Kansas State University

search

K-State Turf and Landscape Blog

Category: Weeds

Bentgrass Putting Green Fertility – Helping or hurting silvery-thread moss?

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

At Rocky Ford Turfgrass Research Center in Manhattan, KS we have two bentgrass putting greens.  On one of them we “try” to maintain as a common putting green with typical disease, weed and fertility programs.  On the other one we don’t apply any fungicides at all to see what disease we can grow.  On that same putting green we are growing a nice crop of silvery-thread moss as we aren’t doing anything to help suppress or control it.

When I came on board here at KSU in 2013, the KSU Turfgrass Faculty and graduate students were really diving into figuring out programs to help control or suppress silvery-thread moss in bentgrass putting greens.  Quick to find out, controlling moss is not just an application but a program and part of that program is fertility.

I quickly went through some of the past research reports on the KSU Turfgrass Website (https://www.k-state.edu/turf/research/index.html) and came across a short report on the influence of nitrogen source and spray volume on the establishment of silvery-thread moss.  Establishment! Establishment!  Why are we studying the establishment?  Well, knowing what helps establishment also tells you what is going to promote growth of silvery-thread moss.

As Drs. Raudenbush and Keeley explain in the research report, “the practice of spraying small quantities of soluble nitrogen at a relatively high frequency my promote silvery-thread moss growth because the moss lacks a vascular system of removing water and nutrients from the soil.”  Apply small quantities of soluble nitrogen at relative high frequencies is a common practice for managing bentgrass putting greens, so we maybe making the problem worse.

To summarize the project that was conducted in the greenhouse, spraying soluble nitrogen increased moss cover compared with the untreated control and ammonium sulfate has the highest moss cover at all the ratings dates.  Comparing ammonium sulfate to urea, ammonium sulfate caused more than a threefold increase in moss dry weight (At 7 weeks after the initial treatment the moss was harvested, dried and weighed.) and there was no difference between urea and the water only control.

There are many other factors to consider when looking at suppressing or controlling silvery-thread moss including but not limited to; watering, herbicide applications, topdressing and promoting healthy bentgrass. But remember fertility, as it does play a roll in silvery-thread moss management.

For the full report check out Page 12 of the 2014 Kansas State University Turfgrass Research Report – https://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/bitstream/handle/2097/20427/Turfgrass2014.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y

Should we be hitting the panic button on goosegrass control?

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Not too long ago I received a text from a friend of mine with a picture of goosegrass and the caption, “goosegrass emergence reported in Salina, KS in areas w/o PRE.”  With the mild temperatures and just now seeing crabgrass germinate in some thin areas where no preemergence has been applied, I thought to my self, “Oh no.”  I then posted the picture on Twitter to let everyone know what was going on in the area.

One of my good friends, Scott, down in Georgia commented “Should we hit the panic button?”

To answer that question honestly… I’m not sure.  Then I went back and looked at the picture.  There was a set of keys in the picture to help show the relative size of the goosegrass and on the key was a “panic” button that is commonly on keyless entry vehicles. Ironic?

So should we hit the panic button?  I am not sure but I do think that means we need to keep an eye out and know that goosegrass is on its way if not already germinated and especially in areas that haven’t been applied with a preemergent herbicde.

Goosegrass (Eleusine indica) is a summer annual weed that typically germinates after crabgrass in the spring.  That is about when the soil temperatures consistently reach approximately 60° F.  Like crabgrass, goosegrass is best controlled with a preemergence herbicide.   Herbicides that contain the active ingredient oxadiazon work very well.  Other preemergence herbicide efficacy can vary.

But as it seems like everyone has already put down preemergence herbicide so, you have nothing to worry about.  Well what if you didn’t, or there is break through?  There are some POST application control options.

First, Know you turfgrass species.  Your herbicide selection is going to vary greatly depending on species.

If you have cool-season turfgrass then you can use fenoxaprop (Acclaim Extra), fluazifop (Fusilade II), topramezone (Pylex), or MSMA (golf courses and sod farms only!).  You will probably have to do more than one application if the goosegrass is tillered out.  Sulfentrazone (Dismiss) is also effective on goosegrass if it has not tillered out yet.

Bleaching of goosegrass from topramazone application

Creeping Bentgrass

For all you golf courses out there that have creeping bentgrass fairways it is going to be a little bit more difficult because the herbicides that work best tend to injure  the turf.  1-Tiller or smaller can be controlled with fenoxaprop (Acclaim Extra) at 3.5 fl oz/A but you will need to re-apply every two weeks to make sure you are applying to small plants.

As crazy as it sounds a herbicide that has commonly been used for broadleaf weeds has shown control on goosegrass.  SpeedZone (2,4-D +dicamba + MCPP) has shown control but a follow up[ application is going to be needed 30 days after initial application.

Topramezone (Pylex) can be used on bentgrass at lower rates (0.25 fl oz/A) but definitely might need a repeat application at 21 days

Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass

Now if you have bermudagrass or zoysiagrass then you can use Tribute TOTAL (thiencarbazone + foramsulfuron + halosulfuron).  Fusilade II and Acclaim Extra that works in cool-season grass can also be used on zoysiagrass.  If you mix these products with triclopyr (Turflon Ester Ultra or Triclopyr 4) then you will get better results.

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Sandbur Control for Turfgrass Professionals

Posted on by jahoyle
Photo credit – https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Grassy%20Sandbur.pdf

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

It is that time of year where we are going to start seeing more and more summer annual grassy weeds emerge, especially if you didn’t get a preemergent herbicide down.  One of that problematic summer annual weeds is sandbur (Longspine sandbar – Cenchrus longispinus; field sandbar – Cenchrus incertus).  These sandbur species are often found in sandy soils but can grow in a wide range of soil conditions.  They can appear to look like crabgrass and foxtail but the seedheads are spike-like racemes with bur-like fruit.  This is the major problem.  These seedheads can cause physical injury to a person, animals and equipment.

There is good news.  Like many of the other summer annual weeds you can control sandbar with preemerge herbicides if you follow the recommendations for preemergent crabgrass control.

But if you have an escape or didn’t treat with a preemerge herbicide this year you have a couple of options;

  • Herbicides that contain fenoxaprop (Acclaim Extra, Last Call), MSMA or topramazone (Pylex) are most effective (≥ 90% control).
  • To achieve 75-90% control use; asulam (Asulox), fluazifop (Fusillade II, Ornamec), imazapic (Plateau), sethoxydim (Segment II) and sulfentrazone + imazethapyr (Dismiss South).
  • Atrazine (AAtrex) and simazine (Princep) provide fair control (50-75%)
  • The flowing herbicides have resutled in some activitly but ≤50% control.
    • 2,4-D+quinclorac+dicamba (Momentum Q, Quincept)
    • carfentrazone+2,4-D+MCPP+dicamba (Speedzone)
    • ethofumesate (Prograss)
    • foramsulfuron (Revolver)
    • imazaquin (Image 70DG)
    • mesotrione (Tenacity)
    • metsulfuron (Manor, Mansion)
    • metsulfuron + rimsulfuron (Negate 37WG)
    • pronamide + quinclorac (Cavalcade PQ)
    • pronamide (Kerb)
    • quinclorac (Drive XLR8)
    • quinclorac + sulfentrazone +2,4-D + dicamba (Q4 Plus)
    • sulfentrazone (Dismiss)
    • sulfentrazone + quinclorac (Solitare)
    • trifloxysulfuron (Monument)

For more information on sandbur and many other weeds, check out Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals 2019 Edition – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=20239

****Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application.****

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

 

Little Barley Control Options (or Option)

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

I was walking through some of our research plots (with waders on due to all the rain) and I came to a nice patch of little barley.  It was lush!  I thought to myself, “How did this get so bad?” but, then I noticed there wasn’t any turf in the area at all.  Little barley (Hordeum pusillum) is a winter annual that is many times confused with foxtails because the seedbed look similar. To see the differences in seedbeds click here –  https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/tag/little-barley/

But the problem is I have lots of little barley and what do I do;

1.Promote healthy dense stand of turfgrass. Maybe overseed this spring/early summer if you have to depending on your situation and turfgrass species. Definitely overseed in the fall if you have cool-season turfgrass.

2. Use a preemergence in the fall.

3. Can use Certainty (sulfosulfuron) in warm season turfgrass but typically don’t.

4. Do nothing….  Seems like a trick question but this species will thin and die as temperature increase in the summer.

So there are a couple of options but if you do have little barley it is probably because the turfgrass isn’t doing well.

For more information on little barley and many other weeds, check out Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals 2019 Edition – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=20239

****Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application.****

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

 

Yellow Nutsedge Reported Across KS

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

 

With all the rain across the state we tend to forget about how that can influence our weed population.  One weed that loves flooded and wet soils is yellow nutsedge. It has been reported in many different locations across KS and now is the time to do something about it.  The earlier the better!

One of the easiest ways to identify yellow nutsedge is by a couple special features;

  • erect
  • persistant
  • yellow inflorescence
  • gradually tapering leaves to a sharp point
  • triangular stem

To control yellow nutsedge, if you can get applications out before tuber production then you will see increased control.  But beware, yellow nutsedge will continue to grow as long as the environment is favorable for growth, so more than one application maybe necessary.

If using a herbicide application timing is critical.  During mid summer yellow nutsedge starts making tubers and if you apply herbicides before tuber production you will get better control.  If you wait until the yellow nutsedge is big and starting to make tubers then you will be playing catch-up all year. So sooner is better.  Don’t wait for it to get too big.

Here are some options for yellow nutsedge control for turfgrass professionals;

  • sulfentrazone
  • halosulfuron
  • iodosulfuron
  • mesotrione
  • bentazon
  • triflozysulfuron
  • flazasulfuron
  • sulfosulfuron

There are many different products out there that contain these active ingredients so just make sure you have an active ingredient that has yellow nutsedge control! Also make sure you check for turfgrass tolerances.

For more information on yellow nutsedge and many other weeds, check out Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals 2019 Edition – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=20239

****Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application.****

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Not many orchardgrass control options in turfgrass

Posted on by jahoyle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(By Jared Hoyle; KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Orchardgrass is a cool-season coarse textured, upright, bunch-type perennial grass. This grass is frequently used as a forage grass but may be a contaminant in low quality seed mixtures. The leaves are smooth, wide ¼ to ½ inch and taper to a boat-shaped tip. It is easily identified by its tall membranous ligule. The leaf color is light gray, dull-green and it does not form a dense turf canopy even when well watered and fertilized. It is not compatible with any fine leaf textured turfgrasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass or turf-type tall fescue.

This grass usually invades lawns by planting contaminated seed lots or in newly established lawns that were once pastures. It grows well in full sun or partial shade but will not tolerate heavy traffic or close mowing heights. What makes this grass so objectionable aside from its color is its rapid vertical growth rate which requires more frequent mowing in order to keep a uniform turf surface. Additionally, the leaf tips have a tendency to shred rather than mow cleanly, even with sharp mower blades.

Now controlling orchardgrass is a different story.  Just because we can identify it doesn’t always mean it is easy to control.  Unfortunately, there no selective control options that we can use in cool-season turfgrass systems.  Many different chemistries (mesotrione, chlorosulfuron, metsulfuron, and more) have been tested but didn’t provide satisfactory control.

So with that being said the options out there right now are physical removal, blah… Or non-selective herbicides like glyphosate. Remember that glyphosate will kill everything and not just your orchardgrass.

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Information in this article was from the 2019 Edition of the Turfgrass Weed control for Professionals and the Lawn Problem Solver Website.

May Weekend Warrior Reminders

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

This time of year we can be caught of guard when it comes to maintaining our lawn.  Today we have some reminders about maintaining cool-season turfgrass for all you weekend warriors out there!

  • Reminder – Avoid frequent watering to reduce weeds germination and disease.
  • May is time for fertilizing cool-season turfgrass that is going to be irrigated. (See information below from Ward Upham.)
  • Mowing Tip – Only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and make sure you mow your lawn at the recommended mowing height. For more information on mowing your lawn – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF1155.pdf 
  • Mowing Tip #2 – Retuning your clippings to the lawn can return up to 25% of fertilizer nutrients that would be lost if clippings were to be removed. – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF2110.pdf

Fertilize Irrigated Cool-season Lawns in May By Ward Upham

May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as
tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout
the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer
dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization.
May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of
growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the
fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth
than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen
sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth,
which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches.
Relatively few fertilizers available to the homeowner supply ALL of the
nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is
widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the
retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and
any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an
exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is
quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic
fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by
weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be
applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more
expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by
weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product
per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a
portion of the nitrogen as slow-release are fine to use as well. Be sure
to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less
expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the
application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5
lb nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June.

***** Reminder –  These are recommendations for cool-season turfgrass species!*****

For more information on tall fescue lawns – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=1460

For more information on Kentucky bluegrass lawns – https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/Item.aspx?catId=545&pubId=816 

Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum)

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Photo taken by Brooke Garcia

This time of year all across Manhattan, KS we are seeing star-of-bethlehem popping up in lawns.  The reports that I get are from older lawns… Might be something I need to look into.  Maybe, this plant escaped from traditional landscape plantings and is now taking over the lawns?

Photo taken by Brooke Garcia

It is a very pretty plant with showy, 6-petaled white flowers that have a distinct green stripe underneath. It is a perennial bulb that sometime appears to look like clumps of grass.  The leaves are linear and smooth, flat in cross-section and have a with midrib.

This plant also likes shady and moist areas of the lawn.  With the recent moisture and more on the way we are not short of moist areas in the lawn around Manhattan right now.

Although it is has very distinctive characteristics it can be confused with other plants that are commonly found in lawns; crowpoison (Nothoscordum bivalve), spring beauty (Claytonia virginica), wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense).

For chemical control there are couple of options.  Both sulfentrazone and carfentrazone have shown to be very effective.

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Weed Control Update

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

As I look back through blog posts from Spring time in previous years, I notice a repeated theme – Crabgrass, Knotweed and Wild Garlic.

So instead of “reinventing the wheel this year” and writing a new blog post I am going to post previous years posts for these weeds.  There is lots of great information about these weeds and how to control them. (Links to information below the photograph.)

This way I can focus on adding a weed to this list that is become more and more persistent in Kansas. (Stay tuned!)

Crabgrass

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/more-than-you-ever-want-to-know-about-preemergent-herbicides/

Photo credit – Auburn University Turfgrass – http://cses.auburn.edu/turfgrass-management/weed-identification/wild-garlic/

Wild Garlic

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/stinks-dont-it-wild-garlic-control-in-turfgrass/

Knotweed

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/not-your-fathers-knotweed/ 

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Weekend Warrior Turfgrass Lawn Care

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Finally I think we have turned the corner into Spring.  With that, I see more and more of my neighbors, and myself, working in the yard.  I get excited when the turf starts to turn green.  But before I get too carried away I want to get out on the right foot and planning is everything.  To help help you plan out your lawncare program below are monthly calendars for tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, buffalograss, bermudagrass and zoysiagrass.

Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass Lawns

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/a-homeowner-step-by-step-guide-to-bermudagrass-and-zoysiagrass-lawns/

Buffalograss Lawns

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/a-homeowner-step-by-step-buffalograss-lawn-guide/

Tall Fescue and Kentucky Bluegrass Lawns

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/a-homeowner-step-by-step-tall-fescue-and-kentucky-bluegrass-lawn-guide/

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf