We are still receiving many inquiries regarding the oak leaf itch mite (Pyemotes herfsi) and what can be done to avoid getting bitten. This is the first time in Kansas that the oak leaf itch mite has been a problem in successive years (2015 and 2016), which is likely associated with the mild winters we have experienced. Below is information associated with the oak leaf itch mite:
The oak leaf itch mite may have originated from Europe based on documentation from 1936.
There have been four major infestations of the oak leaf itch mite in Kansas: 2004, 2009, 2015, and 2016.
The oak leaf itch mite is associated with the oak marginal leaf fold gall (Figure 1), which is produced by a midge gall-maker (Macrodiplosis erubescens).
Figure 1: Oak Marginal Leaf Fold Gall
Mated females of the oak leaf itch mite prey on midge larvae.
Females enter galls through openings and inject a potent neurotoxin that paralyzes midge larvae.
A single female can produce between 200 and 300 eggs. Females deposit eggs into a pouch or ovisac that forms at the tips of the abdomen (Figure 2). Millions of individuals can be produced within a short period of time.
Figure 2: Oak Leaf Itch Mite Female Ovisac
In seven days, immatures develop into adults (7 day life cycle). As a result, the oak leaf itch mite has one of the highest rates of population increase.
Oak leaf itch mites can be dispersed via wind for hundreds of miles.
Cooler temperatures and moist conditions may result in increased populations.
Oak leaf itch mites emerge from the galls and fall from oak trees (primarily pin oak) from late July through fall. As many as 370,000 mites per day can fall from oak trees (yikes!).
The mites bite anyone under oak trees with bite marks appearing 10 to 16 hours after exposure.
In order to avoid bites, refrain from any activity under pin oak trees. Bites typically occur in the upper body region where clothing is loose; such as the neck, shoulder, and chest because the mites drop from the canopy of infested trees. The scratching, in response the bites, may result in secondary bacterial infections.
People are susceptible to oak leaf itch mite bites when: 1) raking leaves, 2) sitting under infested oak trees, and/or 3) handling pets (dogs or cats) that have been around pin oak trees.
Thorough bathing after exposure to infested oak trees, and washing clothing daily will reduce the number of bites.
Oak leaf itch mite overwinters in protected areas or within leaves/leaf litter on the ground.
Repellents such as DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) are not effective in preventing bites associated with the oak leaf itch mite.
Wearing a Tyvek® suit (Figure 3) is one of the best ways to avoid getting bitten by oak leaf itch mites.
Figure 3: Tyvek Suit To Avoid Bites From Oak Leaf Itch Mite.
18. We do not recommend burning any pin oak trees.
For more information regarding oak leaf itch mites contact the Department of Entomology at Kansas State University (Manhattan, KS).
Now is the time of year when mimosa webworm (Homadaula anisocentra) larvae (=caterpillars) are feeding and creating their protective habitat on honeylocust (Gleditsiatriacanthos) and mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) trees. The larvae (=caterpillars) are 1/2 inch in length when fully-grown, and rapidly move backward when disturbed (Figure 1).
Fig 1. Mimosa Webworm Caterpillars Feeding On Leaves (Raymond Cloyd)
The caterpillar webs leaves together on the ends of branches (Figure 2).
Fig 2. Mimosa Webworm Webbing on Branch End (Raymond Cloyd)
Webbing typically starts at the tops of trees and serves to protect caterpillars from natural enemies (parasitoids and predators) and insecticide spray applications. Heavily-infested trees are brown or scorched in appearance (Figure 3) as the caterpillars skeletonize the leaf tissue. Caterpillars eventually fall from trees on a silken strand before pupating. Mimosa webworm pupates in bark crevices or pupae will be glued to structures (e.g. building). In regards to controlling mimosa webworm infestations, it may be too late although initial damage may be minimal. Insecticides that may be used to suppress mimosa webworm populations, in which the caterpillars are exposed, include: acephate (Orthene), Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki (Dipel), spinosad (Conserve), carbaryl (Sevin), and several pyrethroid-based insecticides (e.g. bifenthrin and cyfluthrin). Read the label of each product to ensure that “webworms” are listed on the label. High-volume spray applications are essential in order to contact the caterpillars inside the protective webbing. If trees are already heavily-infested with webbing then it may be too late to apply an insecticide. If possible, selective pruning can quickly remove isolated or localized infestations of mimosa webworm.
The fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) is prevalent throughout Kansas with webs noticeable on certain trees and shrubs, which is the start of the second generation. Fall webworm nests are typically quite evident in August and September, with silk webbing enclosing the ends of branches and associated foliage or leaves (Figures 1 and 2).
Fig 1: Fall webworm nest on birch tree by Raymond Cloyd.
Fall webworm larvae (=caterpillars) are pale-green to yellow to nearly whitish in color with black spots (two per each abdominal segment).
Fig 2: Fall webworm nest and accompanying feeding damage (Raymond Cloyd)
The caterpillars are covered with long, white hairs (Figure 3). They feed on a wide range of trees, including: birch, crabapple, maples, hickory, pecan, and walnut. Fall webworm caterpillars, unlike eastern tent caterpillars, remain within the enclosed webbing and do not venture out to feed. Caterpillars consume leaves, resulting in naked branches with dirty webbing attached that contains fecal deposits (“caterpillar poop”). Although feeding by fall webworm caterpillars may ruin the aesthetic appeal of infested trees; the subsequent damage is usually not directly harmful to tree health because trees are primarily allocating resources for storage instead of producing new vegetative growth. The most effective means of dealing with fall webworm infestations is to simply prune-out the webs that enclose the caterpillars. Insecticide sprays may not be effective because the caterpillars remain in the webbing while feeding; thus reducing exposure to spray residues. If insecticides are too be used then be sure to use high-volume spray applications that penetrate the protective webbing or use a rake to disrupt or open-up the webbing so that the insecticide spray contacts the caterpillars.
I need to acknowledge Jeff Otto of Wichita, KS for bringing to my attention that fall webworm was active.
Fig 3. Close-up of fall webworm caterpillar (Raymond Cloyd)
We have received numerous inquiries regarding large wasps flying around. These are the eastern cicada killer, Sphecius speciosus, which is actually a beneficial insect due to regulating dog day cicada (Tibicen pruinosa) populations. The cicada killer hunts and provisions each cell within a nest with a cicada, which becomes the food source for young cicada killers or larvae. Cicada killers are an urban nuisance pest, especially when nesting, sometimes in large numbers, in a bare area or area around a structure. People get concerned because cicada killers resemble giant yellowjackets.
Cicada killers are approximately 2.0 inches in length and black, with yellow-banded markings on the abdomen. The head and transparent wings are reddish brown (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Adult cicada killer (Photo Credit: Daniel Gilrein)
Cicada killers are not dangerous, but they are intimidating. These are ground-nesting solitary wasps, with the female digging a 6 to 10-inch burrow (1/2 inch in diameter) in the ground; usually in sandy or loose soil. A pile of soil or sand, depending on the soil type, typically surrounds the entrance. The female locates and stings a large insect such as a cicada or katydid and then brings the immobilized “prize” back to the burrow (Figure 2).
Figure 2: Adult female cicada killer transporting paralyzed cicada to burrow (Photo Credit: Raymond Cloyd)
burrow (Figure 2).
The female then places the paralyzed insect into a chamber and lays an egg on the body of the paralyzed insect; sometimes the female places two paralyzed insects in a burrow but lays an egg on only one. The female cicada killer eventually covers the burrow, digs another, and repeats the process. The egg hatches into legless grub-like larva that consumes the paralyzed insect. Full-grown larvae overwinter in the burrow, pupate in the spring, and emerge as an adult during the summer (July and August).
Male cicada killers establish aerial territories and patrol for intruders. A male cicada killer wards off other males that enter his territory and attempt to mate with females. Anyone else, such as a human, walking into the territory is typically confronted by a very large wasp that hovers in front of the face and “zips” to the side and back. However, after determining that the “intruder” is not a rival, the male cicada killer ignores the individual. However, as a person walks across a lawn, fairway, or other area where these wasps are nesting, the process is repeated through each male’s territory. Cicada killers are unlikely to sting a person. Wasp and bee stingers are modified egg-laying devices (ovipositors), so males are unable to sting. Females may sting if crushed by being stepped on with bare feet or grabbed with bare hands.
Cicada killers are more common in areas with bare soil, so mulching, planting ground covers, or sodding may reduce potential problems. Cicada killers can also be a problem in well-maintained areas such as irrigated and regularly fertilized turfgrass. They are a major problem when nesting in areas accessible to or frequented by the public. Applying carbaryl (Sevin) or a pyrethroid-based insecticide containing the active ingredient permethrin, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and/or lambda-cyhalothrin to the burrowed area should kill females in golf course sand traps. Once the females are gone, males eventually leave. In home yards, sandboxes should be covered with a tarp when not in use since this deters cicada killers. Sand below swings, jungle gyms, or other playground equipment can be replaced with bark mulch or shredded tires.
Managing cicada killers in volleyball courts and baseball infields is more of a challenge because people with minimal clothing and exposed skin are diving and sliding onto the ground, which makes it difficult to recommend using an insecticide on a volleyball court. In these cases, the use of a geotextile fabric placed beneath the sand may create enough of a barrier to prevent cicada killers from creating burrows. The recommendations mentioned above will only be effective if cicada killer populations are not excessive.
Have you noticed that your geraniums and petunias are not blooming (flowering)? Well, the “critter” or culprit causing the problem may be the caterpillar or larval stage of the tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens). Adults are pale-green to light-brown with the forewing marked with four light wavy bands (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Tobacco budworm adult
The wingspan is approximately 38.0 mm. Adult females can lay between 500 and 1,000 eggs within 2 to 3 days. Caterpillars are 38.0 mm in length when full-grown and vary in color depending on the host plants fed upon. The caterpillars (larvae) may be black, pale brown, yellow, green, and/or red. They may also possess stripes that extend the length of the body (Figure 2).
Figure 2: Mature larva (caterpillar) of tobacco budworm
Furthermore, caterpillars may have small hairs or setae on localized sections of the body. The caterpillars tunnel into buds (Figure 3)
and feed from inside or chew flower petals, which appear ragged (Figure 4).
Figure 4: Tobacco budworm larva (caterpillar) feeding on petals of petunia flower
Damage usually increases during the growing season. Furthermore, caterpillars feeding inside flower buds on developing ovaries will destroy flowers. Be on the look-out for black fecal deposits (“caterpillar poop”) (Figure 5)
Figure 5: Black fecal deposits (“caterpillar poop”) associated with tobacco budworm larva (caterpillar) feeding
on the flower petals or on leaves below the flowers, which is a clear indication that the caterpillars are feeding. Tobacco budworm caterpillars will feed on a number of annual bedding plants besides geraniums and petunias, including: ageratum, chrysanthemum, nicotiana, snapdragon, and strawflower. Ivy geraniums may be less susceptible than other geranium types. The way to deal with tobacco budworm populations is to apply insecticides before the caterpillars tunnel into the buds using materials containing the following active ingredients: spinosad, cyfluthrin, permethrin, or bifenthrin. Be sure to thoroughly cover all plant parts as tobacco budworm caterpillars will also feed on plant leaves.
You can find more information on tobacco budworm feeding on petunia in the following article:
Davidson, N. A., M. G. Kinsey, L. E. Ehler, and G. W. Frankie. 1992. Tobacco budworm, pest of petunias, can be managed with Bt. California Agriculture 46 (July-August): 79.
We have received inquiries regarding cucumber and squash plants wilting and collapsing, and a recent visit to the Manhattan Community Garden (Manhattan, KS) provided evidence that the larvae of the squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae) are indeed active inside plants. Squash vine borers feed on squash, pumpkin, cucumber, and muskmelon.
Adults are “clear wing” moths 5/8 inches long. The front wings are covered with scales whereas the hind wings are transparent because they do not have scales. Hind wings have red-brown hairs along the edges. The body is orange-red, with gray bands and three black markings along with orange-red hairs on the abdomen (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Squash vine borer adult
Moths are active during the day with females depositing eggs on the stem near the soil level or on stems or petioles when plants begin to flower. The eggs are red-brown, flattened, 1/30 inches in diameter, and are typically located at the base of plants (Figure 2).
Figure 2: Squash vine borer eggs located at base of plant
A single female is capable of producing up to 200 eggs. Larvae that hatch from eggs are white, with a dark head capsule. Young larvae are 1/4 to 3/4 inches in length and taper toward the end of the abdomen (Figure 3).
Figure 3: Young larva of squash vine borer
Mature or fully-grown larvae are 1.0 to 1.5 inches long (Figure 4).
Figure 4: Mature larva of squash vine borer larval feeding
Larvae that hatch from eggs immediately tunnel into the base of plants. The larvae feed for 30 days in the plant stem, and increase in size as they mature. Typically there is only one larva per stem; however, multiple larvae may be present in a single tunnel in the stem. Mature larvae leave plants and burrow into the soil to pupate by constructing brown, silkened cocoons in which they overwinter. Squash vine borer overwinters as a mature larva in the cocoon that is located 1.0 to 2.0 inches in the soil. In early spring, the adult (moth) emerges from the soil. Squash vine borer has one generation in Kansas.
At this point, squash vine borer larvae are feeding within the internal vascular tissues inhibiting the plant’s ability to take-up water and nutrients; consequently, resulting in sudden wilting of vines and plant collapse (Figure 5).
Figure 5: Plants wilting due to squash vine borer larval feeding
Once the larvae are inside the plant, there is little that can be done to control them or prevent damage. The tunnels inside infested plants are packed with moistened frass (fecal matter) (Figure 6).
Yellow-green sawdust-like frass can also be found around feeding sites at the base of vines or plants (Figure 7)
Figure 7: Frass or fecal matter near tunnel entrance of squash vine borer larvae
,which will be a direct indication that larvae have entered the plant.
Since the larvae are feeding inside the plant there is not much that can be done to kill the larvae; however, there are number of plant protection strategies that can be implemented during the remainder of the growing season, including: sanitation and physical control.
Sanitation: remove and dispose of all wilted plants before the larvae leave and enter the soil. Discard all plant debris such as vines and fruits after harvest.
Physical control: rototilling in fall or spring will directly kill squash vine borer pupae or bring the pupae to the soil surface where they are exposed to cold weather or predation by birds. In addition, the process of deep plowing will bury the pupae deeper in the soil profile thus inhibiting adult emergence. Another technique that may have limited use in large plantings but may be feasible for smaller plantings is to locate infested stems and vines, create slits at the base of the plant, and then use tweezers to remove and destroy the larvae inside. The plant base should then be covered with moist soil, which stimulates the production of secondary vines and/or root growth; thus helping the plant to re-establish.
There is a new up-dated extension publication on squash vine borer (MF3309) that contains current information on plant protection with images of the insect (both adult and larva) and plant damage. You can download a PDF from the following website:
–by Dr. Raymond Cloyd
There are two new extension publications available: one on squash bug and one on squash vine borer. Both publications contain up-dated information on management, and clear images of the different life stages of the insect pests and subsequent plant damage. The links for both are provided below:
Japanese beetle adults are out in full-force in certain regions of Kansas feeding on one of their favorite host plants…roses. The means of dealing with the adult stage of this insect pest are limited, however, and have been for many years, with the use of insecticides being the primary plant protection strategy. Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica is native to Japan and was first reported in the United States in 1916 in the state of New Jersey. Since then, Japanese beetles have spread throughout the country from Maine to Georgia with permanent establishments in nearly every state east of the Mississippi River and several western states west of the Mississippi River. Japanese beetles are established in eastern and central portions of Kansas and are slowly moving further west. The adult is one of the most destructive insect pests of horticultural plants in both landscapes and gardens. The larvae or grub is a major turfgrass pest in home lawns, commercial settings, and golf courses.
Japanese beetle adults are 9/16 inches long and metallic green with coppery-brown wing covers (Figure 1).
Fig 1: Close-up of Japanese beetle adult.
There are approximately 14 tufts of white hair present along the median of the abdomen (Figure 2).
Fig 2: Japanese beetle adult. Note tufts of white hairs on median of abdomen.
Adult Japanese beetles emerge from the soil and live from 30 to 45 days feeding on plants over a four-to-six-week period. They feed on many ornamental plants including trees, shrubs, vines, herbaceous annual and perennials, and of course—roses. Plant placement in the landscape and volatiles emitted by plants are factors that influence adult acceptance. Furthermore, Japanese beetle adults produce aggregation pheromones that attract individuals (both males and females) to the same feeding location. Adults may fly up to five miles to locate a feeding site; however, they tend to fly only short distances to feed and lay eggs.
Japanese beetle adults feed through the upper leaf surface (epidermis) and leaf center (mesophyll), leaving the lower epidermis intact. They usually avoid feeding on tissue between leaf veins, resulting in leaves appearing lace-like or skeletonized (Figure 3).
Fig 3: Japanese beetle adult feeding damage.
Adults are most active during warm days, feeding on plants that are exposed to sunlight throughout the day, which is likely why roses are a susceptible host plant because they require at least six hours of direct sunlight. Japanese beetle adults also start feeding at the top of plants, migrating downward after depleting food sources. Japanese beetle adults aggregate in masses on rose flowers (Figure 4).
Fig 4: Japanese beetle adults aggregating on rose flower.
Although adult beetles feed primarily on flowers, they will also feed on leaves (Figure 5).
Fig 5: Japanese beetle adults feeding on leaves.
Japanese beetle adults chew holes in flower buds, which prevent flowers from opening or cause petals to fall prematurely. Moreover, adults will consume entire rose petals, and feed on the pollen of fully-opened flowers.
Japanese beetle adult management involves implementing a variety of plant protection strategies, including: cultural, physical, and insecticidal. Cultural involves maintaining healthy roses through proper irrigation, fertility, mulching, and pruning, which are important in minimizing any type of stress; thus possibly decreasing susceptibility. Also, removing weeds such as smartweed (Polygonum spp.) that are attractive to Japanese beetle adults will at least alleviate infestations. Physical is associated with hand-picking or collecting Japanese beetle adults from roses before populations are extensive. The appropriate time to hand-pick or collect adult beetles is in the morning when ambient air temperatures are typically “cooler.” Adults can be easily collected by placing a wide-mouthed jar or bucket containing rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol) or soapy water underneath each adult, and then touching them. Adults that are disturbed fold their legs perpendicular to the body, and fall into the liquid and are subsequently killed. This procedure, when conducted daily or every-other-day, particularly after adults emerge, may substantially reduce plant damage. The use of Japanese beetle traps is not recommended since the floral lure and synthetically-derived sex pheromone may attract more adult beetles into an area than would “normally” occur. Adult beetles may also feed on roses before reaching the traps, which increases potential damage.
Spray applications of contact insecticides will kill Japanese beetle adults. Repeat applications will be required; especially when populations are excessive. Furthermore, thorough coverage of all plant parts will increase effectiveness of the application. The insecticide carbaryl (Sevin) and several pyrethroid-based insecticides including those containing bifenthrin or cyfluthrin as the active ingredient may be used to suppress Japanese beetle adult populations. However, since most of these insecticides are also directly harmful to many natural enemies (parasitoids and predators) their continual use may lead to secondary pest outbreaks of other pests including the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). Moreover, these insecticides are directly harmful to pollinators (honey bees and bumble bees). Therefore, applications should be conducted in the early morning or late evening when pollinators are less active. In general, systemic insecticides, are not effective because Japanese beetle adults have to feed on leaves and consume lethal concentrations of the active ingredient. If extensive populations are present, then damage to plants may still occur.
The battle or war against Japanese beetle adults requires patience, persistence, and diligence in order to prevent adults from causing substantial damage to roses and other susceptible plants.
For more information on Japanese beetle and other pests of roses consult the following publication:
Compendium of Rose Diseases and Pests (second edition). 2007. APS Press. The American Phytopathological Society, St. Paul, MN.
Green June beetle (Cotinis nitida) adults are actively flying around and “bumping” into people and objects. Adults are 3/4 to 1.0 inches in length, and velvety-green, tinged with yellow-brown coloration (Figure 1).
Fig 1: Close-up of adult green June beetle.
Green stripes with yellow-orange margins extend lengthwise on the front wings. The underside of the body is distinctly shiny and metallic green or gold. Adults fly like “dive bombers” over turfgrass for several weeks in mid-summer. The green June beetle has a one-year life cycle, and overwinters as a mature larva (grub). Adults emerge in late-June and are active during the day, resting at night on plants or in thatch. The adults produce a sound that resembles that of bumble bees. Adults will feed on ripening fruits (Figure 2) and may occasionally feed on plant leaves.
Fig 2: Adult green June beetle feeding on fruit.
The male beetles swarm in the morning, “dive bombing” to-and-fro above the turfgrass searching for females that are located in the turfgrass (they are desperately seeking a mate. Females emit a pheromone that attracts males. Eventually, clusters of beetles will be present on the surface of the soil or turfgrass with several males attempting to mate with a single female (I think this qualifies as an “insect orgy.” Mated females that have survived the experience lay a cluster of 10 to 30 eggs into moist soil that contains an abundance of organic matter. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks in early August and the young larvae feed near the soil surface. The larvae feed primarily on organic matter including thatch and grass-clippings; preferring soils that are excessive moist. Larvae are 3/8 (early instars) to 1.5 (later instars) inches in length, and exhibit a strange behavioral trait—they crawl on their back (Figure 3) because that they have a constant itch.
Fig 3: Larva (grub) of green June beetle crawling on its back.
It is the time of year you have all been waiting for, that is, dealing with that
“infamous” of insect pests known as the bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis). Throughout Kansas, bagworm eggs have hatched and the young caterpillars (“munching machines”) are out-and-about feeding on both broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs. Bagworms were first considered a pest of conifers but over the years they have expanded their host range to include a number of broadleaf plants, including: rose, honeylocust, and flowering plum. So, what is the best way to deal with bagworm caterpillars and thus prevent them from causing damage? Hand-picking any small caterpillars (along with their accompanying bag) and placing them into a container of soapy water will kill them directly. This practice, if feasible, will quickly remove populations before they can cause substantial plant damage. I recommend that everyone should consider having a weekend “bagworm hand-picking party” with prizes awarded to those individuals that collect the most bags J. These “bagworm hand-picking parties” will be a way to enhance family quality time J.
For those less interested in hand-picking, there are a number of insecticides labeled for use against bagworms including those with the following active ingredients (trade name in parentheses): acephate (Orthene), Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki (Dipel/Thuricide), cyfluthrin (Tempo), lambda-cyhalothrin (Scimitar), trichlorfon (Dylox), indoxacarb (Provaunt), chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn), and spinosad (Conserve). Many of these active ingredients are commercially available and sold under different trade names or as generic products. However, several insecticides may not be directly available to homeowners. The key to dealing with bagworms when using insecticides is to apply early and frequently enough in order to kill the highly susceptible young caterpillars that are feeding aggressively on plant foliage (Figure 1).
Figure 1
Older caterpillars that develop later in the season, in the bags (Figure 2), are typically more difficult to kill with insecticides. In addition, females feed less as they prepare for reproduction; thus, reducing their susceptibility to spray applications and any residues. The bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki is active on young caterpillars; however, the active ingredient must be consumed to be effective, so thorough coverage of all plant parts and frequent applications are required to avoid having to deal with later life stages.
Figure 2
This compound is sensitive to ultra-violet light degradation and rainfall, which reduces residual activity. Spinosad is the active ingredient in a number of homeowner products, including: Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray; Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew; and Monterey Garden Insect Spray. These products work by contact and ingestion (stomach poison) although they are most effective when ingested and can be used against older or larger bagworm caterpillars (Figure 3).
Figure 3
Cyfluthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, trichlorfon, chlorantraniliprole, and indoxacarb may be used against both the young and the older caterpillars. However, thorough coverage of all plant parts, especially the tops of trees and shrubs, where bagworms commonly start feeding, and frequent applications are required. The reason why multiple applications will be needed when bagworms are first detected is because bagworms “blow in” (called ‘ballooning’) from neighboring plants. If left unchecked, bagworms can cause significant damage, thus ruining the aesthetic quality of plants. In addition, they may actually kill plants, especially evergreens since they do not usually produce another flush of growth, and newly transplanted small plants.
If you have any questions regarding the management bagworms contact your county horticultural agent, or university-based or state extension entomologist.
