Kansas State University

search

K-State Turf and Landscape Blog

Mimosa Webworm Causing Noticeable Damage

By Dr. Raymond Cloyd, Professor and Extension Specialist

Mimosa webworm, Homadaula anisocentra, larvae or caterpillars are causing noticeable damage to honey locust, Gleditsia triacanthos, and mimosa, Albizia julibrissin, trees throughout Kansas.

The caterpillars are 1/2 of an inch (12.7 millimeters) long when full grown (Figure 1) and move backward rapidly when disturbed. The caterpillars web leaves together on the ends of branches (Figure 2).

Caterpillars create webs near the tops of trees, which protects them from natural enemies (parasitoids and predators) and insecticide spray applications. Trees heavily infested with mimosa webworm are brown or scorched in appearance (Figure 3).

The caterpillars eventually depart from trees using a silken strand before pupating. Mimosa webworm pupates in bark crevices or the pupae are attached to structures (e.g. buildings). There are two generations per year in Kansas.

It is too late to apply an insecticide this time of year when trees are heavily infested with webbing because the caterpillars are protected from insecticide spray applications inside the leaf webbing. However, next year, you can manage mimosa webworm caterpillars by applying an insecticide when the caterpillars are initially present and exposed to insecticide spray applications. You can use insecticides that contain the following active ingredients: Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki, spinosad, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and permethrin. Read the label of each product to ensure that “webworms” are listed. Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki and spinosad are stomach poisons so mimosa webworm caterpillars must ingest the spray solution on the leaf surface in order to be killed. High volume spray applications should be used so that the insecticide contacts the caterpillars or there are residues on the leaf surface. If feasible, selective pruning quickly removes isolated or localized mimosa webworm infestations.

Don’t forget to register for the Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day in Manhattan on August 1!

Please register BY July 24 if you plan to attend the Field Day!

The Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day will be held Thursday, August 1 at the Rocky Ford Turf Research Center (1700 Barnes Rd.) in Manhattan.

The field day program is designed for all segments of the turf & ornamentals industry – lawn care, athletic fields, golf courses, landscape, nursery, and grounds maintenance.  Included on the program are research presentations, problem diagnosis, commercial exhibitors, and equipment displays.  There will be time to see current research, talk to the experts and get answers to your questions.

The tour qualifies for 1 hour of both 3A & 3B Pesticide recertification credits as well as .25 GCSAA education points.

You can find more information about each tour and how to register at: https://www.k-state.edu/turf/events/index.html

Round-Up Herbicide(s) No Longer Just Contain Glyphosate

For many years, Round-Up herbicide was recognized as a non-selective herbicide that contained glyphosate and was used to take out all vegetation.  Round-Up is now sold as multiple different products containing many different combinations of herbicides.  The University of Tennessee team recently composed a document that provides details on Round-Up.  All should pay close attention to active ingredients contained within each Round-Up herbicide now sold.

Details from Tennessee here:

UPDATE ON ROUND-UP BRANDED HERBICIDES FOR CONSUMERS

Extreme Heat Precautions and Safety Tips

Heat is one the leading causes of weather-related deaths and injuries in the United States and it’s hitting higher temps here in Kansas. Excessive heat causes hundreds of deaths every year. Heat can affect people in a variety of settings and while dangerous heat is associated with the summer season, it can occur in the spring and fall as well.

The risk

When exposed to high temperatures your body sweats, which evaporates to cool your body. Hot and humid weather challenges your body’s ability to cool itself because your body sweats a great deal to try to maintain your body temperature. Over time this increased sweating leads to dehydration and your body temperature becomes elevated.

Increased levels of humidity make this worse as the high water content of the air hampers the evaporation of sweat on your skin. This can result in heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Those most at risk for heat illness include infants, children, the elderly, overweight people and those who are ill or have certain medical conditions such as high blood pressure.

Heat exhaustion

Heat exhaustion is a mild form of heat illness that may develop after days of exposure to high temperatures and inadequate fluid intake.

If not treated, heat exhaustion may become heat stroke. A person suffering from heat exhaustion may have cool moist skin. Their pulse rate will be fast and weak and their breathing will be fast and shallow. Additional warning signs of heat exhaustion include:

  • Heavy sweating
  • Paleness
  • Muscle cramps
  • Tiredness
  • Weakness
  • Dizziness
  • Headache
  • Nausea or vomiting
  • Fainting

Heat exhaustion first aid

  • Drink cool beverages without alcohol or caffeine.
  • Move to an air-conditioned environment.
  • Take a cool shower, bath or apply cold compresses.
  • Rest

Heat stroke

Heat stroke is the most serious of heat-related illnesses. It occurs when the body is unable to cool itself because the ability to sweat fails. A victim’s body temperature will rapidly rise within a few minutes. Heat stroke can cause death or permanent injury if it is not treated quickly. Warning signs of heat stroke vary but can include:

  • An extremely high body temperature — above 103 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Red, hot and dry skin without sweating.
  • Rapid, strong pulse.
  • Throbbing headache.
  • Dizziness.
  • Nausea.
  • Confusion.
  • Unconsciousness

Heat stroke first aid

  • Call 911 immediately. Untreated heat stroke may result in death or disability.
  • Move the victim to a shady and/or air-conditioned area.
  • Cool the victim rapidly using whatever means available such as a cool shower or bath, garden hose, or sponging with cool water.

Prevention

Like many hazards, there are steps you can take to avoid becoming a victim of heat illnesses:

  • Drink lots of water and avoid alcohol and caffeine.
  • Limit strenuous outdoor activities.
  • Wear light colored, light weight clothing.
  • Use sunscreen.
  • Take breaks in the shade as often as possible.
  • If working in the heat, increase workloads gradually. Allow new employees and workers who have been off for more than a week more frequent breaks.
  • Change your schedule so outdoor work is performed early or very late in the day.
  • NEVER leave kids or pets in vehicles.
  • Check on the elderly, sick and those without air conditioning.
  • Be aware of the symptoms of heat illness and take action if you see someone at risk.

Resources
OSHA has employer and worker information and resources to help prevent heat illness. Visit https://www.osha.gov/heat

Sources

2024 Resources for Turfgrass Disease and Weed Control

 

 

 

 

 

Two separate documents have been released that are quite helpful for those needing specific information related to turf disease control and weed control.  Chemical Control of Turfgrass Diseases 2024 was recently released by Univ. of Kentucky, Rutgers Univ., and the Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison.  This is a cost-free document which you can access by clicking on the above link.

 

 

 

 

 

In addition, a new release for weed control was recently put out:  Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals 2024 EditionPurdue University leads the changes in this weed information and over the years contributions have been made by those at universities in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas (K-State), Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin.  The link above will take you to access to this document which requires a low-cost purchase.  You can also find this available at the check-in table at the K-State Turf and Landscape Conference in December, 2024.

Wet Spring will Likely Lead to Quick Drought Response as Summer Approaches

By Jack Fry, Professor and Commercial Turf Extension Specialist

It’s been a wet spring through much of Kansas.  In Olathe, KS there has been 11.3 inches from March 1 to June 10.  Frequent rainfall reduces the necessity for grasses to produce deeper roots, and also enhances more shoot growth.  As summer approaches and an extended period of time without rainfall occurs, drought stress will be occurring more rapidly that it sometimes has.

Uniform irrigation is important so that water is distributed nicely over a lawn, golf course, sports field, or other area.  In addition, you can estimate the amount of water that has been lost from the turf over time, which is called evapotranspiration (ET).  Evapotranspiration includes water evaporation from the soil and transpiration from the leaves.  Here is a site from Kansas State University that provides weather information and allows you to determine the level of ET that has occurred:

https://mesonet.k-state.edu/

You can click on the location near you on the KS map when this website comes up.  Then, go to the upper left corner of mesonet (click on the 3 lateral bars) and select any information desired.  To determine water use, go to weather – historical weather – enter the dates that are of interest for you.  After doing so, click submit and you’ll see weather details returned.  On the far right of the image, click on grass ET and you’ll see an estimate of ET for that area.  Here’s an example of the ET that I looked at for Olathe, KS:

The ET that you see is based upon a formula called Penman-Monteith, which uses temperature, humidity, solar radiation, and wind to create the estimate.  As a reminder, the ET that you view is based upon assumption that the soil moisture is high.  In other words, as soil dries down in a turf area, the ET is likely going to be lower than estimated on this site.  That said, this information is useful to provide guidance on the amount of irrigation that may be needed to apply to the turf area. To confirm the amount of water applied from your irrigation system, use a sprinkler gauge that indicates the amount of water applied for a given amount of time.

Deeper, less frequent irrigation will enhance rooting as time progresses.   To do this, you may desire to wait until you begin to see wilt occurring on the turf.  As an alternative, you can determine what the soil moisture measurement is when wilt is just beginning and irrigate just prior to that soil moisture level.  As summer heats up and less rainfall begins, it is quite likely that following this strategy will still require irrigation be applied often due avoid extensive wilt.  It is possible that over time, irrigation frequency can be reduced.

There are number of different research articles below that demonstrate all turf species can get enhanced rooting with a deeper, less frequent irrigation strategy.

Tall Fescue:

Huang, B. and J. Fu.  2001.  Growth and physiological responses of tall fescue to soil surface drying.  Intl. Turfgrass Soc. 9:291-296.

Fu, J., J. Fry, B. Huang.  Tall fescue rooting as affected by deficit irrigation.  HortScience 42:688–691. 2007.

Creeping Bentgrass:

Fu, J., P. Dernoeden.  2009.  Creeping bentgrass turf response to two summer irrigation practices: rooting and soil temperature. Crop Sci. 49:1063-1070.

Jordan, J.E., R. H. White, D.M. Vietor, T.C. Hale, J.C. Thomas, and M.C. Engelke.   2003.  Effect of irrigation frequency on turf quality, shoot density, and root length density of five bentgrass cultivars.  Crop Sci. 43:282-287.

Zoysiagrass:

Qian Y. and J. Fry.  1996.  Irrigation affects zoysiagrass rooting and plant water status.  HortScience 31:234-237

Above is the photo from the zoysiagrass research noted above in 1996 (a number of years ago). The zoysia on the left had been irrigated daily for an extended period of time and then water was turned off.  On the right, zoysia had been irrigated deeply and infrequently (based upon ET measurement) and then water was turned off.  Obviously, the deeper, infrequent irrigation enhanced its tolerant to drought.

Mulch Rings Around Trees in Turfgrass

By Cody Domenghini, Assistant Professor, Landscape Management

A mulch ring is a circular border surrounding a tree commonly made of organic material such as wood chips. Trees planted in turfgrass should have mulch rings installed around them for a couple of reasons. Creating a mulch boundary around trees prevents lawn maintenance equipment such as string trimmers and mowers from getting too close to the trunk and causing damage. When grass is allowed to grow right up to the trunk the tree roots are in competition with the turfgrass for water and nutrients. A mulch layer over the root zone eliminates this conflict.

Ideally, trees should be planted in a landscape bed rather than in the middle of a lawn. However, when grown in a lawn, trees should have a mulch ring at least three feet in diameter for every inch of tree trunk caliper surrounding them.

Measuring tree trunk caliper of a young tree planted in turfgrass.

The mulch should resemble the shape of a donut with the center of the ring creating a 4-6” gap between the trunk of the tree and the start of the mulch. The space between the tree trunk and the mulch ring allows oxygen and water to easily reach the roots and prevents the risk of rot at the base of the trunk.

Example of a donut shaped mulch ring with the mulch not touching the tree trunk.
Volcano mulching

Avoid the common mistake of “volcano mulching”. Layer the mulch 2-4” deep. Throughout the year the mulch will breakdown, contributing organic matter to the soil and improving soil quality. Mulch should be reapplied annually. When adding a tree ring to an already established tree in a lawn, carefully remove the sod from the top few inches to not damage any tree roots.

Adding a mulch ring to an established tree.

Mulch rings for large trees should be large enough to create a barrier between the edge of the turfgrass and the trunk of the tree to prevent damage to the trunk from mowing equipment, but do not necessarily have to follow the size guidelines advised for younger trees. Adding tree rings and mulch around trees is best done in the spring, but can be completed anytime of the year.

Below is a link to an extension article discussing the proper way to mulch trees.

https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/trees-shrubs/how-to-mulch-trees.html

Join us at the 2024 Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day

Come join us at Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day, held Thursday, August 1, 2024.

Held at Rocky Ford Turf Research Center, 1700 Barnes Rd, Manhattan, KS, this program is designed for all segments of the turf and ornamentals industry – lawn care, athletic fields, golf courses, landscape, nursery, and grounds maintenance.

Included on the program are research presentations, problem diagnosis, commercial exhibits and equipment displays. There will be time to see current research, talk to experts, and get the answers to your questions.

The tour qualifies for one hour of pesticide recertification credit in both 3A and 3B are available, as well as .25 GCSAA education points.

You can find more information about each tour and how to register at:
https://www.k-state.edu/turf/events/index.html

Please register by July 24…we hope to see you there!

If you are interested in serving as a lunch sponsor or vendor for the event, contact Christy Dipman at 785-532-6173 or cdipman@ksu.edu.

Now is the Time to Scout for Bagworms

Article derived from KSRE News Story: Now is the Time to Scout for Bagworms

Patience and persistence is key when trying to manage bagworms. Begin scouting in early May, and depending on weather conditions – through early summer.

Once caterpillars emerge, they begin feeding on the host tree or shrub, creating their protective bags. In addition to emergence over time, young bagworms can ‘blow in’ – called ‘ballooning’ – from neighboring plants on silken threads, which increases the importance of treating multiple times during the growing season. Watch both conifers and deciduous trees and shrubs. Although defoliation of deciduous trees and shrubs don’t typically affect long-term health of trees and shrubs, extreme defoliation of conifers can cause stress or kill conifers outright.

Bagworm feeding on plant foliage, photo by Raymond Cloyd

Hand removing and destroying bagworm bags is an option for smaller infestations. For larger infestations, the bag provides protection from insecticide treatments, so it’s important to apply applications when the bagworms are young. Apply insecticides weekly when young bagworms are present, up to 5 weeks. Treat windbreaks, Christmas trees, and ornamental landscape trees as soon as bagworms are present to prevent bagworms from causing substantial plant damage. Thorough coverage is important, including penetration into the interior plant canopy and upper branches.

Bagworm bags hanging from a tree branch, photo by Raymond Cloyd

Many insecticides are labeled for bagworms, but timing of application and thorough coverage will ensure the effectiveness of insecticides in managing bagworms. When bagworm caterpillars are small (1/8 to 1/4 of an inch long), products containing Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (Btk) or spinosad as the active ingredient can be effective. These insecticides have minimal direct impact on beneficial insects compared to broad-spectrum insecticides, which could lead to outbreaks of spider mites or scale insects that can cause damage to treated trees and shrubs.

If insecticides are not applied when bagworm caterpillars are small (1/8 to 1/4 of an inch in length) then broad-spectrum insecticides, including those containing malathion, acephate, or cyfluthrin as the active ingredients can be applied. Be sure to read the product label and follow directions.

For more information on controlling bagworms, reference the publication, Bagworm: Insect Pest of Trees and Shrubs, written by Dr. Raymond Cloyd.

Importance of Turf Selection

Adapted from the K-State Turf and Landscape Problem Solver

Careful turfgrass selection is an important first step in establishing, overseeding, or renovating a turfgrass. Many potential problems related to turf use, appearance, environment, insect or disease pests, and cultural practices can be avoided by properly choosing species and cultivars that best fit the situation in which the turfgrass will be grown.  A turfgrass, when planted in areas where it is not adapted, often deteriorates or fails. The result of planting a turfgrass where it is not adapted is a poor-quality turf that requires excessive pesticide applications, fertilization, and replanting to retain a green ground cover. A high-quality turf may not be obtainable in this situation.

Consider these criteria when selecting a turfgrass:

  • Desired quality
  • Appearance – turf color, texture, density, growth habit, and uniformity
  • Use – turf purpose, e. g., athletic or play surface, lawn, erosion control
  • Pest resistance – turf resistance or tolerance to disease or insect pests
  • Culture – turf management requirements from a time and a financial view point
  • Site – turf soil and sunlight requirements compared to those of the final planting site.

Turfgrasses differ with regard to these criteria. For example, some Kentucky bluegrass cultivars form a dark emerald green turf adapted to high maintenance and light shade. This can be contrasted with buffalograss, a gray-green, low-maintenance turfgrass that performs poorly in light shade. Other differences among species and cultivars also exist regarding wear tolerance, environmental adaptation, pest resistance, and cultural requirements. Careful selection at planting time is the best way to solve potential problems in the future.

Generally, the cost of planting turfgrasses, whether from seed, sod, plugs, sprigs, or stolons, should be of minimal concern. In most normal plantings, the cost difference between poor-quality and high-quality seed or vegetative propagules is small, and the time and money spent trying to produce high-quality turf from low-quality seed or vegetative material can often become great. The long-term benefit of planting high-quality turfgrasses in appropriate conditions is a healthy, cost-effective, quality turf.

The effort and time expended selecting the right grass species, mixes, and/or blends will be well spent. Consider the site, use, desired appearance, and management the turf will receive when selecting the species combination. Then select cultivars that best fulfill the desired outcome. Often, there may be more than one “good fit” between turf species, mixes, and/or blends for the specific situation. In such cases, cost and availability may become important factors in the final decision. Plant only high-quality propagules (e. g., seed, sod, plugs). When these steps are followed and the actual turf is planted, many potential problems will be reduced, or in the best of situations, eliminated.