin. The inside may look white, but they are yellow. If you’re looking for an onion that tastes amazing raw in salads, relishes or chopped as a garnish, go for sweet onions. They just have that mild onion flavor with a touch of sweetness that you can use in several things.

Red onion – These are best for eating raw and for pickling. They are excellent in salads, sandwiches, and guacamole. Red onions, specifically, can have a peppery, spicy flavor to them.” This variety is sweetest from March to September. Red onions pair well with equally strong-flavored greens such as kale or arugula. . Cut red onion can be soaked in cool water for a period, and the water can be drained off, resulting in less “bite” and pungency.

White Onions – White onions it the type of onion you’ll usually find in prepared salads (potato and macaroni salads, for instance) and traditionally in Mexican cuisine. White onions can be strong, but they tend to have less aftertaste.

Shallots – Shallots have a mild onion flavor. These bulb-shaped alliums taste like a garlic-onion hybrid. In French cooking, shallots are used in vinaigrettes and sauces, as well as on top of steak. When a recipe calls for a shallot and you don’t have one, you can likely substitute another type of onion for it.

Cutting onion is the one thing I hate about onions. I seem to be one who cries every time I cut them.  One of the things I discovered is that a dull knife smashes rather than slices, doing more damage to the onions’ cells and thereby releasing more of the tear-inducing compound. You can also try chilling your onions. It takes foresight, but chilling peeled, halved onions in the fridge or in a bowl of ice water for 30 minutes can lessen the chemical’s effect.

There are also lots of online tutorials for how to cut up onions if you struggle with the best way to slice or diced one. This is one of the beauties of YouTube is being able to watch something in real time and stop and start it.

When selecting your onions be sure and purchase firm onions that are free of blemishes. The papery orbs shouldn’t have a scent. Onions should be stored in a cool, dark place with plenty of ventilation. Be sure and check on them regularly to make sure they haven’t gone bad.

Cool-Season Grass Management Calendar

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Cool-Season Grass Management Calendar

By Ron Honig

In an effort to help homeowners plan their lawn management procedures, K-State’s horticulture department has developed a calendar to follow for tips and reminders on cool-season lawn care.

The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime.

March
Spot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. Combination herbicides such as Trimec or Weed-B-Gon containing the active ingredients 2,4-D and dicamba work well.

April
Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually about April 1st to the 15th. Crabgrass preventers containing the herbicides Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) normally provide season-long control with a single application. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed.

May
Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering it in.

If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4″ of water.

June through Mid-July
Apply a second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application as those two will last all season. Again, remember to water it in.

Late-July through August
If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox.

The insecticides imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.

September
Fertilize with nitrogen around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.

November
Apply nitrogen fertilizer. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in the fertilizer.

Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Follow the labeled use rate for all products.

Increasing Tomato Yields with Red Plastic Mulch

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Increasing Tomato Yields with Red Plastic Mulch

By Ron Honig

Most gardeners employ some type of mulch system in their gardens to control weeds and conserve moisture.  Research has shown certain vegetables may gain an advantage by using varying colors of plastic mulch.  Kansas State University Horticulture Expert Ward Upham provided the following report on the use of red plastic mulch under tomato plants.

Upham says plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control. More recently, advantages have been noted for colored mulches over the more traditional black plastic mulch.

With tomatoes, the color of choice has been red. Though normally there is an increase in production of marketable fruit with red mulch over black mulch, the amount of the increase varies with the type of year we have. There may be no increase during years of near-perfect weather or up to a 20% increase with less favorable growing conditions. A good average expected yield increase is about 12%.

How to Apply Plastic Mulch

Upham says commercial growers have a mulch-laying machine that applies the trickle (drip) irrigation line and the mulch in one operation. Home gardeners must do this by hand. The first step after soil preparation is to place a trickle line near the center of where the mulch will lay as the plastic will prevent rainwater or overhead irrigation from reaching the plants.

Then, Upham recommends to construct trenches for the outer 6 inches of the plastic mulch. This allows the center of the bed to be undisturbed with the edges of the mulch draping down into the trench. Fill the trenches to cover the edges of the mulch. This will prevent wind from catching and blowing the mulch. Upham states, if the soil has been tilled, a hoe is all that is needed to prepare the trenches.

It is important to remember that the red plastic sheet must be on top of any other mulch so it can reflect the light back to the tomato plants.  Placing an additional organic mulch such as straw on top of the plastic in an attempt to hold the plastic sheets down, will negate the benefit received from the light reflection.

The red plastic mulch is available from a number of sources.  Check with your local garden supply store, but an online search will also provide a number of vendors offering the red plastic sheets.

 

 

 

The use of red plastic mulch has shown an average tomato produce yield increase of approximately 12 percent.  (Photo courtesy of Ward Upham, Kansas State University).

 

Preventing Winter Sunscald on Trees

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Preventing Winter Sunscald on Trees

By Ron Honig

Homeowners with young trees should consider protecting the trunks from a problem known as winter sunscald. Sunscald occurs during the winter months on trees when the sun warms up the dormant tissue on the south or southwest side of a tree’s trunk to the point that the bark’s tissue loses its dormancy and the cells become active.  Then, when the sun sets and cold night temperatures return, the tissue on the sunny side of the tree can freeze and a strip of bark be killed. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring.  Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off.

Research done in Georgia on peach trees has shown that the southwest side of the trunk can be 40 degrees warmer than the shaded bark.  Trees most susceptible to sunscald include thin-barked species such as honeylocust, fruit trees, ash, oaks, maples, lindens and willows.  Young trees are at greatest risk.

Trees often recover from sunscald but need extra care, especially watering during dry weather, as a portion of the water transport system has been destroyed.

I have seen a few good examples of sunscald on trees in our district over the last few years. This fall and winter we are seeing large shifts in temperatures from mid-day to night, thus the 2021-2022 winter may present an opportunity for winter sunscald to occur.

Prevention usually involves wrapping young or recently-planted trees with a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches.  Commercially produced wraps are available from garden stores in the form of a flexible heavy plastic strip that is coiled around the trunk or heavy white-colored paper wrap. Homeowners can be creative in producing their own home-made protective wrap.

This is best started in November and removed the following March, but if you have susceptible trees, wrapping them anytime may be better than leaving their trunks bare all winter.

Commercial orchards will sometimes use light-colored paint as a substitute for tree wrap.  Paint may not be the best choice for protecting young trees in the landscape, but if you wish to make a whitewash solution for an orchard, dilute white, interior latex (not acrylic) paint with an equal amount of water and apply to the south and southwest side of the tree trunks.

Not all universities agree on the best way to avoid sunscald, but K-State’s horticulture department still recommends taking action to prevent sunscald on young, thin-barked trees.

 

Poinsettia Tips For Success

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Poinsettias present a yuletide challenge for plant enthusiasts

For the holiday season, consistency is the key to success

By Kylee Harrison

Poinsettia plants are a traditional Christmas plant found in many stores this time of year.  Many people present them as gifts to neighbors, co-workers and friends.  Once the holiday is over, the question becomes, “how do I care for my plant?”

The poinsettia is probably the most familiar form of a specialized leaf known as a bract. The bracts are bright red, and they surround the very small flowers, which are usually yellow. When shopping for a poinsettia, K-State Research and Extension horticulturist Ward Upham suggests looking for the brightest yellow flowers, as those tend to be fresher.

“Make sure that the green leaves are intact and straight, not drooping over. The bracts should be brightly colored. Check the undersides of the leaves for insects. The soil in the pot should be moist, but not waterlogged.”

Poinsettias are extremely sensitive to cold temperatures. Transporting the plant from the retailer to your home really is a do-or-die mission.

“Any temperature below 50° F for any length of time could damage the plant. Florists will often have a plastic sleeve over them — if you buy one from another retailer, it’s not a bad idea to put a bag over it. And then go from the store to your vehicle, and from your vehicle into the house.”

Place the plant where it can receive plenty of bright, indirect light. Avoid drafts — cold drafts, warm drafts, all of them. “A place near an outside door is just as bad as a place near an air vent,” Upham said.

Poinsettias prefer temperatures above 60° F, which is, of course, what most people prefer during the winter, too. Perhaps the most challenging tightrope to walk in terms of poinsettia care is water.

“They are sensitive to either over- or under-watering,” said Upham. “Too little water can lead to wilt, which can progress to leaf loss and possibly even some bract loss. Too much water can cause root rot, and that’s just as bad.”

To avoid watering too soon, stick your finger down into the soil, about half an inch; if the soil is moist, it’s fine. Dry soil means the plant needs water, and it needs to be saturated.

“When you do water, pour on enough so that you see water draining out of the bottom of the pot,” Upham said. “If you have a tray or saucer underneath, discard any water that collects there.”

“Many poinsettias are sold with decorative foil surrounding the pot. You’ll need to make a hole in the bottom of that foil so that that water can flow into the saucer or tray.”

Following these instructions, your poinsettia should last several weeks. While it is possible to keep a poinsettia going from year to year, Upham warns that the blooming process is very challenging, even for the most experienced plant enthusiast.

“Assuming your poinsettia survives the summer outdoors, the real work begins in September. Poinsettias need 12 hours of absolute darkness, every night, for about six or seven weeks. That means putting the plant in a closet, and covering it with a cardboard box with all the seams taped over.”

“Because of that, most people just toss them out in January or February, and buy another one next year.”

Fall is the Best Time to Control Dandelions and Perennial Weeds

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Fall is the Best Time to Control Dandelions and Perennial Weeds

By Ron Honig

Mid-October to early November is a great time to treat perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelion and field bindweed.  With shorter days and cooler temperatures, these perennial weeds are moving nutrients from their foliage down to their root systems.  A fall herbicide application applied to the foliage will move a dose of herbicide down to the roots as well and improve chances of satisfactory weed control.

For many perennial broadleaf plants, including dandelion, a fall application of the herbicide 2,4-D in amine or ester form will provide good to excellent control. The best response may be seen when using the herbicide products which are a combination of three or more active ingredients such as Trimec Classic or one of the Weed-B-Gon or Spectracide brand products.  These products usually include the active ingredients 2,4-D and dicamba, plus additional herbicides such as quinclorac or mecoprop (MCPP).

Dandelion is a perennial plant and will survive the winter and green up again in the spring.  New dandelion plants often sprout and emerge in late summer and thus are vulnerable to a fall herbicide application.

University tests show a fall herbicide treatment on dandelions often yields over 90 percent control the following spring verses only 50 percent or less control from a single treatment performed in the spring or summer.

Field bindweed is a perennial vine with whiteish-pink flowers and arrowhead-shaped leaves.  Bindweed produces an extensive root system that once established, can be difficult to decrease.  Kansas State University research shows fall herbicide applications containing the chemicals dicamba and quinclorac provide the best control of field bindweed and the best chance of weakening and reducing the root system.

Chemical premixes containing dicamba and quinclorac are readily available at your garden supply store.  To find these products you must read the portion of the label indicating the active ingredients in the product and not just the product’s brand name.

Henbit is a winter annual and sprouts in the fall up until sustained cold temperatures stop its emergence. When temperatures warm again, henbit then continues to emerge in late winter to mid-spring.  In fertile lawns, henbit can grow a foot high or more with bright purple flowers.  Unlike dandelion and bindweed, henbit will eventually die back when hot weather arrives.

Once henbit begins to grow in the spring and produce flowers, it becomes significantly harder to control with herbicides.  Fall and early spring herbicide treatments with one of the combination products will provide the best control.

The recommended use rates provided on the herbicide product labels are normally sufficient to provide excellent control when applied in the fall.  For best results, choose a day when the temperature is at least 50 degrees F during the daytime.

The one weed we see so much of in late-summer and fall is prostrate spurge.  It is that circular, low growing weed that seems to grow out of every sidewalk crack and when its stems are broken, produces a white, milky sap.  The good news is prostrate spurge is a summer annual and will freeze in the coming weeks. Thus, it will not require any herbicide treatments.

Selecting a Crabgrass Preventer for Your Lawn

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Selecting a Crabgrass Preventer for Your Lawn

By Ron Honig

If you can find a day when the wind is not howling, now is the time to be applying crabgrass and broadleaf herbicides to cool and warm season lawns. Crabgrass preventers are simply preemergence turf herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants.  As the name suggests, preemerge herbicides must be applied before the grass germinates and begins to grow in order to get control.  With a few exceptions, they have little to no effect on existing crabgrass plants.  Early to mid-April is the recommended application period in Kansas.

Crabgrass, however is not the only common weed controlled by crabgrass preventers thus selecting the right herbicide can be a handy aid to controlling a number of other grasses and broadleaf weeds in your lawn such as dandelion and sandbur.

Following are four common active ingredients found in crabgrass preventers along with their common trade names: Prodiamine (Barricade), dithiopyr (Dimension), pendimethalin (Halts or Pendulum), and a combination of trifluralin and benefin (Team or Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control).

Of the four herbicides, prodiamine has the longest residual in the soil and provides the longest control of weeds listed in the product label.  Because of this long residual, prodiamine is a good choice for applying in the late summer or fall for preemerge henbit (the spring weed with square stems and purple flowers) control.  Henbit germinates in the fall or winter months and begins growth early in the spring.

Prodiamine also controls kochia which may germinate in late winter or early fall as well as pigweeds, shepherdspurse and prostrate spurge.  Dandelions, however, are not on the label’s control list.  Products vary, however a full-rate application of prodiamine can provide over six months of crabgrass control.

A fall prodiamine application, at the full application rate, should still provide weed control into the summer.  A split application of a half-rate in early fall and another in the spring may extend weed control through July.

Dithiopyr, when applied at the full rate, also has a long residual of 3 to 4 months.  Dithiopyr has the advantage of controlling many of the same weeds as prodiamine but with the addition of dandelion and sandbur.

Dithiopyr may also be applied in the fall like prodiamine, but if used in the fall, a second application in early summer will be needed to get season-long weed control from dithiopyr.  If applied in the spring at the full application rate, expect weed control throughout much of the summer.

Pendimethalin controls a wide range of grass and broadleaf weeds including sandbur, henbit, kochia and a broadleaf weed called Redstem Filaree which we are seeing more and more of in this area.  Dandelion is not on the label however, and henbit, filaree and kochia may emerge before pendimethalin is normally applied in mid-April.

Pendimethalin, unfortunately, has a shorter residual than either prodiamine or dithiopyr and will require a second application about six weeks of the first, even if applied in the spring. The product label will provide exact retreatment recommendations based on the concentration of the active ingredient.

The trifluralin and benefin combination in Team products control a smaller list of both grass and broadleaf weeds.  Purdue University rates the level of crabgrass control from Team lower than that of the other products discussed previously.  Team provides control of pigweed, prostrate knotweed and some foxtails along with crabgrass.

The four crabgrass herbicides mentioned do not control emerged weeds.  These products are intended for preemerge control of weeds and are soil applied herbicides.  The exception is that dithiopyr will control small, early-tillered crabgrass when applied post emerge.

After application, all of these herbicides need to be watered into the soil with either rain or approximately ½ inch of irrigation.

The addition of a 2,4-D- or dicamba-based herbicide either in dry or liquid form will help control emerged broadleaf weeds such as dandelion.

Most crabgrass preventers are marketed to homeowners with fertilizer in the product mix.   The four herbicides discussed in this article can be ordered without fertilizer from garden stores or from online vendors.  Follow label directions for the correct application rates and for the recommended timing of reapplications.

Butterfly Gardens

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Butterfly Gardens

By Kylee Harrison

If you have ever experienced the late summer migration of the Monarch Butterfly, it is quite a sight to behold.  Thousands of Monarch’s make their way south to overwinter.  If you love this, but would like to enjoy butterflies all summer long, planting a butterfly garden might be for you.

Check out this video from Kansas Healthy Yards for tips on what to plant and how to maintain a butterfly garden.

https://kansashealthyyards.org/all-videos/video/butterfly-gardens

Finishing Those Last – Minute Garden Chores

Posted on by Lacey Noterman

By Ron Honig, Crops and Horticulture Agent

If you are like me, you are being forced to turn the corner and head toward winter, but still have a list of fall projects waiting to be completed. My short list includes tilling some peat moss and manure into the garden and a new flowerbed I’m trying to develop, planting a few bulbs that still need a home in the ground, collecting flower seeds from my dried plants before cutting them down and mulching around a few young trees.

We won’t even talk about the rest of the list like staining a couple new gates, searching for the leak in my sprinkler system or pouring a footer under the fence.  Apparently, some projects are just going to have to be rolled into spring.

So, what can we finish up here at the last minute?

Planting Fall Bulbs

Spring flowering bulbs we plant in the fall will winter better in the soil then trying to hold them another year.  We may not have time to work the bed under the bulbs adding organic matter and fertilizer, but we can at least turn the soil a few times with a shovel and get the bulbs in the soil before winter.  We may be wearing a heavy coat and using a flashlight, but we can probably get this chore done.  The soil is still fairly warm so we may get some root growth on the bulbs before complete winter dormancy.  Be sure to plant at the proper depth.

Cleaning Off Old Crop Residue

Depending on what you grow in your garden, it can be important to rake up the old plant stems, leaves, and discarded fruit, and then dispose of them to reduce disease and insect problems next year.  Old squash and pumpkin residue can harbor squash bugs through the winter.  Tomato plants and fruit can over-winter disease spores for next years crop.  Tilling them into the soil certainly helps but a combination of removing residue and with potential problems and tilling the finer remaining residue under the soil can provide double protection.

Tilling Organic Matter into the Garden

If you are person that likes to till their garden in the fall, there is still time to make that happen.   I piled some “clean” grass clippings mixed with leaves on the edge of my garden to incorporate into the soil.  If you are done mowing for the year, maybe there are still some leaves scattered around that could be raked up and tilled or spaded into the soil.  Adding store-bought organic matter such as peat moss is great also if you have time gather the ingredients.  If not, just work with what is readily available.

Don’t Let Free Seed Go to Waste  

If you have flowers that produced seed, there is still time to gather some of it up for use in the future.  Label some plastic sandwich bags with the flower’s name and store the bags in the refrigerator if you have room or in the garage.  If you punch a few holes in the plastic bags, it helps equalize the moisture so the seeds don’t mold.

Once you have all the seed you need, leave the rest for the birds to clean up.

Fertilizing Cool-Season Lawns

A late-fall application of nitrogen to cool-season grasses, such as fescues, feeds the roots without stimulating new growth.  The grass roots will continue to be active in the relatively warm soil after the top-growth has slowed for the winter season.  An application of 1 to 1 ½ pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn can help keep your lawn fed during the winter and promote an earlier, more even green-up in the spring.

Since this application is feeding the roots during the winter, there is still time to make this application and hopefully we get some moisture to carry the nitrogen into the soil.  A light watering by hand can help move the fertilizer into the soil as well.

Last weekend we had a light rain shower move into the area.  I pulled out my fertilizer spreader in hopes of getting enough rain to water in my nitrogen without having to start up water.  I spread my fertilizer in the rain on one last zone of my lawn I hadn’t fertilized yet.  But unfortunately, the rain finished about the same time I did so I’m hoping the snow is heavy enough to finish the job.

Either way, that chore got completed and scratched off the list.