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K-State Turf and Landscape Blog

1, 2, 3…..look for bagworms!

Posted on by Brooke Garcia

By Brooke Garcia

The June 11, 2021 issue of the Extension Entomology Newsletter featured a recent post on Bagworms. The cool weather may have slowed the development of these landscape insect pests, but they are still going to be present this summer in the Kansas landscape on broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs.

Learn more in the Entomology Newsletter here: https://entomology.k-state.edu/doc/extension-newsletters/2021/KSInsectNewsletter%2010.pdf

Photo by: William Fountain at the University of Kentucky

K-State’s Sodcast: Interview with Loren Breedlove, former superintendent at Kansas City Country Club

Posted on by Jack Fry

 

 

 

 

 

The is the second edition of “K-State’s Sodcast,” which is a short interview with an individual to hear information about their involvement in the turf profession.  Several of these will be put together each year.  In this interview, Loren Breedlove, former golf course superintendent at Kansas City Country Club, talks about the 42 years he spent employed at one golf course. These interviews are done to highlight professionals who have been supportive of K-State, not to advertise their accomplishments or their business.  I’d like to acknowledge the help of Gerry Snyder with K-State’s Division of Information Technology for helping put this together.

CLICK HERE TO WATCH (about 15 minutes)

 

K-State’s Turf and Ornamentals Field Day is On!

Posted on by Jack Fry

K-State’s Turf and Ornamentals Field Day is happening!  It will be held at the Rocky Ford Turfgrass Research Center, 1700 Barnes Road, on Thursday, August 5th.  Due to the pandemic (which is receding for now!), we will have a change of structure for our tour of research plots and conversations with faculty and graduate students. Please note that the format and guidelines are subject to further change or cancellation, based on KSU and state/local health policies.

  • Online advanced registration is strongly recommended. REGISTER ONLINE HERE
  • Details on program and “fillable” registration form (if you don’t want to register “online”) available HERE
  • Parking at Faith E Free Church – 1921 Barnes Road, Manhattan, KS.
  • There will be no formal welcoming session this year.  Tours will leave from the registration area about every 15 minutes beginning at 8:30 a.m. and running until 10 a.m.
  • Vendors will be present from 8 a.m. until about 1 p.m.  If you’re a vendor with interest in attending or sponsoring lunch or a “recorded video,” check HERE
  • You can arrive anytime between about 8:15 am (or earlier) and 9:45 am to join one of the tours.
  • Eight stops with different presenters, each running about 15 minutes.
  • No donuts or coffee will be provided, but a boxed lunch will be available when your plot tour finishes.  Take your boxed lunch and find your own space to eat – there will be some chairs spaced out in shaded areas. Or, feel to take it “to go.”

We hope to see you on Thursday, August 5!

Drive Your Car Without a Fuel Gauge?

Posted on by Jack Fry

By Wes Dyer (Ph.D. student)

The dreaded check engine light popped on this past month. Bound to happen to a 15-year-old vehicle, pushing a quarter of a million miles. I immediately stopped by a local auto parts store and connected a diagnostic scanner to find a faulty fuel level sensor. Not the worst diagnostic error, but I knew I had to be more aware of the miles I drive between refueling. It reminded me of a quote by Dr. Dana Lonn, former managing director for technology at Toro Company, in which he states, “controlling an irrigation system without soil moisture data, is like driving a car without a gas gauge.” I realized more than ever what he meant as I found myself making more frequent stops at the gas station to refuel this past month, just to be sure.

The rootzone profile is much like a fuel tank, where adequate water, or “fuel”, is needed in the profile to maintain a healthy turfgrass stand. How do you know when to refill your soil profile? Setting irrigation clocks to specific days of the week to water is prone to lead to overwatering, like myself now, making more stops than necessary to refuel the vehicle. Even calculating daily evapotranspiration rates (which are estimates of the water used by turfgrass) fail to accurately account for moisture in the soil profile. Utilizing technology and devices to determine soil moisture is much like a fuel level sensor that can aid in determining when the plant needs water. This is where implementing technology in the landscape has advantages. The greater period you can stretch between irrigation applications, the greater chance a rainfall event will occur which will serve as “free water”, though I do not anticipate free gas events.

Soil water sensors are like a fuel gauge – necessary! Both wired and wireless are available.

For the past three years, I have been working to determine how to best employ technology in the turf landscape. Soil moisture sensors are one of many tools we can use to precisely determine when irrigation is needed to maximize water savings, increase turfgrass quality, provide consistent playing conditions, and minimize overwatering. Research results from 2020 indicated soil moisture sensor-based irrigation yielded 84% water savings compared to frequency-based irrigation (2x week-1) and 72% savings compared to deficit evapotranspiration (60% ET) irrigation. These significant water savings were achieved by simply monitoring soil moisture and watering only when necessary to “refuel the tank.” For more information as reference to this project, see this past article (Development of Irrigation Scheduling Techniques that Conserve Water in Turfgrass Landscapes using Soil Moisture Sensors and Weather Data. Kansas Turfgrass Foundation Newsletter, September 2019).

Throughout my turfgrass management career, I have had the opportunity to work with many great golf course and athletic field facilities across the United States. Many of those managers took on the philosophy to be data-driven because it removes the guesswork. The more data available at one’s fingertips the better decisions one can make. The key is not to become overwhelmed with the data, however, but to use the data to aid in improving your decisions or as a “tool in the toolbox”. Regarding irrigation, automated systems may become more widespread in the future and use sophisticated technology to control irrigation. Until then, we can use the current technology to establish our own automated irrigation decisions. I often like to think about two or three simple questions before I choose to irrigate. Specific questions and thresholds center around soil moisture data, turf canopy conditions, and future precipitation forecasts. Certain criteria must be met before the irrigation is turned on which has achieved significant water savings while maintaining turfgrass quality. As my research nears an end, I think it is time to schedule that service on my fuel level sensor.

K-State’s Sodcast: Interview with Ted Wilbur, Co-Owner of Sod Shops

Posted on by Jack Fry

The is the first edition of “K-State’s Sodcast,” which is a short interview with an individual to hear information about their involvement in the turf profession.  Several of these will be put together each year.  In this interview, Ted Wilbur, co-owner of Sod Shops in Wichita, KS, provides an overview of his experience in sod production.  These interviews are done to highlight professionals who have been supportive of K-State, not to advertise their accomplishments or their business.  I’d like to acknowledge the help of Gerry Snyder with K-State’s Division of Information Technology for helping put this together.

CLICK HERE TO WATCH!  (about 7 minutes long)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seeding after Herbicide Application

Posted on by Jack Fry

By Daniele McFadden (recent M.S. graduate at K-State)

With spring in full swing many of you are taking advantage of the warm soil temperatures and overseeding turf areas. Often times we can mistakenly coincide our spring-time herbicide applications with seeding cool-season turf. So, are your new seedlings going to mature and develop if this happens? Research was done over the last two years to evaluate how several herbicides affect the emergence and growth of tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass when seeded after application.  Following are some takeaways from these experiments.

The good:

  • When dandelions and other common broadleaves start to appear, a standard three-way postemergence broadleaf product containing 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba (numerous trade names) is often applied. In both the field and greenhouse, we found that seeding tall fescue into an area treated with this herbicide combination was safe on the seedlings, and was comparable to tall fescue growth in areas where the herbicide wasn’t applied.
  • Other combination products used for control of broadleaf weeds were found safe on tall fescue seedlings when seeding was done 0 to 14 days after herbicide application. These herbicides included:
    • Carfentrazone-ethyl + MCPP + 2,4-D + dicamba (SpeedZone)
    • Fluroxypyr + halauxifen-methyl + 2,4-D (GameOn)
    • Triclopyr + pyraflufen-ethyl + 2,4-D + dicamba (4-Speed XT)

The bad:

  • Playing catch-up with yellow nutsedge control? Applying halosulfuron-methyl (Sedgehammer and other trade names) in late summer or early fall for the control of nutsedge could affect your tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings if seeding occurs within two weeks of application. Both cool-season grasses emerged in the field with mild chlorotic symptoms that went away within 8 weeks after seeding. However, a closer look at root development showed that seeding tall fescue into soil treated with halosulfuron-methyl significantly stunted development. The Sedgehammer label guidelines clearly state that a four-week delay after application is needed.  Plan your nutsedge control earlier in the summer so it does not interfere with early fall seeding.

The ugly:

  • Did you accidentally apply a preemergence herbicide for crabgrass control before seeding? You might be wasting your seed. Our studies found that seeding tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass into an area treated with dithiopyr (Dimension) greatly inhibited growth of the seedlings.

Bottom line – reading the label to learn how soon seeding can be done after herbicide application is critical. Labels on some of these products indicate that seeding should be done after a longer interval has passed after application compared to what was observed as required in this research.  Seeding guidelines on labels must be followed; that said, research results from this project provide useful information to herbicide manufacturers and turf managers who may unknowingly seed into herbicide-treated areas.

Evaluating emergence of tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass when seeded 0 to 14 days after herbicide application in Manhattan, KS.

These research results will soon appear in greater detail in K-State’s 2021 Turfgrass Research Research Report.

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

 

How Did Warm-Season Grasses Fare This Winter?

Posted on by Jack Fry
Green up of Latitude 36 bermuda in mid-April in the Wichita area.

After severe cold, warm-season grasses have responded well and are generally experiencing good green up this spring.  I have had no information regarding winter injury on bermudagrass or zoysiagrass.  If you noticed any significant injury this spring, please reach out to me – I’d like to know.  Air temperatures were very cold throughout the state between February 6 and 19th, reaching a low of -18 F in the eastern part of the state and in the Wichita area.  There were differences in snow cover, however, and that can impact the level of insulation provided to the grasses.  The lowest soil temperature at a 2-inch depth at the Olathe Horticulture Center was 29 F on February 15th.  Winter injury becomes a greater concern if turfgrass crowns are elevated above the soil in thatch, or if there is no snow cover at all during extreme cold.  The Wichita area had several inches of snow on the ground when the extreme cold occurred.  I recently visited a new sports complex on which Latitude 36 bermudagrass was sodded late last summer, and no play occurred on the fields last year.  Green up of those fields is looking very good (see picture above).  Likewise, Northbridge and Latitude 36 bermudagrass in the Kansas City area have greened up well this spring.  I have noticed some slow green up on an area of Riviera bermuda (seeded type) at our research center.  Good green up of warm-season grasses may be due the fact that grasses were at the peak of acclimation (defined as the plant being physiologically prepared to tolerate extreme cold) when the cold temperatures arrived.  There is greater risk of injury if grasses are not fully acclimated.  This could occur with a late fall freeze, or when a short period of warmth in winter or early spring leads to some deacclimation (loss of tolerance), and then severe cold temperatures return when a front passes through.

 

Don’t Moss with Me

Posted on by Jack Fry

Silvery thread moss has been an increasing problem on golf course putting greens over the past couple of decades.  Moss is a bryophyte, and that makes it different from most plants.  It doesn’t have roots, but rather rhizoids that serve as an anchor, but aren’t as efficient at absorbing water and nutrients compared to roots.  It also grows across a wide range of temperatures.  It can be actively growing when creeping bentgrass or annual bluegrass appears dormant in late fall or early spring.  It can also experience severe drought for months (or years), and regrow once water returns; no other weeds we deal with in turf are that resilient.  Research was done on silvery thread moss over several years at K-State by graduate students Dr. Cole Thompson (now Director of Research for the USGA) and Dr. Zane Raudenbush (Dr. Raudenbush just left The Ohio State University to join Davey Tree Company).  Here are some things to know regarding how management of putting greens will influence moss that came from their research:

Things that make it happier:

  • Mowing lower promotes more moss encroachment. For example, research showed that mowing at 0.125 in vs. 0.157 in resulted in greater moss populations.
  • Areas that are thin are susceptible to moss encroachment, so maintain turf density.
  • Moss loves water. If you’re watering frequently, you’ll favor its growth.
  • Soluble nitrogen applied as a liquid on a frequent interval (spoon feeding) encourages the growth of moss.

Things that help suppress it:

  • Mow higher and maintain turf density.
  • Water less frequently while still meeting the needs of the turf.
  • Fertilize with granular products that allow slower N release.
  • Core aerify, verticut, and topdress. Although some may think they could spread moss with cultivation, research has shown that moss populations can be reduced by these practices, which is due in part because the moss colonies are disturbed and allow creeping bentgrass to occupy those areas.
  • Apply products for moss suppression. The most popular product used for this is Quicksilver, which contains the active ingredient carfentrazone-ethyl and is labeled for use on greens.  Follow the label on Quicksilver for effective moss suppression (don’t expect complete control); using this or other products labeled for moss in combination with aforementioned cultural practices will be the best approach.

Here are some useful resources on moss:

An article on the K-State webpage that give more information on moss biology and control:  https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/moss_2015.pdf

A video by Dr. Zane Raudebush, former K-State graduate student who conducted research on moss here and as a faculty member at The Ohio State University:  https://www.turfnet.com/turfnet-tv.html/winfieldtv/raudenbush_silvery_thread_moss/

A summary of the research Dr. Raudenbush did at K-State in Golf Course Management magazine:  https://www.turfnet.com/turfnettv.html/winfieldtv/raudenbush_silvery_thread_moss/

Some specifics regarding N fertilization and moss:

https://www.golfdom.com/nitrogen-fertilization-and-silvery-thread-moss/

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow the K-State Turf and Landscape Team on Twitter @KSUTurf

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

 

 

Nonchemical Weed Control Methods for Landscape Beds

Posted on by Brooke Garcia

By Dr. Cheryl Boyer

Dr. Chris Marble at the University of Florida is a weed management whiz. He’s a machine with research and writing and a kind friend and teammate of mine from graduate school at Auburn University. Naturally, I’m pretty excited and proud to see a paper he has authored published. I’m going to kick off my series of posts for the K-State Turf and Landscape Blog by reviewing some of his journal articles with clarity on which practices apply to Kansas and which may not (since they have a few different weeds in Florida).

First up is the first in a two-part review of weed control practices for landscape planting beds. We all know that fighting weeds is a significant part of work in both landscape and turf worlds. Chemicals vary for both of those applications, and we’ll get into that next time. For now, nonchemical weed control is where we’ll start. What comes to mind? If you’re thinking mulching and hand weeding, you’d be right. However, some best practices may impact other weed management choices and hopefully result in reduced herbicide application.

Types of nonchemical weed control:

Type Example Pros Cons
Mechanical disruption Mowing, hand-pulling, hoeing, tilling Depending on the application, it may be the most aesthetically pleasing approach. Time-consuming, labor-intensive, disrupts soil structure, may propagate weeds.
Physical barriers Geotextiles, landscape films, or fabrics In combination with mulch, it can be very effective Reapplication required, material may be destroyed by weeds growing on top of the fabric, does not contribute to soil health, in Kansas wind can be problematic
Cultural control Mulching, plant selection, fertilization and irrigation placement, thermal treatment Great for soil health (organic mulches), aesthetically pleasing, reasonable weed control when applied at least 3-inches deep Mulch type matters, reapplication, and scouting required, inorganic mulches do not contribute to soil health, and rubber mulch leaches zinc and other heavy metals into the soil.

 

Mulching is the A-#1 best choice for nonchemical weed control the average landscape bed. However, material selection is essential. For organic mulches, stick with large chunky (coarse) pine bark or pine needles and apply it at least 3-inches deep. Hardwood bark can be acceptable, but some species (and it’s not always easy to know which species is in the product you’re purchasing) have allelopathic chemicals which could damage ornamental plants. Fine-textured materials like compost and screened bark may encourage weed growth, so avoid those materials or refuse to accept a bark load that is too fine if you plan to use it for landscape mulch. These materials do break down over time which is good for soil health but requires reapplication.

Inorganic mulches are not ideal. They’re expensive, generally heavy, difficult to apply (and challenging to remove), and do not break down over time to contribute to soil health. Rock mulches, in particular, may bounce heat back up into the canopy of ornamental plantings, contributing to plant decline. Rubber mulches leach zinc and other heavy metals into the soil, which can also harm plants. I do not recommend inorganic mulches.

Now let’s address landscape fabric, geotextiles, etc. I don’t recommend plastic material because research has documented that water, air, and nutrients can’t get down to the soil, so ornamental plants don’t have access to the elements of life. While landscape fabric can be adequately effective, it is not usually so because weeds grow on top and through if not appropriately managed. Mulch cannot degrade into the soil (enhancing soil health and facilitating the mulch material staying in place). That’s an important point in Kansas, where the wind often whips loose mulch away from planting beds, particularly if landscape fabric is applied underneath. At that point, the landscape fabric is often unsightly, flapping in the wind with no mulch to hold it down (unless the “mulch” is rock). Landscape fabric is only effective for a short period of time and does not control perennial weeds. There may be some applications where landscape fabrics make sense, but I don’t recommend it in general.

Plant selection: we’re talking about perennial groundcovers now. If they grow densely enough and don’t die back to the ground during the winter, they may shade out some weeds. Of the studies mentioned in Dr. Marble’s review article, the ones that grow well in Kansas include:

  • Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis): 1 to 1.5 feet tall, 1.5 to 2.5 feet wide, June bloomer, full sun to part shade (can handle almost full shade, particularly in the afternoon), tolerates rabbit and deer. May be an aggressive self-seeder, remove spent flowers to avoid spreading too much.
  • Catmint (Nepeta xfaassenii): 1 to 2 feet tall, 1.5 to 3 feet wide, blooms all summer, full sun to part shade, tolerates deer, dry soil, and shallow, rocky soil. Sterile.
  • Moss phlox (Phlox subulata): up to 0.5 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide, flowers March to May, full sun, attracts butterflies, tolerates deer, drought, erosion. Need good drainage.
  • Goldenrod (Solidago sphacelata): 1 to 1.5 feet tall and wide, flowers in the fall, attracts butterflies, tolerates deer, drought, erosion, clay soil, dry soil, and shallow-rocky soil. Can colonize through rhizomes and self-seeding (needs deadheading to manage).
  • Sheep’s burr (Acaena inermis ‘Purpurea’): 1 to 2 feet wide, 1.5 to 3 feet wide, blooms June to August, prefers full sun and dry soil (low maintenance), tolerates deer, drought, and shallow-rocky soil.

Of course, we have to think carefully about using plant choice as a nonchemical weed suppression tool because some plants can become invasive (Liriope spicata, for example). Be aware of the Kansas noxious and invasive weed lists; you can find them here: https://agriculture.ks.gov/divisions-programs/plant-protect-weed-control/noxious-weed-control-program. Side note: did you know we have Kudzu in Kansas? It’s true, sadly. Kudzu is an interesting plant, but that is a story for another day.

Hand weeding and cultivation are always an option, although labor-intensive (and thus costly). Without other control measures, weeds will likely pop up again quickly.

Here’s a fun one: Thermal weed control. That’s right, steam, hot water, flame from a propane burner, or solarization. Thermal weed control has limited applications because you need to be careful about the areas around where you use the tool. Ideally, the use of these tools will be centered on hardscapes and other non-planted areas to eliminate large perennial and grass weeds. Solarization is a long-term process where plastic is used to cover areas for an extended amount of time to kill weeds and weed seeds. It requires reapplication and could damage nearby ornamentals or other tools like hoses or irrigation heads. These are likely not your best choices for nonchemical weed control and additionally can be dangerous. Use these as a last resort, get training, read manuals, and BE CAREFUL!

Lastly, consider fertilizer and irrigation placement. In container-grown nursery crop settings, weed pressure can be reduced when fertilizer is dibbled or banded within the container substrate profile. Fertilizer placement makes a lot of sense because if Nitrogen is easy to access, weeds will go to town (and your ornamentals may starve). Interestingly, sub-irrigation in container studies can be adequate for weed control. However, studies of sub-irrigation in landscape beds have proven it to be an ineffective practice for managing weeds.

These choices depend a great deal on the project, application, and client tolerance for weeds. The best approach is likely to apply various weed control methods, which may include chemical controls for the longest-lasting effect. We’ll cover those next time.

Marble, S.C., A.K. Koeser, and G. Hasing. 2015. A review of weed control practices in landscape planting beds: Part I—Nonchemical weed control methods. HortScience 50(6):851-856. https://doi.org/10.21273/HORTSCI.50.6.851

Department of HNR Professor Receives National Educator of the Year Award

Posted on by Brooke Garcia

By Brooke Garcia

For those of you who are familiar with K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources, you are most likely familiar with and know the infamous Dr. Cathie Lavis. Her passion for teaching students is unsurpassed, as she is dedicated to the art and science of horticulture. Lavis was named the 2021 Educator of the Year at the virtual National Collegiate Landscape Competition, hosted by the National Association of Landscape Professionals (NALP).

This award honors university faculty for excellence in teaching and mentoring students, while also serving the landscape industry at the national level. The competition attracts thousands of students, faculty and industry leaders each March. K-State horticulture students actively participate each year, and students partake in a variety of competitions to gain hands-on experience.

Read the K-State Today Announcement here: https://www.k-state.edu/today/announcement/?id=73882