Damage from white grubs has begun. A Kansas City-area golf course exhibited significant damage to Meyer zoysia from white grubs (predominantly southern masked chaffer) in late June. It may seem earlier than normal, but if populations are high it can happen. Grubs include southern masked chaffer, Japanese Beetle, and others. Learn more about grubs and their control in an article by Dr. Raymond Cloyd by clicking HERE.
(By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)
In the summer time we typically see dead spots in turf due to many factors but one of those could be annual white grubs. The annual white grub is one of the most common grub pests in Kansas. Masked chafers emerge from the soil around mid June in Kansas then after mating they deposit eggs back into the soil. They then grow and develop in the soil and mature around September. This is when we typically see damage in turf, once the grubs are large. But if we can get them before they get big the easier it is to control.
For control measures, you can apply it preventatively or as a rescue treatment (after you have already seen damage.
Preventative controls should be applied during that time when the grubs are mating and laying eggs. This is typically in June/July time frame. Using a preventative insecticide gives you greater flexibility. Products for preventative applications contain the systemic active ingredients; imidacloprid, chlorantraniliprole, clothianidin, thiamethoxam and halofenozide. For a complete list of chemicals go here;
https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2635.pdf
Rescue treatments are “wait-and-see” if you have grubs type of application. If you have grubs you can easily pull up the turf like carpet because all the roots are gone and you also might see skunk, raccoon and bird damage where they have tried to eat the grubs. Rescue treatments consist of carbaryl and trichlorfon.
For more information check out the link above!
Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!
***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***
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(By Jared Hoyle; KSU Turfgrass Research and Extension)
“Spring is just right around the corner!” Yeah, right… I think immediately right after I typed that a winter weather advisory went into effect for Manhattan. It seems like spring will never make it but don’t let it catch you off guard. Right now is a good time to start planning your lawn calendar for the year.
In one of the latest Horticulture Newsletters, KSU Horticulture Extension Associate, Ward Upham, outlined a calendar for cool-season grasses. This is a good outline that you can modify to fit your home lawn.
Lawn Calendar for Cool-Season Grasses
The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime.
March
Spot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.
April
Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed.
May
Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you receive enough rainfall that your turf normally doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.
June through Mid-July
Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. It must be watered in before it becomes active.
Late-July through August
If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs and may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.
September
Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer.
November
Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigate within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products!
Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!!
***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State University.***
Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @KSUTurf.
Also, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/KSUTurf
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