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Tag: planting trees

Fall is for Planting

By Jason Griffin, Professor and Extension Specialist, John C. Pair Horticultural Center Director

We’ve all heard it and probably repeated it. But why is this slogan so common-place, and is it accurate…Is Fall really a good time to plant?

First, there is the emotional side. As summer fades away and yields to cooler temperatures, more frequent rain events, and beautiful fall colors; it just feels like the right time to plant a new tree or shrub.

Second, there is the economic side. Many nurseries offer fall specials on their inventory. The simple truth is that any plant that does not sell, has to be moved and stored for overwinter survival. This involves labor, consumes valuable space, and uses mulch or plastic to protect the plants from freezing winter temperatures. Nurseries would prefer to sell plants rather than store them.

Last, there is the plant side. Is fall a good time to plant a new tree or shrub? Yes, and here is why. The primary job of a newly planted tree or shrub is to grow roots for survival. New roots are necessary for balled and burlapped plants to replace the ones lost during the harvest process at the nursery. If it’s a container plant, new roots are necessary to explore the soil and find nutrients and moisture necessary for long term survival. For the first year of a new plant’s life, it’s all about the roots!

So why plant in Fall? Woody plants have two primary seasons for growing roots, and it’s NOT winter or summer. Frozen soil and slow metabolism prevent much root growth in during winter in cold regions of the country. Frequent droughty conditions combined with searing summer temperatures limits root growth during a hot summer. In Kansas we have both. Most root growth on woody plants occurs during spring and fall in the temperate region.

Trees planted in spring have only a few weeks of peak root growth before Mother Nature unleashes the environmental stresses that come with summer weather. However, trees planted in fall have the long fall and early winter season to grow roots before they go dormant. As the soil warms in spring, they get another season of root growth prior to the stress of summer in Kansas. Fall planted trees, therefore, have the advantage of two full seasons of root growth before summer drought and heat strike. It’s not too late. As long as the soil isn’t frozen at your planting site, you can still get plants in the ground. So is spring a bad time to plant? No, spring is a great time to plant. Those trees just need a little more TLC during that first summer than fall planted trees.

Happy planting!

10 Rules for Planting Trees This Spring

By Brooke Garcia

This article was originally posted on March 18, 2021 on K-State Research and Extension News. For original article, please visit: Ten rules for planting trees this spring

Ten rules for planting trees this spring 

K-State horticulture expert shares tips to set you up for success

MANHATTAN, Kan. – If you’re planning to plant a tree in your yard this spring, there are some steps you can take to make sure your new landscape has its best chance of success.

Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham shares the following ten rules for planting trees:

  1. Select the right tree for the site. To avoid serious problems, choose trees that are adapted to your location. Consider whether the tree produces nuisance fruit or if there are disease-resistant varieties available. For example, there are a number of crabapple varieties that are resistant to apple scab and rust diseases. Also consider the mature size of a tree to be sure you have enough room. Ask a local nurseryman for suggestions for trees adapted to your area.
  2. Keep the tree well watered and in a shady location until planting. When moving the tree, lift it by the root ball or pot and not by the trunk.
  3. Before planting, remove all wires, labels, cords or anything else tied to the plant. If left on, they may eventually girdle the branch to which they are attached. The root flare (point where trunk and roots meet) should be visible. If it isn’t, remove enough soil or media before planting so that it is.
  4. Dig a proper hole. Make the hole deep enough so that the tree sits slightly above nursery level. Plant the tree on solid ground, not fill dirt. In other words, don’t dig the hole too deep and then add soil back to the hole before placing the tree. The width of the planting hole is very important. It should be three times the width of the root ball. Loosening the soil outside the hole so it is five times the diameter of the root ball will allow the tree to spread its roots faster. 
  5. Remove all containers from the root ball. Cut away plastic and peat pots; roll burlap and wire baskets back into the hole, cutting as much of the excess away as possible. If you can remove the wire basket without disturbing the root ball, do it. If roots have been circling around in the container, cut them and fluff them out so they do not continue growing so that they circle inside the hole and become girdling roots later in the life of the tree. 
  6. Backfill the hole with the same soil that was removed. Amendments such as peat moss likely do more harm than good. Make sure the soil that goes back is loosened – no clods or clumps. Add water as you fill to ensure good root to soil contact and prevent air pockets. There is no need to fertilize at planting. 
  7. Don’t cut back the branches of a tree after planting except those that are rubbing or damaged. The leaf buds release a hormone that encourages root growth. If the tree is cut back, the reduced number of leaf buds results in less hormone released and therefore fewer roots being formed. 
  8. Water the tree thoroughly and then once a week for the first season if there is insufficient rainfall. 
  9. Mulch around the tree. Mulch should be 2 to 4 inches deep and cover an area 2 to 3 times the diameter of the root ball. Mulching reduces competition from other plants, conserves moisture and keeps soil temperature closer to what the plants’ roots prefer.  
  10. Stake only when necessary. Trees will establish more quickly and grow faster if they are not staked. However, larger trees or those in windy locations may need to be staked the first year. Movement is necessary for the trunk to become strong. Staking should be designed to limit movement of the root ball rather than immobilize the trunk. 

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining gardens and home landscapes. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at wupham@ksu.edu, or contact your local K-State Research and Extension office.