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Extension Entomology

Category: Household

How to Avoid Being “Bitten” by Mosquitoes

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Raymond Cloyd — Horticultural Entomology

 

        Female mosquitoes (Figure 1) are out-and-about biting people outdoors to obtain a blood meal for reproduction (egg laying). The three primary strategies that should be implemented to avoid mosquito bites are: 1) source reduction, 2) personal protection, and 3) insecticides.

Figure 1. Mosquito Sucking Blood (Inverse)

1) Source Reduction

Eliminate all mosquito-breeding sites to reduce mosquito populations by removing stagnant or standing water from items or areas that may collect water, such as the following:

 

* Wheelbarrows

* Pet food or water dishes

* Saucers/dishes underneath flowerpots

* Empty buckets

* Tires

* Toys

* Wading pools

* Birdbaths

* Ditches

* Equipment

* In addition, check gutters regularly to ensure they are draining properly and are not

collecting water

 

2) Personal Protection

Protect yourself from mosquito bites by avoiding being outdoors during dawn or dusk when most mosquitoes are active. Repellents containing the following active ingredients: DEET (Figures 2 and 3) or picaridin (Figure 4) can be used. DEET, in general, provides up to 10 hours of protection whereas picaridin provides up to 8 hours of protection. A product with a higher percent of active ingredient will result in longer residual activity or repellency. For children, do not use any more than 30% active ingredient. In addition, do not use repellents on infants less than two months old. Clothing can be sprayed with DEET or permethrin, which is a pyrethroid-based insecticide. However, be sure to wash clothing separately afterward. Before applying any repellent, always read the product label carefully.

Figure 2. DEET Repellents (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Figure 3. DEET Repellents (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Figure 4. Repellent with Picaridin (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

 

3) Insecticides

There are several products that may applied to stationary ponds, such as Mosquito Dunks and/or Mosquito Bits (Figure 5). Both contain the active ingredient, Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis, a bacterium that is ingested by mosquito larvae resulting in death. The bacterium only kills mosquito larvae with no direct effects to fish or other vertebrates. It is important to avoid making area-wide applications of contact insecticides because these are generally not effective, and may potentially kill many more beneficial insects and pollinators (e.g. bees) than mosquitoes.

Figure 5. Mosquito Dunks and Mosquito Bits (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

 

What Does Not Work Against Mosquitoes 

The following items are not effective in managing mosquito populations:

* Mosquito repellent plants (citronella plants)

* Bug zappers

* Electronic emitters

* Light traps/carbon dioxide traps.

 

If anyone has questions or comments regarding mosquito management, please contact your county extension office or Department of Entomology at Kansas State University (Manhattan, KS). For additional information on mosquitoes, I recommend the following publication:

Ortler, Brett. 2014. The Mosquito Book: An Entertaining, Fact-filled Look at the
Dreaded Pesky Bloodsuckers. Adventure Publications, Inc., Cambridge, MN.

 

Finding developing flea larvae in your home

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Dr. Cassandra Olds, Livestock and Veterinary Entomology

While many of us are familiar with identifying adult fleas, we may be less familiar with what juvenile fleas look like (Figure 1).

). Fleas are holometabolous insects having an egg, larval, pupal and adult stage. Most flea species have three larval instars, which are white in appearance, increasing in size with each molt (Figure 2).

Flea larvae feed on organic matter present in dark, humid environments including animal bedding and carpeting. Cannibalism is common in fleas with larger individuals feeding on younger, smaller individuals. In some species, adults will produce dried blood rich fecal pellets called flea dirt; this provides further nourishment for growing larvae. Most dog and cat flea products kill adult fleas as well as preventing larvae from reaching the adult stage by regulating growth processes. Washing animal bedding as well as vacuuming often will also remove developing flea larvae.

Be an Insect Detective

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Frannie Miller — Pesticide Safety & IPM Coordinator

This week I got the opportunity to visit a community garden to view the beautiful flowers and try to obtain some images of insects. It occurred to me that as an entomologist I often need to be a bit of a detective to discover who is feeding on what plant. It is possible to be deceived if we don’t take the time to take a closer look!

 

At first glance the Black Eyed Susan’s appeared to have a fuzzy web like appearance making a person think of a disease, but upon closer inspection I could tell they had been fed on by an insect. The image illustrates what I was seeing in the landscape. The leaves appeared fuzzy because something had skeletonized the leaves and left behind their frass, which is characteristic of some type of caterpillar.

Caterpillar Feeding

 

Upon closer inspection, I was able to find the culprits feeding on the plants in groups as shown in the second image. It is important to remember that the larval stage can be difficult to identify as there are not as many identification guides available. In this case, I determined them to be Variegated Checkerspot caterpillars.

Checkerspot Caterpillars

Since caterpillars can be vary host specific sometimes what type of plant they are found on will give you a clue as to what they are! I recommend using a notebook or your phone to take notes of where the insect was found, on what type of plant, and to make a note of any identifying features. A magnifying glass may help you be able to identify key characteristics. The camera on your phone can be used to take a clear photo, which can then be identified later. An image can be worth a thousand words and is a lot easier to identify from than a description. Just some items to think about as you explore the outdoors this summer.

Bagworms

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Dr. Raymond Cloyd — Horticultural Entomology

Now is the time to be looking for bagworms. Although the cool weather we experienced this spring may have slowed development, and consequently larvae emerging (eclosing) from eggs, bagworm caterpillars are going to be present throughout Kansas feeding on broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs. Therefore, be prepared to take action against bagworms once they are observed on plants. Bagworms are primarily a pest of conifers; however, they feed on a wide-range of host plants including many broadleaf plants, such as; elm, flowering plum, hackberry, honey locust, linden, maple, oak, rose, sycamore, and wild cherry. It is important to apply insecticides when bagworms are approximately 1/4 inch long or less (Figure 1) to maximize effectiveness of insecticide applications and subsequently reduce plant damage.

Figure 1. Young Bagworm Larva Or Caterpillar Feeding On Plant Foliage (Author–Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

There are many insecticides labeled for use against bagworms; however, the insecticides that can be used now to suppress populations of bagworms are Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki and spinosad. These active ingredients are commercially available and sold under various trade names or as generic products. The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki, is only active on young caterpillars and must be consumed or ingested to be effective. Therefore, thorough coverage of all plant parts and frequent applications are required. The insecticide is sensitive to ultra-violet light degradation and rainfall, which can reduce residual activity (persistence). Spinosad is the active ingredient in several homeowner products, including: Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar, and Leafminer Spray; Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew; and Monterey Garden Insect Spray. The insecticide works by contact and ingestion; however, activity is greatest when ingested by bagworm caterpillars. The key to managing bagworms with these insecticides at this time of year is to apply them early and frequently enough to kill the highly susceptible young caterpillars feeding on plant foliage. Applying insecticides weekly for four to five weeks when bagworms are first noticed will reduce problems with bagworms later in the year.

Thorough coverage of all plant parts, especially the tops of trees and shrubs, where bagworms commonly start feeding, and frequent applications are essential in achieving sufficient suppression of bagworm populations. The reason multiple applications are required is that bagworm caterpillars do not emerge (eclose) from eggs simultaneously but emerge (eclose) over time depending on temperature. In addition, young bagworms can be ‘blown in’ (called ‘ballooning’) from neighboring plants on silken threads. If left unchecked, bagworms can cause significant damage and ruin the aesthetic quality of plants. In addition, bagworms may kill plants, especially newly transplanted small evergreens, since evergreens do not usually produce another flush of growth after being fed upon or defoliated by bagworms.

If you have any questions on how to manage bagworms in your garden or landscape contact your county horticultural agent, or university-based or state extension entomologist. You can also read the following extension publication on bagworms:

 

Cloyd, R. A. 2019. Bagworm: insect pest of trees and shrubs. Kansas State University

Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service. Kansas State University; Manhattan, KS. MF3474. 4 pgs.

http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF3474.pdf

 

 

Do you feel something tick-ling

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Cassandra Olds — Livestock and Veterinary Entomology

Encountering ticks is common during outdoor adventures here in Kansas! Many old wives’ tales exist around the best way to remove a tick including burning them, smothering them in petroleum jelly or painting them with nail polish. Here we give you the safest and best way to remove ticks!

 

Ticks that have not attached to your skin pose no risk, just remove the tick and dispose of it by wrapping it in paper towel and flushing down the toilet or placing it in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Once you notice a tick that is attached to your skin, remove it as soon as possible. The sooner you remove the tick, the lower your risk of contracting a tick-borne illness. There are many tools available for purchase online, but your fingers or a pair of tweezers work just as well. Using your tweezers (or your thumb and index finger) grab the tick as close to the skin as possible. Pull away from the skin with constant pressure avoiding repeated jerks, twists and pulls. Once the tick is removed, wash the area with soap and water or apply topical disinfectant. Put the removed tick in some rubbing alcohol or in a Ziploc bag placed in the freezer to kill it. We recommend keeping the tick specimen for a few weeks until you are sure that you have not contracted a tick-borne pathogen. If you begin to feel unwell (flu-like symptoms) you can take the tick with you to the doctor for proper identification and if need be, testing. Make a note of when and where the tick was found. Fun fact, sometimes when you remove a tick there is a clear/white hard substance on the tick mouthpart. People sometimes think this is their skin, in fact this is the tick cement cone! This cone is made up of proteins secreted from the tick salivary gland and is there to anchor the tick into the bite site.

 

Keep the tick in the freezer or some rubbing alcohol for 2 weeks.

European Elm Flea Weevil

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Raymond Cloyd — Horticultural Entomology

We are seeing damage on elm, Ulmus spp., trees caused by larvae of the European elm flea weevil, Orchestes alni. The larvae are approximately 4 mm (0.16 inches) in length, cream-colored, legless, wrinkled in appearance (Figures 1 and 2)

Figure 1. European elm flea weevil larva (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Figure 2. Close-up of European elm flea weevil larva (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

and located in leaf mines. Adults, which will be present later in the growing season, are 3 mm (0.11 inches) long, red-brown, with black spots or markings on the abdomen (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Adult European elm flea weevil (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Their chewing mouthparts are located on the end of a snout-shaped structure that protrudes from the head. The hind legs are thickened and enlarged, which allows the adults to jump when disturbed. Adults are initially active

in May, and after mating, females lay eggs in the large mid-veins of new leaves. Larvae emerge (eclose) from eggs and tunnel through the leaf as they feed, creating serpentine-like mines that enlarge as larvae mature (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Serpentine mines created by European elm flea weevil larvae (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

). Larvae eventually transition into a pupal stage, and then adults emerge (eclose) from May through June. Adults primarily feed on leaf undersides creating small holes on young leaves (Figure 5).

Figure 5. European elm flea weevil adult feeding damage (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Feeding damage caused by larvae and adults will not kill an elm tree; however, extensive feeding damage may ruin the aesthetic appearance. Adults overwinter under loose bark and in leaf litter located under previously infested elm trees. There is one generation per year in Kansas. Nearly all elm species are susceptible to feeding by the European elm flea weevil; especially Siberian elms (Ulmus pumila) and certain elm hybrids with Asian parentage.

European elm flea weevil management involves keeping elm trees healthy by implementing proper watering, mulching, and pruning practices. Insecticides may be used to minimize damage; however, insecticides may be difficult to apply to large elm trees. Contact insecticides should be applied from May through June to suppress adult European elm flea weevil populations. Always read the insecticide label carefully to ensure that “weevils” are listed. Thorough coverage of leaf undersides is important because adults tend to feed on the undersides of elm leaves. If damage is not extensive, especially on large elm trees, then there is no reason to apply insecticides. In most cases, the application of an insecticide is not warranted or the insecticide application will be too late to negatively affect the European elm flea weevil population.

                For more information regarding European elm flea weevil management, contact your county extension agent or state extension specialist.

 

Pine Needle Scale

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Dr. Raymond Cloyd — Horticultural Entomology

 

Vanhoutte spirea, Spiraea x vanhouttei, plants are blooming (Figure 1), which means the first generation of pine needle scale, Chionaspis pinifoliae, nymphs (crawlers) are active and you need to “take action” now to prevent an infestation on pine trees or shrubs.

Figure 1. Vanhoutte spirea, Spiraea x vanhouttei, in full-bloom (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Biology

 

Pine needle scale females are approximately 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) long and white with an orange portion that tapers on one end (Figures 2 and 3). Males are 1/25 inch (1.0 mm) long and white with a rectangular covering. Males develop into winged individuals that mate with females and then die. Mated females produce a white, waxy covering, which provides protection from exposure to insecticide spray applications. Females lay (oviposit) red eggs underneath the protective covering and then die. Each female pine needle scale can produce up to 100 eggs.

 

Figure 2. Pine needle scale females on pine needles (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

 

Figure 3. Close-up of pine needle scale female (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

 

Red nymphs (crawlers) emerge (eclose) from the eggs and crawl out from under the dead female covering. First generation nymphs emerge over a two to three week period in spring and feed on the current or previous year’s pine needle growth. Second generation nymphs of pine needle scale emerge in summer. First-instar nymphs are flat and red, and after molting, second-instar nymphs are yellow to light-orange (Figure 4). After six to eight weeks, pine needle nymphs become mature adults. Pine needle scale nymphs may be dispersed by wind or carried by birds to new locations where the nymphs can infest other pine trees. In addition, pine needle scale nymphs may move onto branches of adjacent trees that are touching. Pine needle scale overwinters as red eggs underneath the covering of dead females. There are two generations per year in Kansas.

Figure 4. Pine needle scale nymphs (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

 

Damage

 

Pine needle scales withdraw plant fluids from the inner tissues or mesophyll layer of pine needles using their piercing-sucking mouthparts. Feeding can cause pine needles to turn yellow and fall from trees. Pine needle scale infestations typically start on the lower branches. Pine needle scale feeding can reduce the growth and vigor of pine trees or shrubs in landscapes. Heavy infestations of mature pine needle scale appear as white flecks on needles (Figure 5). Since the pine needle scale is a hard or armored scale there is no honeydew, which is a clear, sticky liquid produced by soft scales.

Figure 5. Pine needle scales feeding on needles (Raymond Cloyd, KSU)

Management

 

Scout pine trees and shrubs weekly in spring to detect the presence of pine needle scale red nymphs. Double-sided sticky tape wrapped around branches captures red nymphs, which will help time insecticide applications or high-pressure water sprays. Check the tape weekly from spring through summer using a 10- to 16-power hand lens to look for the red nymphs. You can also attach a white sheet of paper to a clipboard and place under a branch that is shaken. Any red nymphs dislodged from the shaken branch may be seen crawling on the paper.

Branches heavily infested with pine needle scale should be pruned out and removed from the area. In addition, pine trees or shrubs in landscapes that are heavily infested with pine needle scale should be cut at the base, just above the soil line, and removed from the area.

High pressure water sprays can be used to dislodge (remove) the red nymphs from pine trees and shrubs, and are less harmful to beneficial insects. Pine needle scale nymphs do not have a waxy, protective covering, so they are easier to kill with contact insecticides. Contact insecticides such as horticultural oils (mineral-based) should be applied when the nymphs are active in spring and summer, which will help reduce pine needle scale infestations later in the growing season. Insecticide applications targeting the first-generation of nymphs should be made when Vanhoutte spirea, Spiraea x vanhouttei, plants are in flower…right now! Insecticide applications and high pressure water sprays should be conducted every seven to 10 days to kill or dislodge the nymphs that emerge from underneath the dead female covering over a two to three week period. Needles and branches should be thoroughly covered with insecticide applications or high pressure water sprays to effectively suppress pine needle scale populations. Pine needle scale is a hard or armored scale, therefore, systemic insecticides applied to the soil will not protect pine trees and shrubs from infestations.

 

 

For more information on pine needle scale, consult the following extension publication:

 

Cloyd, R. A. April 2021. Pine needle scale: insect pest of pine trees (MF3563)

https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF3563.pdf

 

March Flies causing concern in Southwest Kansas

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–by Anthony Zukoff–Southwest Research & Extension Center

March Flies (Bibio sp.) have begun emerging in large numbers in some areas of southwest Kansas.  The synchronous nature of adult emergence in spring draws attention and concern as thousands of adults can show up almost overnight on structures and in cropland.  These congregations of small (~6 mm), large-eyed flies are mating swarms and generally will be short lived as adults survive only a few days to a week.  Another name for these flies is “Lovebug” since males and females will attach themselves at the end of their abdomens and remain like that at all times even while flying.  After mating, females will excavate a small chamber in the soil, lay eggs and then die in the same chamber.  Just as the adults congregate, so do the larvae.  Dense pockets of hundreds of larvae can sometimes be unearthed. These larvae generally are detritivores, feeding on dead vegetation and other organic matter in the upper portion of the soil.  However, some species are known to feed on living plant roots and are considered pests of various cereal, forage and vegetable crops.   In 1891, entomologist Vernon L. Kellogg wrote of a new Bibionid fly emerging in large numbers in many wheat fields of seven western Kansas counties during the last week of April.

 

The large swarms of flies concerned farmers, but no evidence of damage by the flies was ever detected despite a large number of larvae being found in the soil weeks previous to adult emergence.  Kellogg stated that the adults disappeared “suddenly and simultaneously”.  Despite a large number of flies being detected in wheat and alfalfa this year, no unusual damage to these crops has been noted and the mating swarms should vanish in the coming week.

 

Stable flies emerging as spring temperatures rise

Posted on by Sharon Schroll

–Dr. Cassandra Olds

Stable flies (Stomoxys calcitrans) are starting to emerge with the start of spring; you might even have seen a few around already! Stable flies are distinguishable by four black stripes on the thorax, black checkered spots on the abdomen and large, protruding mouthpart (Figure 1).

 

 

These flies are a common pest feeding primarily on cattle and horses but can also target other livestock species, pets (especially dogs) and humans. Both male and female adult flies are obligate blood feeders and their painful bite and feeding causes significant annoyance and blood loss. Stable flies can negatively affect cattle average daily weight gain, milk production and feeding efficiency. Each fly feeds once or twice a day for between two and five minutes each time. Stable flies are routinely found on the legs or underside of large animals such as horses and cattle, on dogs and small ruminants however, they are generally found around the head area. When not feeding, adult flies can be found resting on building surfaces or vegetation.

 

Sustainable stable fly control is best achieved through an integrated approach. In her lifetime, a single adult female can lay between 500 and 1000 eggs. Limiting resources available for egg laying and larvae development, especially in the spring and summer months is essential. Stable fly larvae develop in decaying plant matter, particularly those contaminated with animal waste. Hay bales are a great breeding site for stable flies (Figure 2),

 

elevating hay and straw off the ground when feeding animals prevents manure and urine contamination. Periodically clear feed storage and animal feeding areas of spilled hay, straw and feed. Large bales for herd feeding are especially able to promote fly populations, be sure to inspect and clean these areas regularly. Separate animal watering from feeding areas and protect stored feeds from weather and water runoff. For areas where straw bedding is used, frequently replace the bedding, spreading decomposing waste in thin layers, which allows waste to dry faster and be less attractive to female stable flies. Composting manure increases heat and dries out material making the environment inhospitable for developing fly larvae. If you have to store manure waste in piles, attempt to keep as little fibrous plant material/feed as possible in the pile. Insect growth regulators fed to animals as feed-throughs inhibit stable fly development during the pupal stage reducing adult fly numbers and are a great addition to an integrated pest management program. Adult stable flies can be controlled through insecticide application with both pyrethroid and organophosphate products being effective although resistance to both is increasing. For more information on specific products to use, search the VetPestX website for specific product information (https://www.veterinaryentomology.org/vetpestx).