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Tag: tall fescue

Top Quality Tall Fescue Varieties for Kansas

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle; KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

tall fescueKansas State University and The National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP) work together to determine the best adapted tall fescue cultivars for Kansas. This standardized program coordinates uniform evaluation research trials from turfgrass selections across the United States and Canada. These research trials are conducted over many years and data is recorded throughout the duration of the experiment. Recorded data includes turfgrass quality, color, texture, density, green-up, establishment, drought tolerance, winter injury and disease/insect damage. To find out more information about NTEP go to – http://www.ntep.org.

The tall fescue varieties listed below were the top preforming varieties from 2013 and 2014 data in the 2012 National Tall Fescue Test located in Wichita, KS. The list contains only varieties that are commercially available in 2015. Varieties were selected according to the mean quality ratings from April to October. Tall fescue varieties listed were not statistically different from the top performer. Turfgrass quality ratings take into account the aesthetic and functional aspects of the turf. Turfgrass quality is based on a combination of color, density, uniformity, texture, and disease or environmental stress. Other tall fescue varieties in the evaluation trial may preform well in Kansas. Any tall fescue variety with a rating of 6 or above is considered acceptable. For the complete list of tall fescue varieties and performance data go to – http://www.ntep.org.

2013 Data

  • Hot Rod
  • GTO
  • Rhambler 2 SRP
  • Michelangelo
  • 4th Millennium
  • Faith
  • Firebird 2
  • Grande 3
  • Fayette
  • Thor
  • Maestro
  • Temple
  • Fesnova
  • Hemi
  • Black Tail
  • Avenger II
  • Firewall
  • Technique
  • Rowdy
  • Reflection
  • Falcon V
  • Foxhound
  • Leonardo
  • Rockwell
  • Firecracker SLS
  • Dynamite LS
  • Titanium 2LS
  • Terrano
  • Raptor III
  • BIZEM
  • Bullseye
  • Diablo
  • Screamer LS
  • Saltillo
  • Caesar
  • Hover
  • Catalyst
  • Kingdom
  • Frontline

2014 Data

  • Thor
  • Technique
  • Temple
  • Falcon V
  • Michelangelo
  • Rockwell
  • Black Tail
  • Avenger II
  • Terrano
  • Reflection
  • Firebird 2
  • GTO
  • Meridian
  • Rowdy
  • Maestro
  • BIZEM
  • Screamer LS
  • Titanium 2LS
  • 4th Millennium
  • Traverse 2 SRP
  • Grande 3
  • Leonardo
  • Firecracker SLS
  • Dynamite LS
  • Rhambler 2 SRP
  • Saltillo
  • Catalyst
  • Kingdom
  • Hot Rod
  • Swagger
  • Raptor III

Names appearing in this publication are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products.

Paint and Glyphosate Research Update Published in GCM

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Jared Hoyle and Jake Reeves; KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

In July’s issue of Golf Course Management Magazine on page 95,  Jake Reeves’s (KSU Turfgrass Research Technician /Graduate Assistant) and Jared Hoyle’s research was featured in the Cutting Edge section by Teresa Carson.

Take a look on page 95 and read more about “Timing effects of turf paint + glyphosate applicant on grassy weed control”

http://gcmdigital.gcsaa.org/i/532236-jul-2015

2014-2015 Research Plots at Stagg Hill Golf Course in Manhattan, KS.
2014-2015 Research Plots at Stagg Hill Golf Course in Manhattan, KS.

We repeated the research in 2014-2013 and will have the final results out soon.  The results so far demonstrate that adding turfgrass paints to dormant zoyisagrass glyphosate applications can increase gassy weed control.

 

New Tall Fescue Publication Now Online!

Posted on by jahoyle

(by Jared Hoyle; KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

The new Tall Fescue Extension Publication is now online!  You can get it under the publications tab at:

www.ksu.edu/turf

or directly at this link!

http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/mf736.pdf

TF

 

 

The Art of Knowing Your Seed Label

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Evan Alderman, KSU Turfgrass MS Student; Ross Braun, KSU Turfgrass PhD Student; and Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)

Do you enjoy having a nice green lawn, but didn’t have time to get your fall seeding done? Don’t fret, there is still time. Although the optimal time of year to seed cool season grass species is during the fall months, there is still time for you to get a great looking lawn for this summer. Now before you go to your local garden supply store and pick up some seed, there are several things you should take into account before making your purchase. The art of knowing your seed label begins now.

Turfgrass Species and Cultivar

seedSo you walk into your local garden supply store and you look at all of your options for potential seed you can use and you say to yourself “I really want a lush green lawn fast”. So you pick up a bag that says something along the lines of “quick establishment”, since that is what you want. Although this bag of seed sounds like a great option, you probably should check out the seed label before making this purchase. In the image is a picture of a seed bag with those claims. As you can see this bag contains 90.50% annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) and only 5.97% perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne). Now as a turfgrass scientist I can assure you that you may have a great looking lawn temporarily, but annual ryegrass should not be a long term solution. Which is why Rule #1 for the art of knowing your seed label is know what turfgrass species performs best in your area. For much of the state of Kansas, tall fescue (Lolium arundinacea) is the predominant species in most home lawns. Tall fescue is able to handle most of the drought conditions that Kansas likely endures.

Rule #2 for the art of knowing your seed labels is also knowing which species cultivars grow best in your area of the country. One of the best options for knowing which turfgrass cultivars perform best in your area is the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (www.ntep.org). On their website, there is data available for homeowners to look at from many different university studies involving different turfgrass species and cultivars. This information will help you make an informed decision on what turfgrass species and cultivar will work best for you, this is a step in the right direction for achieving that lush green lawn you are wanting.

Other Seed Label Information

Although some of the most important information on the seed label is the turfgrass species and variety, there are several other pieces of information on the label that can be helpful. Rule #3, look at the percent germination for all turfgrass species on the seed label. Just because that type of seed is on the label doesn’t mean all of it will germinate. Thus it is important to look at the germination rate, and chose a bag of seed that has a high germination percentage. Rule #4, although the bag of turf seed you are going to by mostly contains grass seed, bags of seed can also can weed seed. It is very important to look at the percentage of weed seed in your bag of seed, if that percentage is high, I would probably pass on that bag and look for another one with a lower percent of weed seed. If a seed label has 0.5% weed seed then that equals approximately 12 to 16 weeds being planted per square foot. A seed label with <0.01 weed seed is good but 0% is best. This also applies to the “other crop” section of the label. Lastly, Rule #5, consider the seed testing date on the seed label. As with anything, turfgrass seed can get old, this will highly effect the germination percentage from that bag of seed. It is recommended to use newer seed and avoid anything over one year past the testing date.

Utilizing these five rules will help you make an informed decision for planting a lush green lawn this spring.

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.

Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf

Tree Leaves and Turfgrass

Posted on by jahoyle

(by Ward Upham, KSU Research and Extension)

It’s that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it’s a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants.

Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter. There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won’t shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.

You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves and have a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway). If you have a warm-season lawn, you can still use this technique but wait to fertilize and core-aerate until next late May or early June. (Ward Upham)

Cool-season turfgrass seeding deadline nears

Posted on by jahoyle

(By Ward Upham and Jared Hoyle, KSU Research and Extension)

September is the best month to reseed cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. However, you can get by with an early to mid-October planting for tall fescue. October 15 is generally considered the last day for safely planting or overseeding a tall fescue lawn in the fall. If you do attempt a late seeding, take special care not to allow plants to dry out.  Anything that slows growth will make it less likely that plants will mature enough to survive the winter.

Seedings done after the cut-off date can be successful, but the success rate goes down the later the planting date. Late plantings that fail are usually not killed by cold temperatures but rather desiccation. The freezing and thawing of soils heave poorly rooted grass plants out of the ground, which then dry and die. Keeping plants watered will help maximize root growth before freezing weather arrives.

Already thinking about re-seeding? Choose the right cultivars!

Posted on by jahoyle

(by Ward Upham and Jared Hoyle, KSU Research and Extension)

Though several cool-season grasses are grown in Kansas, tall fescue is considered the best adapted and is recommended for home lawns. The cultivar K-31 is the old standby and has been used for years. However, there is a myriad of newer cultivars that have improved color, density and a finer leaf texture. Most of these newer varieties are very close to one another in quality.  Each year the National Turfgrass Evaluation Trial rates tall fescue varieties for color, greenup, quality and texture. Quality ratings are taken once a month from March through October. K-31 consistently rates at the bottom. The recommended cultivars were 3rd Millennium, Braveheart, Bullseye, Catalyst, Cochise, Corona, Escalade, Faith, Falcon V, Firecracker, Firenza, Jamboree, LS 1200, Monet, Mustang, Raptor II, Rhambler SRP, RK5, Shenandoah III, Shenandoah Elite, Sidewinder, Spyder LS, Talladega, Turbo and Wolfpack II. There are a number of other cultivars that did not make this list but should do well in Kansas. Go to http://ntep.org/data/tf06/tf06_12-10f/tf0612ft04.txt . Any variety with a mean rating of 6.0 or above should be fine. K-31 has a rating of 4.1. Keep in mind that mixes of several varieties may allow you to take advantage of differing strengths. It is not necessary for mixes to contain only the varieties mentioned above.  Though K-31 may still be a good choice for large, open areas, the new cultivars will give better performance for those who desire a high-quality turf.

Though Kentucky bluegrass is not as heat and drought tolerant as tall fescue and the warm-season grasses, it is commonly used in northeastern Kansas, where there is sufficient annual rainfall. It is also grown under irrigation in northwestern Kansas where the higher elevation allows for cooler summer night temperatures. The following cultivars have performed well compared to other bluegrasses in this region. Use this list as a guide. Omission does not necessarily mean that a cultivar will not perform well. Recommended cultivars for high-quality lawns, where visual appearance is the prime concern, include Alexa II, Aura, Award, Bewitched, Barrister, Belissimo, Beyond, Diva, Everest, Everglade, Excursion, Ginney II, Granite, Impact, Midnight, NuChicago, NuGlade, NuDestiny, Rhapsody, Rhythm, Rugby, Skye, Solar Eclipse, STR 2485, Sudden Impact, Washington and Zifandel. Such lawns should receive 4 to 5 pounds nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year and would typically be irrigated during dry periods to prevent drought stress.  Cultivars that do relatively well under a low-maintenance program with limited watering often differ from those that do well under higher inputs. Good choices for low maintenance include Baron, Baronie, Caliber, Canterbury, Dragon, Eagleton, Envicta, Kenblue, North Star, and South Dakota. Instead of the 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, low-maintenance program would include 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Obviously, a low-input lawn will not be as attractive as a higher-input lawn, but you can expect the cultivars listed above to look fairly good in the spring and fall, while going dormant in the summer.

Is this brown patch?

Posted on by kennelly

(Megan Kennelly, KSU Plant Pathology)

Whew, it’s hot out there. We are coming up on August which is usually the peak stress time for our cool-season turfgrasses. Tall fescue lawns can start tanking this time of year, and I get a lot of samples, emails, and phone calls about brown patch.

Is this brown patch in tall fescue? What do you think? How would you figure it out?

 

So – how can you tell if it is brown patch or something else? In tall fescue, brown patch makes pretty characteristic lesions. Look for this in the areas showing decline. You might have an easier time looking on the edge of the patches instead of in the middle. Look for tan spots with a dark halo. Here are a bunch of examples: (you can click to zoom in a little bit.)

In that first stand of turf above, it was NOT brown patch.

When thinking about environmental stress there are a lot of things to consider – water (too much, too little), drainage, fertilizer, thatch, mowing practices…Take a look at this stand of turf right here:

Compaction or fill issues: This site (above) had a lot of construction activity a year or 2 ago. Construction can mean compaction from heavy equipment, backfill with less-than-optimal (to put it diplomatically) soil, and other problems. Those factors reduce root health, and then areas with reduced root function are the first to crash out when summer stress arrives.

Poor root health – I have a low area in my yard (with heavy clay soils) where water pools during heavy rains. We haven’t had heavy rains for quite awhile, but the root systems there probably didn’t grow as well. Now, those spots are showing decline while surrounding areas are looking much better.

Thatch – As one final possibility, don’t forget about thatch. Now, tall tescue is a bunch grass (lacking laterally-spreading rhizomes and stolons) but it can still build up thatch. Plus, sometimes tall fescue is planted in a blend with Kenctucky bluegrass which is more prone to thatch.

I talked about thatch not too long ago on the Facebook page. Here is some information about thatch (click the link to view).

Thatch-info

So, don’t assume you’ve got brown patch. There are plenty of other problems (even more than I listed here) that affect the health of tall fescue in summertime.