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Tag: weeds

Don’t Moss with Me

Silvery thread moss has been an increasing problem on golf course putting greens over the past couple of decades.  Moss is a bryophyte, and that makes it different from most plants.  It doesn’t have roots, but rather rhizoids that serve as an anchor, but aren’t as efficient at absorbing water and nutrients compared to roots.  It also grows across a wide range of temperatures.  It can be actively growing when creeping bentgrass or annual bluegrass appears dormant in late fall or early spring.  It can also experience severe drought for months (or years), and regrow once water returns; no other weeds we deal with in turf are that resilient.  Research was done on silvery thread moss over several years at K-State by graduate students Dr. Cole Thompson (now Director of Research for the USGA) and Dr. Zane Raudenbush (Dr. Raudenbush just left The Ohio State University to join Davey Tree Company).  Here are some things to know regarding how management of putting greens will influence moss that came from their research:

Things that make it happier:

  • Mowing lower promotes more moss encroachment. For example, research showed that mowing at 0.125 in vs. 0.157 in resulted in greater moss populations.
  • Areas that are thin are susceptible to moss encroachment, so maintain turf density.
  • Moss loves water. If you’re watering frequently, you’ll favor its growth.
  • Soluble nitrogen applied as a liquid on a frequent interval (spoon feeding) encourages the growth of moss.

Things that help suppress it:

  • Mow higher and maintain turf density.
  • Water less frequently while still meeting the needs of the turf.
  • Fertilize with granular products that allow slower N release.
  • Core aerify, verticut, and topdress. Although some may think they could spread moss with cultivation, research has shown that moss populations can be reduced by these practices, which is due in part because the moss colonies are disturbed and allow creeping bentgrass to occupy those areas.
  • Apply products for moss suppression. The most popular product used for this is Quicksilver, which contains the active ingredient carfentrazone-ethyl and is labeled for use on greens.  Follow the label on Quicksilver for effective moss suppression (don’t expect complete control); using this or other products labeled for moss in combination with aforementioned cultural practices will be the best approach.

Here are some useful resources on moss:

An article on the K-State webpage that give more information on moss biology and control:  https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/moss_2015.pdf

A video by Dr. Zane Raudebush, former K-State graduate student who conducted research on moss here and as a faculty member at The Ohio State University:  https://www.turfnet.com/turfnet-tv.html/winfieldtv/raudenbush_silvery_thread_moss/

A summary of the research Dr. Raudenbush did at K-State in Golf Course Management magazine:  https://www.turfnet.com/turfnettv.html/winfieldtv/raudenbush_silvery_thread_moss/

Some specifics regarding N fertilization and moss:

https://www.golfdom.com/nitrogen-fertilization-and-silvery-thread-moss/

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow the K-State Turf and Landscape Team on Twitter @KSUTurf

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

 

 

Nonchemical Weed Control Methods for Landscape Beds

By Dr. Cheryl Boyer

Dr. Chris Marble at the University of Florida is a weed management whiz. He’s a machine with research and writing and a kind friend and teammate of mine from graduate school at Auburn University. Naturally, I’m pretty excited and proud to see a paper he has authored published. I’m going to kick off my series of posts for the K-State Turf and Landscape Blog by reviewing some of his journal articles with clarity on which practices apply to Kansas and which may not (since they have a few different weeds in Florida).

First up is the first in a two-part review of weed control practices for landscape planting beds. We all know that fighting weeds is a significant part of work in both landscape and turf worlds. Chemicals vary for both of those applications, and we’ll get into that next time. For now, nonchemical weed control is where we’ll start. What comes to mind? If you’re thinking mulching and hand weeding, you’d be right. However, some best practices may impact other weed management choices and hopefully result in reduced herbicide application.

Types of nonchemical weed control:

Type Example Pros Cons
Mechanical disruption Mowing, hand-pulling, hoeing, tilling Depending on the application, it may be the most aesthetically pleasing approach. Time-consuming, labor-intensive, disrupts soil structure, may propagate weeds.
Physical barriers Geotextiles, landscape films, or fabrics In combination with mulch, it can be very effective Reapplication required, material may be destroyed by weeds growing on top of the fabric, does not contribute to soil health, in Kansas wind can be problematic
Cultural control Mulching, plant selection, fertilization and irrigation placement, thermal treatment Great for soil health (organic mulches), aesthetically pleasing, reasonable weed control when applied at least 3-inches deep Mulch type matters, reapplication, and scouting required, inorganic mulches do not contribute to soil health, and rubber mulch leaches zinc and other heavy metals into the soil.

 

Mulching is the A-#1 best choice for nonchemical weed control the average landscape bed. However, material selection is essential. For organic mulches, stick with large chunky (coarse) pine bark or pine needles and apply it at least 3-inches deep. Hardwood bark can be acceptable, but some species (and it’s not always easy to know which species is in the product you’re purchasing) have allelopathic chemicals which could damage ornamental plants. Fine-textured materials like compost and screened bark may encourage weed growth, so avoid those materials or refuse to accept a bark load that is too fine if you plan to use it for landscape mulch. These materials do break down over time which is good for soil health but requires reapplication.

Inorganic mulches are not ideal. They’re expensive, generally heavy, difficult to apply (and challenging to remove), and do not break down over time to contribute to soil health. Rock mulches, in particular, may bounce heat back up into the canopy of ornamental plantings, contributing to plant decline. Rubber mulches leach zinc and other heavy metals into the soil, which can also harm plants. I do not recommend inorganic mulches.

Now let’s address landscape fabric, geotextiles, etc. I don’t recommend plastic material because research has documented that water, air, and nutrients can’t get down to the soil, so ornamental plants don’t have access to the elements of life. While landscape fabric can be adequately effective, it is not usually so because weeds grow on top and through if not appropriately managed. Mulch cannot degrade into the soil (enhancing soil health and facilitating the mulch material staying in place). That’s an important point in Kansas, where the wind often whips loose mulch away from planting beds, particularly if landscape fabric is applied underneath. At that point, the landscape fabric is often unsightly, flapping in the wind with no mulch to hold it down (unless the “mulch” is rock). Landscape fabric is only effective for a short period of time and does not control perennial weeds. There may be some applications where landscape fabrics make sense, but I don’t recommend it in general.

Plant selection: we’re talking about perennial groundcovers now. If they grow densely enough and don’t die back to the ground during the winter, they may shade out some weeds. Of the studies mentioned in Dr. Marble’s review article, the ones that grow well in Kansas include:

  • Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis): 1 to 1.5 feet tall, 1.5 to 2.5 feet wide, June bloomer, full sun to part shade (can handle almost full shade, particularly in the afternoon), tolerates rabbit and deer. May be an aggressive self-seeder, remove spent flowers to avoid spreading too much.
  • Catmint (Nepeta xfaassenii): 1 to 2 feet tall, 1.5 to 3 feet wide, blooms all summer, full sun to part shade, tolerates deer, dry soil, and shallow, rocky soil. Sterile.
  • Moss phlox (Phlox subulata): up to 0.5 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide, flowers March to May, full sun, attracts butterflies, tolerates deer, drought, erosion. Need good drainage.
  • Goldenrod (Solidago sphacelata): 1 to 1.5 feet tall and wide, flowers in the fall, attracts butterflies, tolerates deer, drought, erosion, clay soil, dry soil, and shallow-rocky soil. Can colonize through rhizomes and self-seeding (needs deadheading to manage).
  • Sheep’s burr (Acaena inermis ‘Purpurea’): 1 to 2 feet wide, 1.5 to 3 feet wide, blooms June to August, prefers full sun and dry soil (low maintenance), tolerates deer, drought, and shallow-rocky soil.

Of course, we have to think carefully about using plant choice as a nonchemical weed suppression tool because some plants can become invasive (Liriope spicata, for example). Be aware of the Kansas noxious and invasive weed lists; you can find them here: https://agriculture.ks.gov/divisions-programs/plant-protect-weed-control/noxious-weed-control-program. Side note: did you know we have Kudzu in Kansas? It’s true, sadly. Kudzu is an interesting plant, but that is a story for another day.

Hand weeding and cultivation are always an option, although labor-intensive (and thus costly). Without other control measures, weeds will likely pop up again quickly.

Here’s a fun one: Thermal weed control. That’s right, steam, hot water, flame from a propane burner, or solarization. Thermal weed control has limited applications because you need to be careful about the areas around where you use the tool. Ideally, the use of these tools will be centered on hardscapes and other non-planted areas to eliminate large perennial and grass weeds. Solarization is a long-term process where plastic is used to cover areas for an extended amount of time to kill weeds and weed seeds. It requires reapplication and could damage nearby ornamentals or other tools like hoses or irrigation heads. These are likely not your best choices for nonchemical weed control and additionally can be dangerous. Use these as a last resort, get training, read manuals, and BE CAREFUL!

Lastly, consider fertilizer and irrigation placement. In container-grown nursery crop settings, weed pressure can be reduced when fertilizer is dibbled or banded within the container substrate profile. Fertilizer placement makes a lot of sense because if Nitrogen is easy to access, weeds will go to town (and your ornamentals may starve). Interestingly, sub-irrigation in container studies can be adequate for weed control. However, studies of sub-irrigation in landscape beds have proven it to be an ineffective practice for managing weeds.

These choices depend a great deal on the project, application, and client tolerance for weeds. The best approach is likely to apply various weed control methods, which may include chemical controls for the longest-lasting effect. We’ll cover those next time.

Marble, S.C., A.K. Koeser, and G. Hasing. 2015. A review of weed control practices in landscape planting beds: Part I—Nonchemical weed control methods. HortScience 50(6):851-856. https://doi.org/10.21273/HORTSCI.50.6.851

Developing a Weed Control Program

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

There are many important factors to consider when you are developing a weed control program.  Here is a list of information you should have to help you develop your program.

  1. Turfgrass species
  2. Area needing to be treated.
  3. Correct identification of the problematic weeds.
  4. The time of year the weeds are present.
  5. Determine why the weeds are invading and correct the conditions or cultural practice that are leading to the weed invasion.
  6. Select a chemical that is effective and label for control of the weeds you are treating.
  7. Follow all label instructions!!!!!!!
  8. Apply at the correct time and rate.
  9. Apply herbicides evenly.
  10. Follow up with repeat applications if recommended on the label.

This is also great information to have if you can’t figure out why a weed control method didn’t work.  For more information on diagnosing why a weed control method didn’t work, click here – https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/i-sprayed-but-i-didnt-kill-the-weed/

Information in this article is from Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals.

Patton, A.J., M. Elmore, J. Hoyle, J. Kao-Kniffin, B. Branham, T. Voigt, N. Christians, A. Thoms, G. Munshaw, A. Hathaway, T. Nikolai, B. Horgan, L. Miller, X. Xiong, W. Kreuser, R. Gaussoin, D. Gardner, Z. Raudenbush, D. Li, P. Landschoot, D. Soldat, and P. Koch. 2019 Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals. Purdue University Extension Publication. TURF-100. pp. 128.

Get your copy here – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=20239

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Research UPDATE – Influence of Herbicide Combinations and Sequential Applications on Windmillgrass (Chloris verticillata) Control

(By Nic Mitchell and Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Windmillgrass (Chloris verticillata Nutt.) populations commonly infest turfgrass systems in the mid-west, which result in aesthetically unacceptable turfgrass stands. Windmillgrass is a perennial monocot bunch-type grass. It often spreads by stolons and by its panicle shape seed which acts much like tumble weed.

Prior research found that Pylex (topramezone) and Acclaim Extra (fenoxaprop) result in fair to minimal control of windmillgrass with a single application. Tenacity (mesotrione) which, labeled for two applications for best control of windmillgrass, recommends the second application should be three weeks after initial application. Additionally, studies have shown the addition of triclopyr to HPPD inhibitor herbicides increases windmillgrass control in a controlled environment.

The goal of this research was to determine the effect of a sequential postemergent herbicide applications and the addition of triclopyr to HPPD inhibitors herbicides on windmillgrass control.

Research trials were initiated in 2018 at Rocky Ford Turfgrass Research Center in Manhattan, Kansas. Windmillgrass was infested in a low maintenance tall fescue (Schedonorus arundinaceus) system. Seven herbicide combinations were applied as a single application or with a sequential application and non-treated control was included for comparison for a total of 15 individual treatments. All herbicide treatments were applied on August 16, 2018 and treatments that received a sequential application were applied on September 9, 2018. Herbicide treatments consisted of Pylex (topramezone) at 2 fl oz/a, Tenacity (mesotrione) at 8 fl oz/a, Acclaim (fenoxaprop) at 39 fl oz/a, Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a, Pylex (topramezone) at 2 fl oz/a + Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a, Tenacity (mesotrione) at 8 fl oz/a + Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a, Acclaim (fenoxaprop) at 39 fl oz/a + Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a, and a nontreated control. Data collection consisted of visual percent windmillgrass cover (0-100%) and were transformed to percent windmillgrass control for presentation purposes. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was performed in SAS 9.4 (SAS Institute Inc., Cary, NC) and means were separated according to Fisher’s protected least significant difference (LSD) level at 0.05.

We found that Pylex (topramezone) applied at 2 fl oz/a resulted in 87% windmillgrass control at 8 weeks after treatment. A single application of Pylex (topramezone) at 2 fl oz/a + Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a and Tenacity (mesotrione) at 8 fl oz/a + Alligare Triclopyr 4 (triclopyr) at 32 fl oz/a resulted in 96% and 97% windmillgrass control 8 weeks after initial treatment, respectively. All treatments that received a sequential application on September 9, 2018 excluding the non-treated control and Acclaim (fenoxaprop) at 39 fl oz/a provided 100% windmillgrass control at 8 WAT. Acclaim (fenoxaprop) at 39 fl oz/a applied on August 16, 2018 followed by an application at 39 fl oz/a on September 9, 2018 resulted in 88% windmillgrass control.

Table 1. Windmillgrass (Chloris verticillata Nutt.) control 8 weeks after initial application from single and sequential applications at Rocky Ford Turfgrass Research Center in Manhattan, KS; 2018.

Treatment Herbicide Rate Application Date Controla
___%___
1 non-treatedb 4 Cc
2 Pylex + MSOd 2 fl oz/a + 1% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 87 A
3 Tenacity + NISd 8 fl oz/a + 0.25% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 9 C
4 Acclaim Extra + NIS 39 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/100 gal Aug. 16, 2018 16 C
5 Triclopyr 32 fl oz/a Aug. 16, 2018 64 B
6 Pylex + Triclopyr + MSO 2 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 1% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 96 A
7 Tenacity + Triclopyr +NIS 8 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 0.25% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 97 A
8 Acclaim Extra + Triclopyr +NIS 39 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/100 gal Aug. 16, 2018 63 B
9 Pylex + MSO 2 fl oz/a + 1% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 fbe Sept. 9, 2018 100 A
10 Tenacity + NIS 8 fl oz/a + 0.25% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 100 A
11 Acclaim Extra + NIS 39 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/100 gal Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 88 A
12 Triclopyr 32 fl oz/a Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 100 A
13 Pylex + Triclopyr + MSO 2 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 1% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 100 A
14 Tenacity + Triclopyr +NIS 8 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 0.25% v/v Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 100 A
15 Acclaim Extra + Triclopyr +NIS 39 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/a + 32 fl oz/100 gal Aug. 16, 2018 fb Sept. 9, 2018 100 A

a Ratings were conducted 8 weeks after initial application; October 11, 2018.

b Non-treated control contained approximately 65% windmillgrass cover throughout the research trial. 4% control was observed due natural declining of windmillgrass populations to environmental considerations on October 11, 2018.

c Treatment means followed by a common capital letter are not significantly different according to Fisher’s protected LSD (α= 0.05).

d MSO, methylated seed oil and NIS, non-ionic surfactant were added to treatments according to herbicide manufacture recommendations.

e fb, followed by.


Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

NEW – Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals – 2019

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

With new herbicides entering the market, new techniques for controlling weeds, and with more and more difficult to control weeds the “Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals” manual has been updated to address many of these issues.  Check out the 2019 edition!  It is a must have for every turfgrass manager!

To get your copy click here – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=20239

 

Yellow Nutsedge Control

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

As I talk to turfgrass professionals across the state I hear that some are getting plenty of rain while others are getting none. This time of the year we think that if we are getting some precipitation we will have yellow nutsedge popping up everywhere. Well that is not always true. Yellow nutsedge does favor moist soils but it can also grow in well-drained sites.

One of the easiest ways to identify yellow nutsedge is by a couple special features;

  • erect
  • persistant
  • yellow inflorescence
  • gradually tapering leaves to a sharp point
  • tubers not in chains
  • triangular stem

To control yellow nutsedge, if you can get applications out before tuber production then you will see increased control.  But beware, yellow nutsedge will continue to grow as long as the environment is favorable for growth, so more than one application maybe necessary.

If using a herbicide application timing is critical.  During mid summer yellow nutsedge starts making tubers and if you apply herbicides before tuber production you will get better control.  If you wait until the yellow nutsedge is big and starting to make tubers then you will be playing catch-up all year. So sooner is better.  Don’t wait for it to get too big.

Here are some options for yellow nutsedge control for turfgrass professionals;

  • sulfentrazone
  • halosulfuron
  • iodosulfuron
  • mesotrione
  • bentazon
  • triflozysulfuron
  • flazasulfuron
  • sulfosulfuron

There are many different products out there that contain these active ingredients so just make sure you have an active ingredient that has yellow nutsedge control! Also make sure you check for turfgrass tolerances.

****Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application.****

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Return of the Goathead – Puncturevine

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Return of the Goathead – Sounds like a horror movie! Well, right now I do feel like it is “Return of the Goathead”. Just about everywhere I look I see a goathead. Goathead is also known as puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris). It is a summer annual broadleaf weed that can cause headaches for many people.

 

This weed is a prostrate mat-forming weed that can produce many burs with sharp spines. This weed if invading a lawn, athletic field, playground and parks can cause injury to children and animals if they fall on or step on the sharp spines. It can also be found in disturbed areas as fields, pastures and roadsides. Good news is that many of the broadleaf herbicides are effective.

 

****Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application.****

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Guess what KS city is listed as #7 in the Top 10 Worst Cities for Weeds and Disease for 2018?

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

As I was looking through some news articles I came across this one that caught my eye.

 “Top 10 Worst Cities for Weeds and Disease in 2018”

I couldn’t wait to click the article and see what the National Association of Landscape Professionals listed as the top 10 worst cities for weeds and disease.  It was also pretty interesting how they came up with these cities.  Check it out!

Guess what KS city is listed as #7?

http://www.kltv.com/story/37912381/weed-watch-the-top-10-worst-cities-for-weeds-and-lawn-disease-in-2018

 

Homeowner Do-It-Yourself Lawn Calendar Reminders!

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Earlier this year I wrote two blog posts that listed out both a cool- and warm-season lawn calendar for homeowners.  If you are anything like me then I have already forgot what I was suppose to do so sometimes it is good to have a reminder.

Cool-season Lawn Calendar Reminder 

June through Mid-July
Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. It must be watered in before it becomes active.

Warm-season Lawn Calendar Reminder

May – August 15
Fertilize with 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application. Follow the recommendations on the bag. More applications will give a deeper green color, but will increase mowing and may lead to thatch buildup with zoysiagrass. Bermudagrass can also have problems with thatch buildup but thatch is less likely with Bermuda than zoysia. Bermudagrass – Use two to four applications. Zoysiagrass – Use one to two applications. Too much nitrogen leads to thatch buildup.

One Application: Apply in June.
Two Applications: Apply May and July.
Three Applications: Apply May, June, and early August.
Four Applications: Apply May, June, July, and early August.

Remember to look and see if you are using a quick release nitrogen source or a slow release nitrogen source.  If you use a quick release source then it is immediately available but only lasts a couple weeks.  Thats why you would have to make a couple of applications like it is listed above.  If you are going to use a slow release source it will tell you on the bag how long the product will last.  Therefore, you might not have to make as many applications.

So generally you want to use a total of 2 to 4lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year for bermudagrass and 1 to 2 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year for zoysiagrass.

Buffalograss – Fertilize with 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during June. More applications will give a deeper green color. If it is felt that a second application is needed, apply in July. Do not exceed more than 2 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per YEAR for a home lawn.

June
If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid by mid July. Imidacloprid can be applied as early as mid May if there are problems with billbugs or May beetle grubs. These products kill the grubs before they cause damage. They are effective and safe but must be watered in before they become active.

June is also a good time to core aerate a warm-season lawn. Core aeration will help alleviate compaction, increase the rate of water infiltration, improve soil air exchange and help control thatch.

For the full Do-It-yourself Lawn Calendars click the links below

Warm-Season – https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/homeowner-do-it-yourself-lawn-calendar-for-warm-season-grass/ 

Cool-Season – https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/homeowner-do-it-yourself-lawn-calendar-for-cool-season-grasses/

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Knotweed – Last year it was April, Now its February!

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Last year I did one of my first Turfgrass Selfie Series on knotweed control in April.  The knotweed had germinated and started to mature.  Just a couple weeks ago I was walking into my office and I saw knotweed already germinating.  (See picture below – Photo taken Feb. 22, 2017)

So needless to say.  If you didn’t get your preemerge out and you have a history of knotweed it is time to go out and attack the knotweed and other broadleaf weeds you have lingering around.  These weeds are easier to control now when they are young compared to when they get mature.

Below is the Knotweed Control Turfgrass Selfie Series Video I did last year but here are the take home messages;

  • Early germinating summer annual
  • Likes compacted soils/flooded areas
  • 2,4-D = fair control
  • 2,4-D + triclopyr or dicamba = excellent control
  • metsulfuron can be used in warm-season turf
  • PRE applications must be done in the Fall

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf