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What’s What on Juniper Shrubs?

By: Judy O’Mara

You can drive to any grocery store, fast food restaurant or mall in Kansas and see a spreading juniper shrub planting. They are pretty well adapted to Kansas but a few problems show up.

Winter damage is common following cold temperatures and desiccating winter winds. Die back tends to show up on the ends of the branches during December through February. If the damage isn’t too bad, it can be pruned out and with some added care, the shrubs may recover.

Snowy and Salty

In addition to cold temps last winter, there was lots of snow. According to Assistant State Climatologist, Mary Knapp, Manhattan Kansas received 27.8” of snow during the recent winter, which is 11.1” over the normal 16.7” snowfall. So what does this have to do with junipers? Well, with snow comes slippery sidewalks and driveways, which in turn can lead to the use of salt or de-icing products. They work pretty well to keep people safe slipping and breaking a hip, but sometimes the products can damage nearby shrubs.

It is not uncommon to see salt damage or browning on the side of juniper shrubs closest to the sidewalk in the spring. In this case, salt leached from the sidewalk and burned the roots closest to the edge. There is a nice article on which ice melts are appropriate to use at the K-State Johnson County Extension web site. Something to keep in mind for next winter.

Pictured above on the left, the juniper shrubs are experiencing salt burn from the sidewalk. Pictured above on the right is a heavy concentration of salt crystals.

Wet and More Wet

I got caught in a down pour on a recent trip to Hiawatha, KS.  The area creeks were flooded and topped the roads in a few places. It was an awesome sight, plus a little bit scary. It’s been a fairly common phenomenon this spring and there are a number of articles out there on the impact of flooding on landscape plants. I thought I would throw in my two cents, as well.

One of the more serious challenges for junipers plantings is damage due to ‘wet feet’. It is not uncommon during heavy spring storms to see shrubs floating in a pool of water. Aggravating factors may be locations with heavy clay soils that drain poorly or even locations that have a compaction layer not far from the soil surface. In either case, prolonged expose to wet soils will damage the roots and cause a collapse of the planting. I tend to think of this as center decline. Sometimes the entire plant will die, and sometimes just a portion (frequently the center). So, if a large section of the planting is going out, it may be a root health issue. Juniper shrubs never recover from this type of damage. It is really important to select a well-drained site for juniper plantings.

Branch Tip Die Back

I know this juniper shrub looks bad but, it’s actually okay. The damage here is caused by a fungal disease called Kabatina tip blight. It causes a die back of the branch tips, usually 2-8” with symptoms showing up between February and mid-June. It can cause a scattered branch die back or it can hit every single tip, making the shrub look like it is going to die. But no, like magic the planting recovers. By late June, the dead tips dry up and fall, slowly improving the appearance of the shrub. Some creeping junipers are particularly susceptible.

As always, there is the question ‘What can I spray?’. There are two reasons why that is not a practical option. One, the infection period is in the fall, so by the time you see the symptoms it  is too late to spray. Two, the disease is basically a cosmetic issue. In most years, it shows up as scattered dead tips (barely noticeable). In years with a prolonged cool, wet spring Kabatina tip blight symptoms can be dramatic. But…summer eventually arrives and with warmer temps and drier conditions disease activity halts. At that point, the dead tips start dropping off and the planting starts to look better. So best management option? Do nothing, or maybe rip it out and plant something less susceptible.

Pictured above, you can see daffodils, so you know it is early spring and conditions are favorable for Kabatina tip blight. Pictured on the right is the same planting later in the season. As you can see, all of the dead tips have dropped off of the plant.

 

Tree and shrub update: managing impact of floods, and why is there heavy seed set in some trees this spring?

Flooding and Trees by Ward Upham

Trees differ markedly in their ability to withstand flooding. Some trees have mechanisms in place to provide oxygen to the roots of plants with water saturated soils and others do no. However, most trees will maintain health if flood waters recede in 7 days or less. It also helps if water is flowing rather than stagnant. If the roots of sensitive trees are flooded for long periods of time, damage will occur including leaf drop, iron chlorosis, leaf curl, branch dieback, and in some cases, tree death. Another danger of flooding is the deposition of sediment. An additional layer of silt 3 inches or more can also restrict oxygen to
the roots. If possible, remove deep layers of sediment as soon as conditions permit. This is especially important for small or recently transplanted trees.
Try to avoid any additional stress to the trees this growing season. Ironically, one of the most important practices is to water trees if the weather turns dry. Flooding damages roots and therefore the root system is less efficient in making use of available soil water. Timely waterings are vital to a tree’s recovery. Also be diligent in removing dead or dying branches that may serve as an entry point for
disease organisms or insect pests. The following information came from the US forest Service.

Trees Tolerant of Flooding: Can survive one growing season under flooded conditions. Red maple, silver maple, pecan, hackberry, persimmon, white ash, green ash, sweetgum, sycamore, eastern cottonwood, pin oak and bald cypress.

Trees Moderately Tolerant of Flooding: Can survive 30 consecutive days under flooded conditions. River birch, downy hawthorn, honeylocust, swamp white oak, southern red oak, bur oak, willow oak and American elm.

Trees Sensitive to Flooding: Unable to survive more than a few days of flooding during the growing season.  Redbud, flowering dogwood, black walnut, red mulberry, most pines, white oak, blackjack oak, red oak and black oak.

 

Lots of Flowers, Lots of Seeds by Ward Upham

I have never seen lilacs bloom like they did this year.  Also, elms and maples have produced enormous amounts of seed in some areas.  In certain cases, this has delayed leaf emergence, especially in the upper portions of the tree. Why did this happen?  What triggered it?
We know that stress can cause trees and shrubs to put more energy into seed production.   The strategy seems to produce lots of seed in case the “mother” plant dies.  This large expenditure of energy means that there was less energy left over to push out leaves in the spring resulting in delayed leaf emergence. So, let’s look at the likely cause. Remember the flowers and seeds that were produced this year came from buds that were produced last year during the growing season. Therefore, it was a stress that came last year that caused the problem.  Actually, I think it was a stress from the Fall of 2017 through much of the Spring of 2018 that triggered the plants. In the Manhattan area, we had adequate rainfall through October of 2017, but then virtually nothing until May of 2018.  This drought was
severe enough that root systems were likely damaged so that even when rainfall returned, the plant was under moisture stress, especially in the upper portions of the tree.  This stress, then, stimulated the plant to set an abnormally high number of fruit buds resulting in tremendous flowering and seed production this year.
What do we do about this?  First, don’t assume a tree is dead if leaves don’t appear immediately.  Also, don’t assume the top portion of the tree is dead if it is slower to leaf out than the lower portions of the tree.  Give the tree a few more weeks and see what happens. Next, these trees and shrubs don’t have a lot of energy reserves left so they need to be given extra care.  Primarily this means watering as needed.  Keep in mind that too much water is as bad as too little.
Roots need to breathe; they need oxygen.  With the excessive rains much of Kansas has received recently, it may be a while before watering needs to be done.  Just don’t wait too long as the damaged root system will not be as efficient in taking up the water the plant needs.
So when do you start watering? Use a screwdriver to try to penetrate the soil
under the tree.  If it is difficult to push the tang of the screwdriver into the soil, it is time to water.  Water enough so that the soil is moist to a depth of one foot. Use a long-tanged screwdriver, a wooden dowel or a metal rod such as a section of rebar or electric fence pos to test. It will stop when it hits dry soil.

Please share your feedback with the K-State Turf Team!

Thank you for your engagement with the K-State Turf Team! To help us further improve this program, we would like to gather your responses to the questions below. This project is a research study regarding our blog and social media resources as well as some general questions about Integrated Pest Management (IPM).

The survey includes 13 brief questions, and we anticipate it will take about 5 minutes of your time.

Your participation in this survey is voluntary, and you do not have to respond to any questions you do not want to answer. This information will only be used for program evaluation purposes, and you will not be identified in any way by the information you provide. We value your input. Thank you for your continued support of the K-State Turf Blog and e-Newsletter.

You can fill out the anonymous survey by clicking here:

https://kstate.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_8jMKy0duwoOTogt

Hot off the press….Grub Management in Turfgrass Using Insecticides

This new publication by Dr. Raymond Cloyd addresses factors that influence insecticide effectiveness for grub species and offers recommendations for control. To learn more about maximizing the effectiveness of grub control in Turfgrass, be sure to visit K-State Research and Extension Bookstore. 
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KGCSA Cliff Dipman Internship Award

The KGCSA Cliff Dipman Internship Award consists of two $2,000 awards to Kansas State University students working at a golf course whose superintendent is a member of the KGCSA. One will be directed to a student doing an internship at a 9-hole golf course, and one doing an internship at an 18-hole facility. Applications will be reviewed by the KGCSA Board of Directors. All decisions of the committee will be final. Applicants will be notified of their status by March 30 of the year submitted.

Requirements:
• Must already be enrolled in a 4-year undergraduate turfgrass program at Kansas State University.
• Must intend to complete a 3- or 6-month internship at a golf course in the state of Kansas whose superintendent is a member of the KGCSA.
• One award will be available for a 9-hole intern and one for an 18-hole intern.
• Return completed application to: KGCSA Awards Program, 1712 Claflin, 2021 Throckmorton, Manhattan, KS 66506 or cdipman@ksu.edu by March 15, 2019.
• Application information can be found here

About the Namesake:
Cliff Dipman was the Golf Course Superintendent at Manhattan Country Club for 31 years. He has served as a mentor to countless students who have become successful golf course superintendents in Kansas and across the United States. Year after year, Cliff recognized the importance of the internship in complementing academics

Thank you, Exhibitors!

Dear Kansas Turfgrass Conference Exhibitors:

We would like to express our appreciation for your contribution to the
outstanding trade show at the 68th annual Kansas Turfgrass Conference in
conjunction with KNLA. We recognize the value of the trade show to our
conference and to the turfgrass industry. Your willingness to provide
information to the participants is very important.

The total registration over the 2 ½ days was about 556 attendees.

We hope the extra trade show time we built into the program helped, but
we would appreciate any feedback you might have for improvements.

The dates for the 2019 Kansas Turfgrass Conference – December 4, 5 & 6
at the Hilton Conference Center in Manhattan, Kansas. We hope you will join us at this new conference location.

The 2019 Kansas Turfgrass Field Day will be held on Thursday, August 1
at the K-State Research & Extension Center in Olathe.

If we can ever be of assistance to you, please let us know. Again,
thanks for your outstanding support!

Have a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

Christy & Cliff Dipman

Jared Hoyle
Jack Fry
Steve Keeley
Megan Kennelly
Cheryl Boyer

Turf conference innovation showcase booth – share your favorite turf and landscape hacks!

Share your tips and tricks!

Do you have any special tips or tricks to managing turfgrass? Have you come up with your own method, style, or piece of equipment?

Do you have any unique methods for motivating employees, or working with difficult customers?

If so – email me at kennelly@ksu.edu and we’ll post them at the Kansas Turf Conference. Send me a description of your method, or perhaps a photo. We’ll display them and have a vote to determine the best innovation! Winner will get a prize 🙂

 

 

 

 

Mow-mulching fall leaves

The leaves are starting to fall. What to do with all that biomass? Don’t send it to the trash pile!

Many municipalities have local composting options. Another option is using a mower to mulch those leaves back down into the turf. Commercial landscape companies – as you work with homeowners for fall lawn/leaf services have you talked to your clients about these options?

For more information:

https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/lawns/mulch-mowing-fall-leaves.html

Here is a video:

http://kansashealthyyards.org/index.php?option=com_allvideoshare&view=video&slg=tired-of-raking-try-mowing&Itemid=345

 

Pruning Trees and Shrubs in the Fall

(Ward Upham, KSU Horticulture & Natural Resources. Original source: http://www.ksuhortnewsletter.org/)

 

Pruning in August can stimulate new growth that is less hardy during the winter.  But what about pruning at this time of year?

Woody plants move sugars and other materials from the leaves to storage places in the woody portions of the plant just prior to leaf fall and we would like to maximize those stored energy reserves.  Even pruning later in the fall can cause a problem by reducing the cold hardiness of woody plants.  Dr. Rich Marini at Penn State Extension has written , “Based on everything that has been published we can conclude that woody plants do not attain maximum cold hardiness when they are pruned in the fall. Trees are affected more by heavy pruning than light pruning.”  However, this does not mean that woody plants pruned in the fall will necessarily suffer winter damage.  In most cases, I think you can get away with the old adage of “prune whenever your pruners are sharp.”  However, damage can occur if we have a sharp drop in temperature before plants are completely hardened off.  Also, marginally hardy plants are more susceptible to winter damage, especially if pruned in the fall.  Though light pruning and removal of dead wood are fine this time of year, you may want to delay severe pruning until spring.

Consider pruning to be “light” if 10% of less of the plant is removed. Dead wood does not count in this calculation.  Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. We normally recommend that spring-bloomers be pruned after flowering.

Shrubs differ in how severely they can be cutback. Junipers do not break bud from within the plant and therefore should be trimmed lightly if you wish to keep the full shape. Overgrown junipers should be removed. On the other hand, there are certain shrubs that can be pruned back severely during the spring. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, sweet mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Just remember that spring is the correct time to do this, not now.

(Ward Upham)