By Drew Ricketts, Extension Wildlife Specialist and Danny Lindahl, Natural Resource Video Production Specialist
Moles are an insectivorous mammal species that can cause extensive damage in turfgrass situations like yards, parks, or golf courses. Dr. Drew Ricketts, a wildlife management extension specialist with Kansas State University, developed this guide to help you manage problem moles. This is a written adaptation of Dr. Rickett’s guide that can be viewed in full below.
Moles use their large, scallop-shaped front feet to burrow underground in search of their insect prey, pushing up the ground with their head in the process and forming telltale ridges in the surface of the soil. Moles will sometimes burrow deeper underground where the soil can’t be pushed up. In that case, they will move the soil above ground to the clean out their burrow causing molehills.
When people are affected by mole damage they will often go to various sources for solutions. Many solutions that are purported to work, but in the experience of Dr. Ricketts, some of the gimmicky solutions will work some of the time, but the most effective way to manage nuisance moles is to trap them. In his own words: “you need to learn to trap moles or learn to live with them.”
Moles will usually create two types of runs that appear as damage to turfgrass. They will create longer, straighter sections of run, and areas with lots of runs that are turning and forking off much more frequently. The runs with many forks are the areas where moles are fed in and will often only be used once. Feeding areas usually have the most damage within a given area. The longer, straighter sections of run are usually used to move between feeding areas and are often used multiple times. When removing moles, even though most of the activity is in feeding areas, it’s best to set traps in the traveling runs because the moles will come back through them more often. It is also important to identify active runs for trapping by using test holes. To create a test hole, poke a hole in the top of the run so that the open space below the ridge of soil is visible. In an active run, test holes will be re-plugged by moles within 24 hours. Setting traps in active traveling runs is a key to successful mole trapping.
It’s important to choose a trap that is safe for the area that is being trapped. So if the trap is set in an area that has a lot of human activity, or there are children around, the harpoon style trap may not be the best choice.
The following guide demonstrates the process of setting the three most common types of mole traps, a scissor style trap, a harpoon style trap, and an in-line trap that is set within an active mole run.
The Victor Out-of-Sight mole trap is a scissor style trap with two sets of jaws, a trigger, and a dog that holds the jaws open when set. These traps are available to rent or borrow at some extension offices around Kansas. To set this trap, make sure the dog is over the backside jaw, use the setters to squeeze the back of the jaws together opening the jaws. Then, lift the trigger so it engages the dog and holds the trap open. It is very important to avoid putting any fingers between the jaws of the trap when lifting the trigger, so make sure to reach in from the side.
To set the trap in the run, place the trap over the run so that the jaws are straddling the ridge created by the run. Use a masonry trowel, or similar flat-bladed digging device to clear an unobstructed path for the jaws to pass through. Locate the position where the trigger will contact the top of the run and use your thumb to push down to make an obstruction in the mole’s path that will press the trigger when moved. Finally, while holding up on the back of the trigger, push the trap down into the soil so that the trigger is firmly pressing on the obstruction made earlier, and the jaws are down in the ground straddling the run.
If there’s more than an inch between the top of the tunnel and the outer surface of the ridge formed by the run, it’s best to remove some of the soil so the trap can be placed correctly. To make a deep set, remove a segment of soil as wide as the trap and deep enough for the jaws of the trap to fully straddle the run. Then, make an obstruction in the run that the mole has to push through, set the trap in the run, and back-fill the soil so no light can get in and make the mole avoid that area of the run.
The scissor style traps are easy to check because if they’ve been triggered, the trap will be sprung above ground, and the dog will be loose.
The mole eliminator trap is a scissor style trap that has a slightly different method for setting that may be easier for some users. To set this trap, push the jaws down into the run and press down on the top of the trap several times to clear dirt and make room for the jaws. Then push all the way down on the top of the trap with your foot until it clicks open. When full pressure is applied, the jaws will lock open, and the trigger will push into the top of the run making an obstruction.
The trapline products mole trap is a trap that’s designed to sit in a mole’s run rather than straddling it on either side like the scissor style traps. This trap is directional so it’s best to set one in each direction of the mole run to catch moles traveling towards the set from either direction in the run. Setting this trap requires less hand strength than scissor style traps, but it can be more complicated. To set this trap, make sure the dog is pointing up, open the loose jaw and engage the short arm of the dog in the loose jaw. Then engage the long arm of the dog in the loop on the trigger. Then, wind the spring and engage that spring into the spring rod. If these steps are a little confusing, there is an easy-to-follow explanation at 7:09 in the KSRE Wildlife Management YouTube video “How YOU can Trap Moles Successfully!”
In the mole run, dig out a section about six inches long and try to keep the soil together to be placed back into the run once the traps are set. This helps stop any sunlight or air movement that might tip off the mole that their run may be unsafe. Place each trap with the jaws pointing down the tunnel in either direction, stake the traps in place, and replace the soil plug making sure to block as much sunlight and air as possible.
The harpoon style trap includes a frame that’s bent into a U-shape, the trigger, a spring, and a dog that engages the trigger and the top plate. To set the harpoon style trap, first make sure that the dog is outside of the trigger, then pull on the handle at the top of the trap. When the spring is fully compressed, release some tension and the dog will engage the top plate and hold it in place until the trigger is pressed. Then, make an obstruction by pressing down the top of the run, line up the harpoons over the run, and while holding the trigger in place, press the trap down so the trigger is firmly against the obstruction.
It’s a good idea to mark any traps or test holes so they can be found easily when checking them the next day. Because moles can be active at any time of day, it may be best to check traps twice a day to quickly catch more moles and prevent further damage.
Mole damage can be extensive, but there aren’t usually more than a few moles per acre so trapping is a very efficient way to prevent further damage. For a more thorough explanation, check out the full video on trapping moles on the KSRE Wildlife YouTube channel and reach out to Dr. Ricketts if you have any questions.