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Wild West District Extension Blog

Tag: Horticulture

Water Trees in a Wide Swath

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Water Trees in a Wide Swath

By Ron Honig

Throughout this brutal summer of high winds and hot, dry conditions, our three Extension offices in the Wild West District received numerous calls related to tree problems, particularly in shelterbelts.

We believe most of these problems are related to drought and other environmental stresses such as winter freeze injury and dehydration injury from sandblasting and high winds. Environmental stress is cumulative. Trees can become weak over a period of years when conditions exist such as repeated drought cycles, severe winter temperatures, disease or insect attacks, and iron chlorosis due to poor soil chemistry.

We received several requests for inspections of pine trees showing brown needles and branches as well as general scorching of the needle tips. Inspection and testing at the K-State plant diagnostic lab in Manhattan showed no disease pathogens present on the samples submitted for testing.

We also received numerous inquiries related to Eastern Redcedar trees and related junipers with yellow to orange needles on the interior of branches. Again, juniper samples submitted to K-State’s diagnostic lab for examination showed no signs of disease problems, leading us to conclude the injury is related to drought stress.

Following the severe drought of 2011 and 2012, K-State’s horticulture department documented a large increase in the death of blue spruce trees, however pines and eastern redcedars also were noted to have suffered significant losses across the state following that long dry period.

We know, of course, that when settlers arrived in southwest Kansas there were very few trees that could be considered native.  We have brought tree species into this semi-arid environment that would never be expected to survive in this region without intense management on the part of the landowners. The most limiting factor naturally being moisture.

Most frustrating to property owners I visit with is seeing environmental injury to their shelterbelt and landscape trees despite trying to provide a consistent water supply through use of a drip irrigation system or hand-watering.

One situation we see again and again is the use of a drip irrigation system with an emitter positioned at the base of the tree’s trunk. This system is usually originally designed when the tree row was planted and the trees were small. At that time the tree’s root system was small and entirely positioned under the water emitter.

As the tree flourished and grew, the root system expanded laterally well beyond the tree’s trunk and the emitter on the irrigation hose.  Under sufficient growing conditions those expanding roots survived and supported the tree’s increasing size.  Under poor growing conditions, those same roots died back if they were not in moist enough soil to maintain the tiny root hairs that are responsible for absorbing water into the tree’s root system. As roots die back, the tree loses the full ability to support its increased size. This reduction in roots however, may not be apparent until the lack of roots becomes too large of an obstacle for the tree to maintain its load of foliage, whether it be leaves or evergreen needles.

Usually a stressed tree will green up initially, and then in the late-spring or early-summer, we notice a rapid decline in the tree’s health.

Under good soil and growing conditions, a 20-year-old tree can send roots out in all directions well past the tree’s “dripline”, meaning the outer edge of the leaf or needle canopy. Without precipitation to feed those wide-ranging roots, the single irrigation emitter can not possibly wet a large enough area to supply that tree’s water demands.

One impulse is to increase the size of the orifice in the emitter or to simply leave the water turned on for a longer length of time. The pit fall to this remedy is that water has a limited lateral movement in our western Kansas soils and water is likely to move downward in the soil profile easier than it will move side-ways. Water that moves downward past the tree’s roots without being absorbed by the tree is wasted for the most part. If your irrigation system is already providing enough water from its emitter to water below the roots, increasing the orifice size or the run time, will not benefit the tree and may possibly damage the tree’s roots by suffocation if roots are allowed to remain in water-saturated soil for too long of period.

We know trees are revered for exchanging carbon dioxide into oxygen, but the root system must have oxygen to survive. Over-watering can kill off roots as easily as a drought period. Adding an additional water line further out from the tree’s trunk to reach those long roots can be an answer to the problem, as well as simply adding additional emitters between trees or switching to a sprinkler system to spread irrigation water over a larger area.

We also must remember that during dry periods our shelterbelt trees are competing with each other for moisture. Those closely-planted trees have roots that are crisscrossing under each other and fighting to absorb as much moisture as possible to survive.

K-State recommends watering to a depth of 12 to 18 inches, if possible. Though this will not reach all the roots of a tree, it will reach the majority of them. Trees normally have at least 80 percent of their roots in the top foot of soil. Shrubs should be watered every week to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. Check depth of watering by pushing a wooden dowel or metal rod into the soil. It will stop when it hits dry soil.

Increasing Tomato Yields with Red Plastic Mulch

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Increasing Tomato Yields with Red Plastic Mulch

By Ron Honig

Most gardeners employ some type of mulch system in their gardens to control weeds and conserve moisture.  Research has shown certain vegetables may gain an advantage by using varying colors of plastic mulch.  Kansas State University Horticulture Expert Ward Upham provided the following report on the use of red plastic mulch under tomato plants.

Upham says plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control. More recently, advantages have been noted for colored mulches over the more traditional black plastic mulch.

With tomatoes, the color of choice has been red. Though normally there is an increase in production of marketable fruit with red mulch over black mulch, the amount of the increase varies with the type of year we have. There may be no increase during years of near-perfect weather or up to a 20% increase with less favorable growing conditions. A good average expected yield increase is about 12%.

How to Apply Plastic Mulch

Upham says commercial growers have a mulch-laying machine that applies the trickle (drip) irrigation line and the mulch in one operation. Home gardeners must do this by hand. The first step after soil preparation is to place a trickle line near the center of where the mulch will lay as the plastic will prevent rainwater or overhead irrigation from reaching the plants.

Then, Upham recommends to construct trenches for the outer 6 inches of the plastic mulch. This allows the center of the bed to be undisturbed with the edges of the mulch draping down into the trench. Fill the trenches to cover the edges of the mulch. This will prevent wind from catching and blowing the mulch. Upham states, if the soil has been tilled, a hoe is all that is needed to prepare the trenches.

It is important to remember that the red plastic sheet must be on top of any other mulch so it can reflect the light back to the tomato plants.  Placing an additional organic mulch such as straw on top of the plastic in an attempt to hold the plastic sheets down, will negate the benefit received from the light reflection.

The red plastic mulch is available from a number of sources.  Check with your local garden supply store, but an online search will also provide a number of vendors offering the red plastic sheets.

 

 

 

The use of red plastic mulch has shown an average tomato produce yield increase of approximately 12 percent.  (Photo courtesy of Ward Upham, Kansas State University).

 

Preventing Winter Sunscald on Trees

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Preventing Winter Sunscald on Trees

By Ron Honig

Homeowners with young trees should consider protecting the trunks from a problem known as winter sunscald. Sunscald occurs during the winter months on trees when the sun warms up the dormant tissue on the south or southwest side of a tree’s trunk to the point that the bark’s tissue loses its dormancy and the cells become active.  Then, when the sun sets and cold night temperatures return, the tissue on the sunny side of the tree can freeze and a strip of bark be killed. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring.  Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off.

Research done in Georgia on peach trees has shown that the southwest side of the trunk can be 40 degrees warmer than the shaded bark.  Trees most susceptible to sunscald include thin-barked species such as honeylocust, fruit trees, ash, oaks, maples, lindens and willows.  Young trees are at greatest risk.

Trees often recover from sunscald but need extra care, especially watering during dry weather, as a portion of the water transport system has been destroyed.

I have seen a few good examples of sunscald on trees in our district over the last few years. This fall and winter we are seeing large shifts in temperatures from mid-day to night, thus the 2021-2022 winter may present an opportunity for winter sunscald to occur.

Prevention usually involves wrapping young or recently-planted trees with a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches.  Commercially produced wraps are available from garden stores in the form of a flexible heavy plastic strip that is coiled around the trunk or heavy white-colored paper wrap. Homeowners can be creative in producing their own home-made protective wrap.

This is best started in November and removed the following March, but if you have susceptible trees, wrapping them anytime may be better than leaving their trunks bare all winter.

Commercial orchards will sometimes use light-colored paint as a substitute for tree wrap.  Paint may not be the best choice for protecting young trees in the landscape, but if you wish to make a whitewash solution for an orchard, dilute white, interior latex (not acrylic) paint with an equal amount of water and apply to the south and southwest side of the tree trunks.

Not all universities agree on the best way to avoid sunscald, but K-State’s horticulture department still recommends taking action to prevent sunscald on young, thin-barked trees.

 

Poinsettia Tips For Success

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Poinsettias present a yuletide challenge for plant enthusiasts

For the holiday season, consistency is the key to success

By Kylee Harrison

Poinsettia plants are a traditional Christmas plant found in many stores this time of year.  Many people present them as gifts to neighbors, co-workers and friends.  Once the holiday is over, the question becomes, “how do I care for my plant?”

The poinsettia is probably the most familiar form of a specialized leaf known as a bract. The bracts are bright red, and they surround the very small flowers, which are usually yellow. When shopping for a poinsettia, K-State Research and Extension horticulturist Ward Upham suggests looking for the brightest yellow flowers, as those tend to be fresher.

“Make sure that the green leaves are intact and straight, not drooping over. The bracts should be brightly colored. Check the undersides of the leaves for insects. The soil in the pot should be moist, but not waterlogged.”

Poinsettias are extremely sensitive to cold temperatures. Transporting the plant from the retailer to your home really is a do-or-die mission.

“Any temperature below 50° F for any length of time could damage the plant. Florists will often have a plastic sleeve over them — if you buy one from another retailer, it’s not a bad idea to put a bag over it. And then go from the store to your vehicle, and from your vehicle into the house.”

Place the plant where it can receive plenty of bright, indirect light. Avoid drafts — cold drafts, warm drafts, all of them. “A place near an outside door is just as bad as a place near an air vent,” Upham said.

Poinsettias prefer temperatures above 60° F, which is, of course, what most people prefer during the winter, too. Perhaps the most challenging tightrope to walk in terms of poinsettia care is water.

“They are sensitive to either over- or under-watering,” said Upham. “Too little water can lead to wilt, which can progress to leaf loss and possibly even some bract loss. Too much water can cause root rot, and that’s just as bad.”

To avoid watering too soon, stick your finger down into the soil, about half an inch; if the soil is moist, it’s fine. Dry soil means the plant needs water, and it needs to be saturated.

“When you do water, pour on enough so that you see water draining out of the bottom of the pot,” Upham said. “If you have a tray or saucer underneath, discard any water that collects there.”

“Many poinsettias are sold with decorative foil surrounding the pot. You’ll need to make a hole in the bottom of that foil so that that water can flow into the saucer or tray.”

Following these instructions, your poinsettia should last several weeks. While it is possible to keep a poinsettia going from year to year, Upham warns that the blooming process is very challenging, even for the most experienced plant enthusiast.

“Assuming your poinsettia survives the summer outdoors, the real work begins in September. Poinsettias need 12 hours of absolute darkness, every night, for about six or seven weeks. That means putting the plant in a closet, and covering it with a cardboard box with all the seams taped over.”

“Because of that, most people just toss them out in January or February, and buy another one next year.”

Fall is the Best Time to Control Dandelions and Perennial Weeds

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Fall is the Best Time to Control Dandelions and Perennial Weeds

By Ron Honig

Mid-October to early November is a great time to treat perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelion and field bindweed.  With shorter days and cooler temperatures, these perennial weeds are moving nutrients from their foliage down to their root systems.  A fall herbicide application applied to the foliage will move a dose of herbicide down to the roots as well and improve chances of satisfactory weed control.

For many perennial broadleaf plants, including dandelion, a fall application of the herbicide 2,4-D in amine or ester form will provide good to excellent control. The best response may be seen when using the herbicide products which are a combination of three or more active ingredients such as Trimec Classic or one of the Weed-B-Gon or Spectracide brand products.  These products usually include the active ingredients 2,4-D and dicamba, plus additional herbicides such as quinclorac or mecoprop (MCPP).

Dandelion is a perennial plant and will survive the winter and green up again in the spring.  New dandelion plants often sprout and emerge in late summer and thus are vulnerable to a fall herbicide application.

University tests show a fall herbicide treatment on dandelions often yields over 90 percent control the following spring verses only 50 percent or less control from a single treatment performed in the spring or summer.

Field bindweed is a perennial vine with whiteish-pink flowers and arrowhead-shaped leaves.  Bindweed produces an extensive root system that once established, can be difficult to decrease.  Kansas State University research shows fall herbicide applications containing the chemicals dicamba and quinclorac provide the best control of field bindweed and the best chance of weakening and reducing the root system.

Chemical premixes containing dicamba and quinclorac are readily available at your garden supply store.  To find these products you must read the portion of the label indicating the active ingredients in the product and not just the product’s brand name.

Henbit is a winter annual and sprouts in the fall up until sustained cold temperatures stop its emergence. When temperatures warm again, henbit then continues to emerge in late winter to mid-spring.  In fertile lawns, henbit can grow a foot high or more with bright purple flowers.  Unlike dandelion and bindweed, henbit will eventually die back when hot weather arrives.

Once henbit begins to grow in the spring and produce flowers, it becomes significantly harder to control with herbicides.  Fall and early spring herbicide treatments with one of the combination products will provide the best control.

The recommended use rates provided on the herbicide product labels are normally sufficient to provide excellent control when applied in the fall.  For best results, choose a day when the temperature is at least 50 degrees F during the daytime.

The one weed we see so much of in late-summer and fall is prostrate spurge.  It is that circular, low growing weed that seems to grow out of every sidewalk crack and when its stems are broken, produces a white, milky sap.  The good news is prostrate spurge is a summer annual and will freeze in the coming weeks. Thus, it will not require any herbicide treatments.

Selecting a Crabgrass Preventer for Your Lawn

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Selecting a Crabgrass Preventer for Your Lawn

By Ron Honig

If you can find a day when the wind is not howling, now is the time to be applying crabgrass and broadleaf herbicides to cool and warm season lawns. Crabgrass preventers are simply preemergence turf herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants.  As the name suggests, preemerge herbicides must be applied before the grass germinates and begins to grow in order to get control.  With a few exceptions, they have little to no effect on existing crabgrass plants.  Early to mid-April is the recommended application period in Kansas.

Crabgrass, however is not the only common weed controlled by crabgrass preventers thus selecting the right herbicide can be a handy aid to controlling a number of other grasses and broadleaf weeds in your lawn such as dandelion and sandbur.

Following are four common active ingredients found in crabgrass preventers along with their common trade names: Prodiamine (Barricade), dithiopyr (Dimension), pendimethalin (Halts or Pendulum), and a combination of trifluralin and benefin (Team or Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control).

Of the four herbicides, prodiamine has the longest residual in the soil and provides the longest control of weeds listed in the product label.  Because of this long residual, prodiamine is a good choice for applying in the late summer or fall for preemerge henbit (the spring weed with square stems and purple flowers) control.  Henbit germinates in the fall or winter months and begins growth early in the spring.

Prodiamine also controls kochia which may germinate in late winter or early fall as well as pigweeds, shepherdspurse and prostrate spurge.  Dandelions, however, are not on the label’s control list.  Products vary, however a full-rate application of prodiamine can provide over six months of crabgrass control.

A fall prodiamine application, at the full application rate, should still provide weed control into the summer.  A split application of a half-rate in early fall and another in the spring may extend weed control through July.

Dithiopyr, when applied at the full rate, also has a long residual of 3 to 4 months.  Dithiopyr has the advantage of controlling many of the same weeds as prodiamine but with the addition of dandelion and sandbur.

Dithiopyr may also be applied in the fall like prodiamine, but if used in the fall, a second application in early summer will be needed to get season-long weed control from dithiopyr.  If applied in the spring at the full application rate, expect weed control throughout much of the summer.

Pendimethalin controls a wide range of grass and broadleaf weeds including sandbur, henbit, kochia and a broadleaf weed called Redstem Filaree which we are seeing more and more of in this area.  Dandelion is not on the label however, and henbit, filaree and kochia may emerge before pendimethalin is normally applied in mid-April.

Pendimethalin, unfortunately, has a shorter residual than either prodiamine or dithiopyr and will require a second application about six weeks of the first, even if applied in the spring. The product label will provide exact retreatment recommendations based on the concentration of the active ingredient.

The trifluralin and benefin combination in Team products control a smaller list of both grass and broadleaf weeds.  Purdue University rates the level of crabgrass control from Team lower than that of the other products discussed previously.  Team provides control of pigweed, prostrate knotweed and some foxtails along with crabgrass.

The four crabgrass herbicides mentioned do not control emerged weeds.  These products are intended for preemerge control of weeds and are soil applied herbicides.  The exception is that dithiopyr will control small, early-tillered crabgrass when applied post emerge.

After application, all of these herbicides need to be watered into the soil with either rain or approximately ½ inch of irrigation.

The addition of a 2,4-D- or dicamba-based herbicide either in dry or liquid form will help control emerged broadleaf weeds such as dandelion.

Most crabgrass preventers are marketed to homeowners with fertilizer in the product mix.   The four herbicides discussed in this article can be ordered without fertilizer from garden stores or from online vendors.  Follow label directions for the correct application rates and for the recommended timing of reapplications.

Butterfly Gardens

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Butterfly Gardens

By Kylee Harrison

If you have ever experienced the late summer migration of the Monarch Butterfly, it is quite a sight to behold.  Thousands of Monarch’s make their way south to overwinter.  If you love this, but would like to enjoy butterflies all summer long, planting a butterfly garden might be for you.

Check out this video from Kansas Healthy Yards for tips on what to plant and how to maintain a butterfly garden.

https://kansashealthyyards.org/all-videos/video/butterfly-gardens

Private Pesticide License

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

 

 

Private Pesticide Applicator Certification

By Ron Honig

Now with what we surely hope is the worst of the winter behind us, producers can look forward to the spring cropping season and the top-dressing of the wheat crop.

Producers either supervising applicators or applying restricted-use pesticides themselves, must obtain a Private Pesticide Applicator license from the Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) or from the department of ag in the state where the application is being made.

A private pesticide applicator certification may only be used to apply or supervise the application of a restricted use pesticide product according to label directions for the purpose of producing an agricultural commodity on property owned or rented by the private certified applicator or such person’s employer.

However, if applied without compensation other than trading of personal services between producers of agricultural commodities, a pesticide can be applied on property owned or rented by another producer of an agricultural commodity.

Farm employees applying either dicamba or Gramoxone (paraquat) products must have their own private applicator license as well as have completed specific dicamba and paraquat training.  Farm employees cannot apply these products using the farm owners (employer’s) license.

Private certification may be obtained by passing an open book examination at a County Extension office.  Please contact the Extension office in advance to arrange a time to take the exam.  On average, it takes two hours to complete the exam’s 75 questions.  A passing score is 75 percent or more questions answered correctly.

Once obtained, the private applicator certification expires on the individual’s birthday in the 5th calendar year after it is issued.  Renewal testing may be taken online at home. First-time initial testing however, must be done at an Extension office.  During the height of the COVID-19 crisis, first-time certification exams were available in online form, however the online format has now been limited to a few select cases.

At the time the exam is taken the Extension office will collect a $25 fee, preferably in the form of a check made out to “Kansas Department of Ag”.

The manual used for the open-book exam can be obtained in three ways:  A copy may be borrowed from the Extension office while completing the test, a copy may be purchased from the Extension office for a $10 fee, or the manual can be downloaded at no cost from the KDA website. By purchasing a private applicator manual, the producer will have the reference needed when it is time take their renewal exam.

For more information, producers should feel free to contact one of the Wild West Extension District offices.

 

Selecting Trees for Southwest Kansas

Posted on by Kylee Harrison

Selecting Trees for Southwest Kansas

By Ron Honig

Unfortunately, we have all seen trees that have for one reason or another not fared well in southwest Kansas.  Whether it be heat, wind, drought, pests or unfit soil, certain trees are prone to problems in our environment.

One of the best ways to solve this problem is to plan ahead when selecting new trees and plant species and cultivars that are known to do well in this part of the state.  To aid in proper tree selection, Kansas State University and the Kansas Forest Service have put together a publication titled “Preferred Trees for Southwest Kansas” highlighting a number of trees recommended for use under our unique set of conditions.

The publication, free to the public, provides specific tree and cultivar name recommendations for small, medium and large deciduous trees as well as several recommendations for evergreen trees that can be expected to thrive in southwest Kansas.  Each tree listed in the publication is rated on a number of environmental factors such as tolerance to drought, shade, pests and alkaline soils, but also on landscape attributes such a brilliance of autumn foliage, desirable flowers, showy fruit and ornamental bark, among other categories.  Estimated mature heights and spreads are provided as well.

Examples of small deciduous trees to consider are the Eastern (Cercis canadensis) and Oklahoma (Cercis reniformis ‘Oklahoma’) Redbuds.  The alba variety of Eastern Redbud has white flowers.  The Oklahoma Redbud is praised for having more intense flower color and some natural insect resistance.

For a medium-sized tree check out the Goldenraintree (Koelreutaria paniculata) with brilliant yellow flowers or the Chinese Pistache with beautiful red and orange fall foliage.

If you are looking far a large tree over 40 feet tall, consider a Kentucky Coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioica) but look for a male cultivar to avoid dealing with a crop of large pod-like fruit.

American Linden (Tilia Americana) and Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata) trees do fairly well in our region but will need to be watered well through dry spells.

Ponderosa Pine (pinus ponderosa) are still one of the best evergreen choices for our area due to their drought resistance.  Southwestern White Pine (Pinus strobiformis) grows well in this region but may see problems with scale insects.

Most maple trees do not grow well in our high pH soils and tend to have yellow leaves and stunted growth under the poorest soil conditions.  If you have your heart set on planting a maple tree, check out the varieties known as Caddo sugar maples which were selected and developed in Caddo County, Oklahoma.  The Caddo maples have good drought tolerance and have proved to do better in our high pH soils than traditional maples.

Look for the cultivars named “Autumn Splendor” or “John Pair”.  Although these Caddo maples have a better chance of success in western Kansas, there is still no guarantee of optimum growth.

To see more details on potential tree species and cultivars for southwest Kansas pick up a copy of “Preferred Trees for Southwest Kansas” from the Extension office or download it from the K-State Research and Extension website.

Finishing Those Last – Minute Garden Chores

Posted on by Lacey Noterman

By Ron Honig, Crops and Horticulture Agent

If you are like me, you are being forced to turn the corner and head toward winter, but still have a list of fall projects waiting to be completed. My short list includes tilling some peat moss and manure into the garden and a new flowerbed I’m trying to develop, planting a few bulbs that still need a home in the ground, collecting flower seeds from my dried plants before cutting them down and mulching around a few young trees.

We won’t even talk about the rest of the list like staining a couple new gates, searching for the leak in my sprinkler system or pouring a footer under the fence.  Apparently, some projects are just going to have to be rolled into spring.

So, what can we finish up here at the last minute?

Planting Fall Bulbs

Spring flowering bulbs we plant in the fall will winter better in the soil then trying to hold them another year.  We may not have time to work the bed under the bulbs adding organic matter and fertilizer, but we can at least turn the soil a few times with a shovel and get the bulbs in the soil before winter.  We may be wearing a heavy coat and using a flashlight, but we can probably get this chore done.  The soil is still fairly warm so we may get some root growth on the bulbs before complete winter dormancy.  Be sure to plant at the proper depth.

Cleaning Off Old Crop Residue

Depending on what you grow in your garden, it can be important to rake up the old plant stems, leaves, and discarded fruit, and then dispose of them to reduce disease and insect problems next year.  Old squash and pumpkin residue can harbor squash bugs through the winter.  Tomato plants and fruit can over-winter disease spores for next years crop.  Tilling them into the soil certainly helps but a combination of removing residue and with potential problems and tilling the finer remaining residue under the soil can provide double protection.

Tilling Organic Matter into the Garden

If you are person that likes to till their garden in the fall, there is still time to make that happen.   I piled some “clean” grass clippings mixed with leaves on the edge of my garden to incorporate into the soil.  If you are done mowing for the year, maybe there are still some leaves scattered around that could be raked up and tilled or spaded into the soil.  Adding store-bought organic matter such as peat moss is great also if you have time gather the ingredients.  If not, just work with what is readily available.

Don’t Let Free Seed Go to Waste  

If you have flowers that produced seed, there is still time to gather some of it up for use in the future.  Label some plastic sandwich bags with the flower’s name and store the bags in the refrigerator if you have room or in the garage.  If you punch a few holes in the plastic bags, it helps equalize the moisture so the seeds don’t mold.

Once you have all the seed you need, leave the rest for the birds to clean up.

Fertilizing Cool-Season Lawns

A late-fall application of nitrogen to cool-season grasses, such as fescues, feeds the roots without stimulating new growth.  The grass roots will continue to be active in the relatively warm soil after the top-growth has slowed for the winter season.  An application of 1 to 1 ½ pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn can help keep your lawn fed during the winter and promote an earlier, more even green-up in the spring.

Since this application is feeding the roots during the winter, there is still time to make this application and hopefully we get some moisture to carry the nitrogen into the soil.  A light watering by hand can help move the fertilizer into the soil as well.

Last weekend we had a light rain shower move into the area.  I pulled out my fertilizer spreader in hopes of getting enough rain to water in my nitrogen without having to start up water.  I spread my fertilizer in the rain on one last zone of my lawn I hadn’t fertilized yet.  But unfortunately, the rain finished about the same time I did so I’m hoping the snow is heavy enough to finish the job.

Either way, that chore got completed and scratched off the list.

Now is the Time to Treat Deandelions and Perennial Broadleaf Weeds

Posted on by Lacey Noterman

By: Ron Honig, Crop Production and Horticulture Extension Agent

Late October to Early November is a great time to treat perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelion and field bindweed.  After a few shots of cold weather these perennial weeds, if not damaged by sustained hard freezes, are moving nutrients to their root systems this time of year.  An application of 2,4-D or a premix containing 2,4-D and dicamba herbicides (such as Trimec or one of the Weed-B-Gone products) is easily absorbed by the weeds and translocated throughout the plant and roots.

Dandelion is a perennial plant and will survive the winter and green up again in the spring.  New dandelion plants often sprout and emerge in late summer and thus are vulnerable to a fall herbicide application.

University tests show a fall herbicide treatment on dandelions often yields over 90 percent control the following spring verses only 50 percent or less control from a single treatment performed in the spring or summer.

Field bindweed is a perennial vine with whiteish-pink flowers and arrowhead-shaped leaves.  Bindweed produces an extensive root system that once established, is difficult to decrease.  Kansas State University research shows fall herbicide applications containing the chemicals dicamba and quinclorac provide the best control of field bindweed and the best chance of weakening and reducing the root system.

Chemical premixes containing dicamba and quinclorac are readily available at your garden supply store.  To find these products you must read the portion of the label indicating the active ingredients in the product and not just the product name.

Henbit is a winter annual and sprouts in the fall up until sustained cold temperatures stop its emergence. When temperatures warm again, henbit then continues to emerge in late winter to mid-spring.  In fertile lawns, henbit can grow a foot high or more with bright purple flowers.  Unlike dandelion and bindweed, henbit will eventually die back when hot weather arrives.

Once henbit begins to grow in the spring and produce flowers, it becomes significantly harder to control with herbicides.  Fall and early spring herbicide treatments will provide the best control.

The recommended use rates provided on the herbicide product label are normally sufficient to provide excellent control when applied in the fall.  For best results, choose a day when the temperature is at least 50 degrees F during the daytime.

The one weed we are seeing so much of this time of year is prostrate spurge.  It is that circular, low growing weed that seems to grow out of every sidewalk crack and when disturbed produces a white, milky sap.  The good news is prostrate spurge is a summer annual and will freeze in the coming weeks and thus, will not require any herbicide treatments.

 

Meet Ron Honig

Posted on by Lacey Noterman

 

ron honig

Introducing-Ron Honig, Crop Production/Horticulture Agent
Ron grew up on a farm in northeast Kansas and was active in 4-H and FFA. He attended K-State where he was a member of FarmHouse Fraternity, participated on judging teams, wrote for the school paper, and graduated in 1987 with a degree in Agricultural Education.
After graduation Ron worked as a newspaper reporter in Wamego, KS for two years and then left to live in Denmark for 6 months as part of the International 4-H Youth Exchange (IFYE) program. Continue reading “Meet Ron Honig” →